installing through peak of metal shed

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RyanM

New Member
Sep 14, 2020
15
usa
hello I have a metal garage/shed and i have a used woodstove and 6ft of 6” duravent and cap, ive gotten a few estimates to have it installed and they are very high, many people tell me do it myself , so I would like feedback on what im thinking of doing, i was thinking i could go up interior side of wall using a tee support and. 1 or 2 wall supports and out the peak using peak flashing screwed and sealed ontop of the peak? would that be ok? im also wondering if i can use 15 or 30 degree connectors off the tee to the stove which will be offset a few feet.
Thank You
 

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Shed isnt that tall, why not to run class A chimney pipe from the stove collar through the shed roof, that way you dont need to fuss around with framing a support box or anything, the cost should be about the same, ceiling support box kit, then framing to support the kit, or just 2 extra sections of class a pipe, a flex boot to keep leaks under control and call it a day.
 
Ohhh, that was deceiving, I'd got with some uni-strut and frame out a box for a a short ceiling support box, then do the associated metal roof flashing kit. Its pretty easy once you get all the parts and you will save a little money by not buying all the lengths of class A pipe (3ft length is between $90 - $110 depending on the brand used.
Just remember for the interior side of things, if you with single wall black pipe you will need a minimum of 18" clearance all the way around the pipe, plus the stove minimum clearances (which ever is greater) double wall black pipe needs 6" clearance all the way around, but you must account for the stove clearance to.
 
Ohhh, that was deceiving, I'd got with some uni-strut and frame out a box for a a short ceiling support box, then do the associated metal roof flashing kit. Its pretty easy once you get all the parts and you will save a little money by not buying all the lengths of class A pipe (3ft length is between $90 - $110 depending on the brand used.
Just remember for the interior side of things, if you with single wall black pipe you will need a minimum of 18" clearance all the way around the pipe, plus the stove minimum clearances (which ever is greater) double wall black pipe needs 6" clearance all the way around, but you must account for the stove clearance to.
so no good on the tee support, wall support and peak flashing? i was thinking if i use that flashing and go through peak i only need 2 feet above peak so no roof supports needed and i felt like that peak flashing would do a pretty good job of keep water out vs somewhere else on roof where i think i would need 4’ of pipe and a tougher job of flashing since ive never done it.
 
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Everything being metal, the clearance to combustible measurements might be meaningless.

Myself, since this metal building probably has no eave overhang, I would probably go out the sidewall into a tee and then straight up. It’s not the best drafting setup since so much chimney is cold but I would be very happy about avoiding a roof penetration in a metal roof. They sell kits for this type of install.
 
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Everything being metal, the clearance to combustible measurements might be meaningless.

Myself, since this metal building probably has no eave overhang, I would probably go out the sidewall into a tee and then straight up. It’s not the best drafting setup since so much chimney is cold but I would be very happy about avoiding a roof penetration in a metal roof. They sell kits for this type of install.
the over hangs about 8 inches the 2 estimates i have both go out side wall
 
With a short flue system, most modern stoves will not burn right. Going out the side will introduce 2-90 turns, further reducing draft.

What stove will be used?