Installing my own Pellet insert

[bshatto]

I plan on installing my own Pellet insert into my existing fireplace with masonry lined chimney. I plan on running an exhaust and fresh air pipe up the existing chimney and mounting them through a plate at the top that seals off the existing chimney opening. I've heard it’s a good idea to also install a plate just above the existing fireplace damper which the two new pipes would go through and then insulate behind the plate. What type of insulation should be used? Is this a safety issue? Or is this a comfort issue?

I'm new to this forum and talking about Hearth issues so forgive me if I've used incorrect terminology.

 

[bshatto]

Since my original post I poked around the Hearth Wiki and found a how-to article on manufacturing a "Block-off" plate. I should have checked there first I guess.
Thanks.

 

[Xena]

Fwiw, my free standing stove is installed the same way
but imo with this install you don't need a block off plate since the plate at
the top blocks out all cold air and anything else from coming down the chimney.

 

[Xena]

Whatever man. All I'm saying is no problems with mine done this way,
and the OP is installing an insert which blocks off the fireplace anyhow.

 

[defield]

I have a Lopi Leyden installed in front of my fireplace ( stove shop install) .

4" stainless to the top of the chimney with a sealed rain cap.

Fiberglass insulation batts where the stainless pipe goes through the fireplace damper to seal that area.

I also have a removable heavy gauge sheet metal fireplace opening cover, that is not airtight, behind the stove covering the fireplace opening. ( More for looks than anything.)

Debated long and hard about an OAK. Was going to install one that would draw outside air from the fireplace cleanout ( via the basement), but the Lopi runs great without it. ( Both the stove shop owner and the installation crew said the lopi should be fine without it. Other brands of stoves they WOULD recommend an OAK.)

 

[bshatto]

Hey "old ranger"
I'm also concidering the Lopi Leyden in the fireplace opening. Do you have, or would you post a picture of your install?
I'd love to see how it was done.

 

[defield]

bshatto,

I do not own a digital camera, but can describe the installation.

We selected the Lopi Leyden for many reasons, but looks and quality were important. The stove looks much like the Vermont Castings Vigilant wood stove we used to have there and liked very much.

The fireplace is moderate in size, 59" wide overall and 46 1/2 " from floor to the underside of the stained wood mantle. Built with typical New England faded red brick. The fireplace opening is 36" wide and 31" to the top center of a slightly arched opening.

The mass of the fireplace and the Lopi are in the proper proportion for good looks.

The fireplace hearth itself is the width of the fireplace and protrudes only 16 1/2 inches, so an extension was needed. A hardwood floor goes up to the front and each side of the hearth.

I wanted the back of the stove to be 2" to 3" out from the face of the fireplace for ease of maintenance and access to the cleanout tee. Ended up being 2-3/4 inches out. Just right.

Made a cardboard template with the outline of the stove as well as the back, side, and front clearances drawn on it. From that template, I could determine the size hearth extension that was needed.

The hearth extension ended up extending out two full bricks ( with 1/2 inch mortar joints), or about 17" from the edge of the existing hearth. Did not go the full width of the existing hearth, just nine bricks wide . . . . .just looked right . . . . .

I purchased and cut to size, 1/2" Durock cement board for the base of the hearth extension, and laid it on top of the existing hardwood floor, held in place with stainless deck screws. Was able to find, after searching the brick yard warehouse, bricks of the correct thickness and color. Laid the bricks using standard spacing with Thinset cement to hold them in place on the cement board. When dry, used regular mortar mix to carefully fill all the mortar joints. looks like a regular brick hearth.

We had had a sheet metal fireplace opening cover made some years ago ( by a stove shop ) to use to seal the fireplace opening after a fireplace fire to prevent heat loss after having a fire. Once the Lopi was in place, I cut a clearance slot in the sheet metal cover, using a fine metal cutting blade in a HD jigsaw to fit around the exhaust piping.

This panel painted with high temperature flat black, slides down behind the stove, covers the fireplace opening, and conceals the exhaust piping.

We are very happy with the looks of the stove set up and maintenance will be easier than with an insert.

It is not uncommon, in New England anyway, to have a wood stove installed in front of a fireplace ( for efficiency) and the classic good looks of the Lopi leyden make it a natural.

Hope this helps in lieu of a photo.

 

[bshatto]

Old Ranger,

Thanks for the great description. I can picture it.
If I choose to install a Leyden, instead of an insert, I'd like to set it back into the fireplace opening to avoid a hearth extension.

Other than access to the "Tee" for cleaning what problems do you think could result from this type of installation?
Is there much heat that radiates from the sides of the Leyden that might be reflected back to the stove? Or does most of the heat get blown out of the vent at the front.

 

[defield]

bshatto,

I also was considering setting the Lopi into the fireplace opening some inches. ( Guess I was remembering the wood stove sticking out and the only possible consideration, not to do it, that the stove shop person gave is the location of the control panel - more on that below.)

The vast majority of the heat does come out of the front heat tubes. Little heat is generated to the sides and top ( unlike a wood stove).

There is no reason why the free standing Lopi cannot be set into the opening some inches, but there are a few other things to consider .

The control panel is on the left side of the stove. The back edge of the panel is 4 1/2 inches from the back edge of the stove. Once you get your settings the way you like them, you shouldn't need constant access, but I use the panel control switch to turn off the stove for daily cleaning.

The handle on the hopper lid, when fully open for loading, comes within about 8 1/2 inches from a vertical plane extending up from the back of the stove.

The third consideration would be the location of your damper and smoke shelf within the fireplace for placement of the cleanout tee and piping.

A professional installer should check your fireplace and chimney anyway and can advise on the mechanics of the flue connections.

The Lopi is a nice stove and should make you happy no matter what your final placement decision is.

By the way, the Lopi works extremely well with a remote wired ( or wireless) thermostat.

Good luck and let us know how you make out. ( We will of course want pictures )

Ranger

 

[Nicholas440]

For my fireplace insert I took out the damper plate, and I used a sheet of cardboard, to make a template of the openinig the damper was in and I made a plate out of aluminum sheet 1/8 inch thick, and it fits into that opening. The plate has a cutout for my exhaust vent pipe and around that it is sealed with high temp silicone. Behind the plate is about 6 inches thick fiberglass insulation.

I have a plate at the top of the chimney also with a rain cap on top, so no water can come down into it. I know its not necessary but I wanted a nice tight seal on the chimney and thats why I did it that way. Most people just use a plate at the top and pack the damper area with insulation.