installing roof brackets

[Jay H]

When I found I could only just about reach the chimney flue cap from my roof, I realized I need to get a little more height (I'm only barely 5'5"), and went and found out about roof brackets. Now I need to install them and use a 2x6 as the platform. Mine has 3 slots for three nails and I know to nail them into the rafters at a max 8' spread (obviously way more than enough for my chimney sweeping duties).

I figure the extra bunch of inches will allow me to safely get my homemade chimney brush into the flue. Googling the installation procedures, I find some info but mostly on new roof construction, not existing roof modification. I have basic composite shingles in a moderately sloped roof that spills onto a deck, (not terribly far of a fall, but wouldn't want to try it).

Can I simply nail the brackets on top of the shingles once I trace the rafters from the roof edge? What is the best way to go about this.

The bracket itself is listed as galvanized steel but I'm thinking I will probably try to remove them when not in use. How do I prevent leakaage or do you think it may be better to just install it and silicone seal the nails and around the bracket and leave it?

Jay

 

[woodsman23]

You need to lift the shingles where you are placing the brackets, what i mean is lift the edge of the shingle where it adheres to the next shingle gently and nail /screw bracket under shingle. NEVER nail into the shingle on top. When your done simply remove nail/screw (much better to screw) and lay shingle back down and seal end if need be.

 

[SolarAndWood]

You might want something bigger than a 2x6. 2x10s seem about right. You can probably find folding brackets in a color that will somewhat blend in your roof. If you do this yearly, you are more than likely going to trash the shingles at some point if you don't leave them there permanently.

 

[Jay H]

Well, the roof brack has a hook on the end that will limit the FIRST board to be a 2x6. I can add almost anything on top, that will fit (it would have to fit between the flue and the roof angle. However, I don't need much in terms of height, I can kind of reach over the flue, just not safely enough for my tastes and I would prefer not to have to tippy toe it! I bought some 1/2 PVC couplings yesterday too and shorted the 10' rod sections to something around 5-6' each. That should make things easier too.

I think I should be able to leave them there, just silicone the screw holes and around the bracket. I have access to the crawlspace where the flue is at so I should be able to periodically check for any leaks. I'll just remove the boards when not in use..

Jay

 

[JustWood]

Silicon the screw holes and shove a piece of flashing up under the shingle for extra protection. The silicon when set up should hold the flashing in place.

 

[Hogwildz]

Make sure your nail/ screw the bracket under the center of the tab you lift up. Don't do it where the pic line is (slot between the tabs). I know its obvious, but have seen ti done many times.

 

[Jay H]

OK, I installed them last night.. It actually DID NOT RAIN yesterday! After a few scary moments when my drill wanted to slide off the roof, I got both brackets in. I think I may need a slightly longer 2x6' though, my scrap piece of 2x6 I was planning on using is too short. But maybe next week, I can attempt a chimney sweep. I lifted the shingles and installed the bracket with some 10d nails and siliconed the tops, then siliconed the shingle back down to the roof..

Jay

 

[SolarAndWood]

And 16s if you haven't used all the nail holes in the brackets already.

 

[Hogwildz]

10's, that aint near enough.
Ya should have used 3" screws. And I recommend against siliconing underneath. Id you need to lift those tabs back up, you may be breaking them to get them up now.
Use pressure treated if leaving the board up there, and secure the board to the roof jacks so it dont slide out or kick up if too near one end of the other.