Can someone educate me on the chimney pipe? GA vs SS? Galvanized vs Stainless? So 12 ft will be GA and only 4 ft will be SS. Assume the SS is what is exposed on roof to the outside elements?
What manufacturer are they using for the install? Those prices in general seem more expensive than they otherwise should be.
I'm also not seeing any double wall stove pipe on the princess quote.
$75 dollars for a tube of silicone???
I'd shop around for quotes at the very least.
What manufacturer are they using for the install? Those prices in general seem more expensive than they otherwise should be.
I'm also not seeing any double wall stove pipe on the princess quote.
$75 dollars for a tube of silicone???
I'd shop around for quotes at the very least.
Also, because of the clearance on the existing chimney, the installer said double wall would have to be used for the stove pipe. Not sure how much clearance stove pipe needs. Here are some recent photos after I tore the drywall out. The HVAC ductwork is getting rerouted soon.
View attachment 243580 View attachment 243581 View attachment 243582 View attachment 243583
10.5 inches is a lot, in the context of getting it away from your door. If it’s going to put the stove closer to where you want it, I’d do it.
Two 90’s is bad juju.
Lol, I don't want bad juju, just curious if anyone on here has had success with two 90's. I think I have like 20 feet of flue after that so wouldn't think drafting would be an issue but I could see sweeping might be a PITA.
Anyone had success with two 90's on their stove pipe??
With that much height, you may get away with it. I think the rule of thumb is that you subtract two feet of effective height with each 90, so if that’s half accurate, it would be like running a 16 foot straight flue. Most favor dual-45’s for offsets, in fact I have that on one of my stoves.
It is 3" of loss per 90 and 1 foot of loss in height for every 1" of horizontal runRight, but as mentioned above, two 45's would only give me 10.5" of offset. I'm looking for feet, not inches.
It is 3" of loss per 90 and 1 foot of loss in height for every 1" of horizontal run
That is asking for problems because it will slow down and cool the flue gases and will be no fun to clean. It's not a good idea, especially with a BK. Note that with a straight-up, interior install in a decently tall flue system you do not need to go up a few feet before the first 45º elbow. Though not ideal, it can start right at the stove flue collar if necessary.So for the sake of simplicity, let's say I need a horizontal run of 3 feet between the two 90's. How high would my flue and chimney need to be to avoid problems?
That is asking for problems because it will slow down and cool the flue gases and will be no fun to clean. It's not a good idea, especially with a BK. Note that with a straight-up, interior install in a decently tall flue system you do not need to go up a few feet before the first 45º elbow. Though not ideal, it can start right at the stove flue collar if necessary.
How tall will the overall flue system be from stove top to chimney cap?
It is 3" of loss per 90 and 1 foot of loss in height for every 1" of horizontal run
If you were venting out thru a wall thimble then the BK diagram recommendation is good, though I would still use 45s there instead of the 90. But you are venting straight up. I think with ~20' you will be ok taking the lower 45 much closer to the stove to increase the offset.Ok, the shop was telling me you had to go minimum 2 ft up, ideally 3, before the first elbow. I think they were going by the BK manual (see photo). From stove top to chimney cap, I'm estimating 4 ft from top of stove to ceiling box, 8 ft above that through second story bedroom floor (boxed in with chase), 2-3 ft through the attic, and then however tall the chimney needs to be for the 3-2-10 rule so maybe another 4 ft to the cap. So grand total ~19 ft.
If you were venting out thru a wall thimble then the BK diagram recommendation is good, though I would still use 45s there instead of the 90. But you are venting straight up. I think with ~20' you will be ok taking the lower 45 much closer to the stove to increase the offset.
Right now what is in there appears to be floor supported, not a ceiling chimney support. The new support should be flush or slightly below the new ceiling. You would box frame that corner to hold the chimney support so that if can be flush with the new ceiling. That will establish the clearance requirement for the chimney pipe above it which will be 2".
BK states the ideal in the manual, but as long as there is sufficient draft the stove should work ok. I think your system will have enough height to work ok. FWIW we have an offset coming right off the flue collar on our stove and it drafts well on a 20' total flue system. Yes, you can have an elbow attached right at the support box. Most 45º double-wall elbows are not adjustable.
I paid nearly 6k for a stove and install. 3500 for stove. 1000 for liner and 1000 for install. Rounding to nearest 500 there.
Keep in mind of the clearances that the stove pipe requires.... The chimney system might be 2" but the stove pipe will be more. It looks really close to the side and you may run into an issue.
Which needs 6" as long as you have that you are fineStove pipe will be double wall.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.