Last weekend, I purchased a used Jotul 3TD. The sale originated with my "Wanted to Buy" ad here at Hearth.com. So, thank you Hearth.com and thank you Carl (the seller who contacted me). Although the stove is 20 years old, it was well cared for and seems in excellent shape. I will be taking the stove to my summer/retirement home in Canada and I hope the age of the stove will not be a problem with the folks at Canadian customs. Oh well, I'll know the answer to that question in about 3 weeks.
Anyway I was reading Jotul's installation manual and had a few questions that other forum members might be able to answer. Here are the basics. The stove will be installed in a 125 year-old, 2 story, salt box home in Newfoundland. It will connect to a 40 year-old interior brick chimney. A couple of years ago, I added a 7 inch rigid stainless steel liner to this unlined chimney. The stove utilizes a 6" chimney pipe but I understand I can use a 6" to 7" adapter at the thimble.
My first questions relate to the chimney. Jotul says that "the fire clay chimney liner should measure at least 8"x8"." Is my round 7" stainless steel liner adequate? The chimney is roughly 26 feet tall. Also, Jotul says "a chimney inside the house must have at least 2" of clearance to the combustable structure" and "fire stops must be installed at the spaces where the chimney passes through floors and/or ceilings." Right now, the small pieces of ceiling joists which box in the chimney are only about 1/2" from the chimney. Do I need that 2"gap with a stainless steel liner. I'll re-do the framing and flooring, if necessary, but it will involve a fair amount of work. Also, what do I use for "fire-stopping material"? Jotul doesn't specify but, from their drawing, it looks like thin metal pieces attached to the joists. Last, in regard to the chimney, Jotul specifies an "airtight cleanout door" at the bottom of the chimney. Right now, only a loose brick blocks the cleanout. I guess that's not enough. Where do I purchase an airtight cleanout door?
Regarding floor protection, Jotul suggests "2 layers of 3/8" asbestos millboard which has a thermal conductivity (K) of less than or equal to 0.84 BTU in/ft H degree F." Now I suspect that asbestos millboard has gone the way of $2,000 cars and instructions for floor protection usualy refer to R-values. Can anyone translate these 1987 instructions into what I will need to protect a wood floor? Thank you all in advance for any help you can give me regarding any of these questions.
Chip
Anyway I was reading Jotul's installation manual and had a few questions that other forum members might be able to answer. Here are the basics. The stove will be installed in a 125 year-old, 2 story, salt box home in Newfoundland. It will connect to a 40 year-old interior brick chimney. A couple of years ago, I added a 7 inch rigid stainless steel liner to this unlined chimney. The stove utilizes a 6" chimney pipe but I understand I can use a 6" to 7" adapter at the thimble.
My first questions relate to the chimney. Jotul says that "the fire clay chimney liner should measure at least 8"x8"." Is my round 7" stainless steel liner adequate? The chimney is roughly 26 feet tall. Also, Jotul says "a chimney inside the house must have at least 2" of clearance to the combustable structure" and "fire stops must be installed at the spaces where the chimney passes through floors and/or ceilings." Right now, the small pieces of ceiling joists which box in the chimney are only about 1/2" from the chimney. Do I need that 2"gap with a stainless steel liner. I'll re-do the framing and flooring, if necessary, but it will involve a fair amount of work. Also, what do I use for "fire-stopping material"? Jotul doesn't specify but, from their drawing, it looks like thin metal pieces attached to the joists. Last, in regard to the chimney, Jotul specifies an "airtight cleanout door" at the bottom of the chimney. Right now, only a loose brick blocks the cleanout. I guess that's not enough. Where do I purchase an airtight cleanout door?
Regarding floor protection, Jotul suggests "2 layers of 3/8" asbestos millboard which has a thermal conductivity (K) of less than or equal to 0.84 BTU in/ft H degree F." Now I suspect that asbestos millboard has gone the way of $2,000 cars and instructions for floor protection usualy refer to R-values. Can anyone translate these 1987 instructions into what I will need to protect a wood floor? Thank you all in advance for any help you can give me regarding any of these questions.
Chip
