.I much prefer the slow rising of the house temperature instead of using a higher feed rate and having the house temp race up, and overshoot the set temp. Gives the exhaust plenty of time to get hot too.A quick update: Using constant burn on level 3 and feed rate 2 with the OAK seems to be a very noticeable difference. It is burning with very little ash and slowly brings up the room to about 80 degrees (2-3 hours) in which we then shut it down.
Outside doors no longer want to open themselves.
So far so good.
I am agreeing with this. This seems to be the better way to use this stove, at least in our house.I much prefer the slow rising of the house temperature instead of using a higher feed rate and having the house temp race up, and overshoot the set temp. Gives the exhaust plenty of time to get hot too.
what was the outdoor temperature when you fired off your P43? If it stopped it was probably just a back draft?Did another full clean of the stove and exhaust today just in case I missed something last spring. It was extremely difficult to get to the exhaust fan due to the sticky creosote back there but I managed. Started it up and a few minutes later the living room was full of smoke. It seemed to take longer than usual to ignite the pellets and the pellet bowl was nearly full. Not sure where the smoke was coming from but the stove was full of it while trying to ignite.
I wrapped the exhaust pipe and added a new gasket today so I am confused where the smoke came from.
It did not set off the smoke or CO2 alarms though.
Check the fresh air air flap door. It sounds like you need to take the combustion blower blade off so you can clean it and behind. Make sure you check into the "tunnel" where the probe is. Also make sure to clean the fines compartment and the igniter cavity. Sounds like you had very poor air flow.Did another full clean of the stove and exhaust today just in case I missed something last spring. It was extremely difficult to get to the exhaust fan due to the sticky creosote back there but I managed. Started it up and a few minutes later the living room was full of smoke. It seemed to take longer than usual to ignite the pellets and the pellet bowl was nearly full. Not sure where the smoke was coming from but the stove was full of it while trying to ignite.
I wrapped the exhaust pipe and added a new gasket today so I am confused where the smoke came from.
It did not set off the smoke or CO2 alarms though.
It was 66 outside. I was starting it up for the first time to make sure everything is peachy for the wife to use. Started to see embers in the burn pot and then it started filling with smoke as it usually does. It was coming out of the rear somewhere, just slowly seeping out. Once the fire lit it was fine and it burned for two hours. We did have a little wind coming off the field in the direction of the stove's pipe. I wonder if that had an effect? My wood burner downstairs does this occasionally (smoke comes out of rear lower) until the fire is lit and then all is good.what was the outdoor temperature when you fired off your P43? If it stopped it was probably just a back draft?
Air intake was functioning. I could feel the suction from the outside vent. I actually attempted to take the combustion blower off yesterday but could not get the set screw to come out of the fan on the inside. I was able to pry it back enough to get a small tube adapter for the vacuum back there to clean the dust and hair off. One odd thing was the top screw/stud that the blower attaches to is loose and pushes in, not allowing me to get the nut back on. I had to hold it from inside the firebox so It would stay put. Not sure if those screws are supposed to be loose or are they fixed to the box? The other two were fixed and did not move. The fan in the firebox is clean though and the fines compartment was a little full and I cleaned that out. I did take apart the exhaust to fully clean it and had the probe off as well. I cleaned that with a rag and some rubbing alcohol and made sure the exhaust tunnel was clean and clear. It has a coating of creosote that is annoying me because I have to use a wrench to pry up the tab that secures the fan cover. It took a lot of strength to get it to move. Most of the internal walls are coated with creosote from last season.Check the fresh air air flap door. It sounds like you need to take the combustion blower blade off so you can clean it and behind. Make sure you check into the "tunnel" where the probe is. Also make sure to clean the fines compartment and the igniter cavity. Sounds like you had very poor air flow.
I tried to get my blower fan off last year, and could not do it. I put some wd40 on it, and will try this year with the proper ratchet. I have a spare fan cage I want to put on and clean behind the fan. I'm not sure if you have enough air vacuum in that stove. Has the vacuum check been done?It was 66 outside. I was starting it up for the first time to make sure everything is peachy for the wife to use. Started to see embers in the burn pot and then it started filling with smoke as it usually does. It was coming out of the rear somewhere, just slowly seeping out. Once the fire lit it was fine and it burned for two hours. We did have a little wind coming off the field in the direction of the stove's pipe. I wonder if that had an effect? My wood burner downstairs does this occasionally (smoke comes out of rear lower) until the fire is lit and then all is good.
Air intake was functioning. I could feel the suction from the outside vent. I actually attempted to take the combustion blower off yesterday but could not get the set screw to come out of the fan on the inside. I was able to pry it back enough to get a small tube adapter for the vacuum back there to clean the dust and hair off. One odd thing was the top screw/stud that the blower attaches to is loose and pushes in, not allowing me to get the nut back on. I had to hold it from inside the firebox so It would stay put. Not sure if those screws are supposed to be loose or are they fixed to the box? The other two were fixed and did not move. The fan in the firebox is clean though and the fines compartment was a little full and I cleaned that out. I did take apart the exhaust to fully clean it and had the probe off as well. I cleaned that with a rag and some rubbing alcohol and made sure the exhaust tunnel was clean and clear. It has a coating of creosote that is annoying me because I have to use a wrench to pry up the tab that secures the fan cover. It took a lot of strength to get it to move. Most of the internal walls are coated with creosote from last season.
I have my Serenity downstairs and there is no creosote in that thing so I am still scratching my head on this.
I was thinking that, but use Kroil. Kroil has never failed me and I live in the rust belt lol.I tried to get my blower fan off last year, and could not do it. I put some wd40 on it, and will try this year with the proper ratchet. I have a spare fan cage I want to put on and clean behind the fan. I'm not sure if you have enough air vacuum in that stove. Has the vacuum check been done?
That check is on the install manual. You will need away to measure the vacuum which is under an inch water column. I made one out of tubing.I was thinking that, but use Kroil. Kroil has never failed me and I live in the rust belt lol.
How do I do a vacuum check?
It always takes longer to light up with a totally clean burn pot.Did another full clean of the stove and exhaust today just in case I missed something last spring. It was extremely difficult to get to the exhaust fan due to the sticky creosote back there but I managed. Started it up and a few minutes later the living room was full of smoke. It seemed to take longer than usual to ignite the pellets and the pellet bowl was nearly full. Not sure where the smoke was coming from but the stove was full of it while trying to ignite.
I wrapped the exhaust pipe and added a new gasket today so I am confused where the smoke came from.
It did not set off the smoke or CO2 alarms though.
Air intake was functioning. I could feel the suction from the outside vent. I actually attempted to take the combustion blower off yesterday but could not get the set screw to come out of the fan on the inside..
66 is pretty warm. If it gets much above 50 my woodstove starts to backdraft. If the stove is cold and if there is a window open upstairs or the exhaust in the bathroom or kitchen is running mine will back draft. I have to open a window for a moment or two to get the draft going and then after the fire is going a little, I close the window down, But that's only when the stove is stone cold.It was 66 outside. I was starting it up for the first time to make sure everything is peachy for the wife to use. Started to see embers in the burn pot and then it started filling with smoke as it usually does. It was coming out of the rear somewhere, just slowly seeping out. Once the fire lit it was fine and it burned for two hours. We did have a little wind coming off the field in the direction of the stove's pipe. I wonder if that had an effect? My wood burner downstairs does this occasionally (smoke comes out of rear lower) until the fire is lit and then all is good.
Page 61 is the adapter they used on mine. I'm all 4 inch as it a basement install. I would think your blower should be sending the smoke outside unless it's building up. You can use black Hi Temp silicon to plug little leaks. My product has seals on the joints.3PVP-ADH-SC2
Is that the only option to connect Duravent 3" piping? I know there is a short and longer version of this part.
I am seeing this 3PVP-ADHB as well but I am not sure if that will work with the part that is connected to my stove. Does the p43 normally include the 3 bolt cast tailpipe piece that this would attach to? I did not install this exhaust kit so I am not sure what was included but I know it's a thick cast piece.
Started it up again for the second time while watching with a flashlight. It started up much quicker this time and the smoke was coming from the T-fitting where the horizontal attaches to the vertical. I don't know if it's possible to silicone tape this up so I may switch over to Duravent with the P43 adapter.
Fortunately my wife is the manager of TSC and gets a nice discount on that Duravent kit.
I will try something similar first and see how it goes. My wife bought a tube of high temp RTV sealant for stoves so I will run a bead on the gaps. If that fails then I will try the F4 Tape. Found this on Amazon and it is just like the silicone tape at Home Depot except much longer and way cheaper.I silicone taped the heck out of my T-connector. I just used shorter lengths of tape to do one side of the "cross", then did the other side - I didn't try to do it in one continuous piece. Is it as easy as just wrapping around a pipe? No, but it can be done.
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