Insulation really does make a difference!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

mfglickman

Minister of Fire
Jan 17, 2012
676
NW CT
Last year, we installed an XXV and a wood stove at opposite sides of our antique cape. It was not a very cold winter, but the house was very leaky and under-insulated. Running the pellet stove low in the day and higher (65-70) at night, we were going through 2-2.5 bags per day when it was under 35 degrees or so. Still, the house struggled to maintain 65 degrees downstairs (with both stoves going full blast we could occasionally hit 68) and let's just say we could see our breath in the morning upstairs, most of the time.

Folks here told us to insulate and seal air leaks...we could only afford to blow insulation into the attic, had to defer the rest till this year....

Few weeks ago we had spray foam added to our crawlspace and rim joists. No more cold feet. And...drumroll...I run the pellet stove 24/7 (60-65 when no one's home, 70-75 when we are), and we are using....ONE bag per 24 hours.

The house still is not getting up to heat as much as we'd like, particularly not upstairs, but we're having fiberglass blown into the old walls in a few weeks and hope to see our indoor comfort temps increase.

I am simply amazed at the difference in pellet consumption. Wow. Thanks to all who advised us to do this, and wish we had done so sooner!
 
Did you have the insulation done on your dime or was it done through an energy incentive?
 
Why not foam in the walls? If they know what they're doing, I don't think they'll blow out the walls.
 
Do you have an OAK? that might help from sucking in more cold air
 
Can an oak be added to an insert like a Harman invincible?
 
Sounds great man! You cut your pellet consumption by 1.5 bags @ avg price of $ 4.00/ bag ( to make the math easy) saving $ 6.00/ day X 150 heating days = $900.00 .
I know last year was a mild winter , if it's a cold one this year you may see an increase in your current rate of a bag a day, but any way you slice it you are saving $$$$ in the long run. That insulation will pay for it self. Good job!
 
Did you have the insulation done on your dime or was it done through an energy incentive?

It is our dime, but financed through the state @2.99 for 10 years (no prepayment penalties). Figure we will save more than $60/month (our payment) in heating and A/C costs.
 
Why not foam in the walls? If they know what they're doing, I don't think they'll blow out the walls.

Nobody wanted to put foam into 1758 walls. Nobody. :) The fiberglass guy was recommended by the rim joists foam guys for this work. I questioned him pretty hard about whether it would settle etc. and he said that the way they do it now (2 holes per bay instead of the old way of 1 hole per bay) lets the air escape and allows them to completely fill the cavity. Also swears my house won't be filled with pink fluff from overspray on the leaky joints (fingers crossed on that one).

I went out the other night to take out the garbage, and could hear my husband reading to the kids, in their bedroom, on the second floor, with all the windows and doors shut. So I'm guessing there is NO insulation in those walls...poor XXV.
 
Do you have an OAK? that might help from sucking in more cold air

No, I thought OAK was for tight houses, which mine isn't, and may never be even with insulation? The people who did our energy audit thought their blower door test computer was broken, our leakage was so high...
 
we just started looking into that low interest loan thru the state also...

hoping we,ll have some nice foam in the walls before to much longer
 
No, I thought OAK was for tight houses, which mine isn't, and may never be even with insulation? The people who did our energy audit thought their blower door test computer was broken, our leakage was so high...


An OAK is for delivering combustion air directly to a fire. Every single bit of air the fire in a non OAKed stove uses comes from the outside and into the house all the while picking up those BTUs your are trying to get to heat the house with.

They are required in certain cases to prevent the stove from causing a negative pressure situation in the house or preventing an existing negative pressure situation from interfering with the proper operation of your various burning devices.

Other things to try in order to help the stove maintain your desired temperatures: http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservation/conservation.htm
 
Status
Not open for further replies.