installing a chimney and clearance reduction system?

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sapratt

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
May 14, 2008
397
Northwestern, Oh
Ok I have 2 questions.

1. The chimney is going to be installed in the next month or two. I know someone who is a plumber and he say they install chimneys and he could do it fo a cheaper price than anyone else. Should I have him put the chimney or should I hire someone who specailizes in chimneys?

2. Where I'm going to install the stove there will be 20in of clearance on each side and 3ft in the back of the stove. I've been reading about clearance reduction systems. My plan is to take the dry wall out and put 1in of sheet rock against the studs. Then have a 1in gap for ventalation and then use brick. Now I've been reading that sheet metal offers the same protection as brick. My next question is does the sheet metal and 1in gap protect the wall the same as brick and 1in gap? I know that it's the air movement in the gap is what keeps the wall cool. But to me it seems like the sheet metal will get hot then make the wall hot.
 
1. I'd go with a specialist (we're talking fire here)
2. Sheetmetal stays relatively cool (I used stainless)

[Hearth.com] installing a chimney and clearance reduction system?
 
Metal works great, no need to put 1" sheetrock behind the wallshield. The normal 1/2" or 5/8" sheetrock that is already on the wall is fine. It's the wallshield and the ventilated 1" space behind it that is keeping the wall cool.

What's the stove? Is this for a pre-EPA model? As far as the flue goes, I'd want references from similar installations before trying the plumber. He may be fine, but a lot of plumbers charge more than carpenters or chimneysweeps, so something seems a little odd, no?
 
Its a Fisher stove, yes pre EPA. I want this stove install right thats why I asked about the chimney. I wasn't sure if the plumber though cheaper, would have the knowledge
to safely install a chimney. I think I may use sheet metal then. It looks alot nicer than I thought it would.
 
It can be painted with high-temp stove or barbecue paint too. Have the sheetmetal shop hem (fold over) the top edge for a more finished look. And remember to leave a 1" gap at the bottom so that air can freely circulate behind the wall shield.
 
My little workshop stove. Back wall of the hearth brickwork behind the stove is vented along the bottom and spaced 1" from the drywall. Does the same job...but the air space is absolutely essential in either case, as it's the real insulation/convection heat transfer feature. Rick
 

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