I have an 1100 sq.ft. ranch home with no insulation that I'm aware of in the walls. I'm tempted to tackle blowing in insulation myself. I consider myself a pretty handy person, I've replaced windows, doors, remodelled my kitchen and bath. It doesn't appear that this would be overly difficult, more time consuming and messy. The exterior is vinyl siding, so I believe the top few courses could be removed and the majority done from outside. I have a contractor coming out to give me an estimate tonight. I figure I can probably do it for a fraction of his price. My main concern is whether a DIY job will be as good as a pro. Has anyone done this and would you do it again? I think I can handle cellulose or maybe fiberglass, if I go with foam then a pro will definately get the job.
Insulating finished walls- job for DIY'er or Pro?
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Hello,
I have been blowing cellulose professionally for many yrs. Hire someone who know what they are doing. It is possible to do it yourself, but, you should do a lot of research first.
#1 You want to be sure to have dense pack cellulose not loose blown in the walls
One hole is drilled thru the subsiding (after siding is removed) about 12 inches up from the bottom plate .
A tube is inserted thru the hole up to the top plate. the cavity is filled and then the tube is withdawn 1 ft at a time untill the flow stops. 1 25 to 30 lb bag of cellulose should come just short of filling 3 wall cavities 3.5 inches deep and 16 inches wide. One cavity should take 2 to 4 mins to fill. This will be app. 3.5 lbs per cubic ft, or 1 lb per square ft.
If the tube does not go all the way to the top you need to re-drill just above the blockage.
beware of holes in the walls on the inside, behind dishwashers, and around bathtubs on exterior walls and soffits above kit cabinets.
beware of cold air returns foolishly located in exterior walls if you have hot air heat.
This can be a messy job sometimes.
Also many older homes have 3/8 drywall installed over the studs inside and brown cellotex on the outside. Sometimes These materials cannot withstand the high pressure filling process and damage is the result. Nail pops and bulging walls. A professional will be able to identify these conditions and adjust his machine to do the least amount of damage.
good luck
Mike At Albany Insulation
I have been blowing cellulose professionally for many yrs. Hire someone who know what they are doing. It is possible to do it yourself, but, you should do a lot of research first.
#1 You want to be sure to have dense pack cellulose not loose blown in the walls
One hole is drilled thru the subsiding (after siding is removed) about 12 inches up from the bottom plate .
A tube is inserted thru the hole up to the top plate. the cavity is filled and then the tube is withdawn 1 ft at a time untill the flow stops. 1 25 to 30 lb bag of cellulose should come just short of filling 3 wall cavities 3.5 inches deep and 16 inches wide. One cavity should take 2 to 4 mins to fill. This will be app. 3.5 lbs per cubic ft, or 1 lb per square ft.
If the tube does not go all the way to the top you need to re-drill just above the blockage.
beware of holes in the walls on the inside, behind dishwashers, and around bathtubs on exterior walls and soffits above kit cabinets.
beware of cold air returns foolishly located in exterior walls if you have hot air heat.
This can be a messy job sometimes.
Also many older homes have 3/8 drywall installed over the studs inside and brown cellotex on the outside. Sometimes These materials cannot withstand the high pressure filling process and damage is the result. Nail pops and bulging walls. A professional will be able to identify these conditions and adjust his machine to do the least amount of damage.
good luck
Mike At Albany Insulation
Thanks Mike. I appreciate the input. I will find out in a couple days what kind of investment I'm looking at. Heating with wood, it will take quite a while to see the return monetarily. Would you mind if I contact you once I have estimates to see if they are in line? I realize it is impossible to tell without seeing the house, but your experience may help me make an educated decision.
No problem,
This week I am on vacation in Alabama, visiting the Jack Daniels Distillary in tenn. and the space museum in ala. When you get the quotes let me know. My web site is www.albanyinsulation.com. e-mail is [email protected]. There are many good honest guys out there but beware of the scammers. With the little info you have now you should be able to weed out the bad guys.
Mike
This week I am on vacation in Alabama, visiting the Jack Daniels Distillary in tenn. and the space museum in ala. When you get the quotes let me know. My web site is www.albanyinsulation.com. e-mail is [email protected]. There are many good honest guys out there but beware of the scammers. With the little info you have now you should be able to weed out the bad guys.
Mike
bjorn773 said:
Bear in mind that while you might not see a direct bank account payback on the insulation job, it should still pay you back in terms of burning less wood to keep the same temps (or burn the same wood and stay warmer) - which is a savings in the time spent processing and handling the wood... You still get a payback, it just comes in a different form.
Gooserider
Goose, I realize that. The first contractor did not even show up. He was supposed to meet me at 6pm last night. It must be nice to be so busy to not have to worry about future business. His loss.
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