insurance requires a UL boiler replacement

[kjahnz]

Yup, my insurance co. didn't like my old boiler. (pic) yup, it is around 20yrs. old. I installed it in an addition (purpose built) on my detatched garage, about 30ft. of insulated piping from my basement utility room.(pic) I am trying to choose a replacement wood boiler that will work for my system. It's not state of the art, but worked good for what I $$ I into it. I am heating about 2,000 sq.ft. with my propane fired boiler, (pic) my 2 car garage can be heated with this boiler by thermostat. (not very effecient) With my old boiler i had alot of radiant heat that would do a great job at keeping my garage warm, some times even hot (75-80) The garage loop was wired to recieve my over-fire heat (cooled the boiler down) Pretty simple, huh. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. I do not intend on building a (hot water storage type system) thanks. oops, got to resize pics first. http://www.facebook.com/toni.jahnz....923300677.1377.100000727088075&type=1&theater


http://www.facebook.com/toni.jahnz....923300677.1377.100000727088075&type=1&theater

http://www.facebook.com/toni.jahnz....923300677.1377.100000727088075&type=1&theater

http://www.facebook.com/toni.jahnz....923300677.1377.100000727088075&type=1&theater

 

[Clarkbug]

If you arent going with a storage system (which is pretty handy....) I would look at a Tarm Solo. I think the econoburn might be able to also be operated without storage.

 

[kjahnz]

I am in minnesota, so shipping could be a deal breaker. I have been looking at the EKO 40 and the Attack dpx 35. The Attack has a vertical exiting flue, more compact install in my case. A good operating (idle) feature would also work with my log home (south facing large windows) and the way logs radiate solar heat. A Royall wood boiler (#6150) is very simular to what I had, but the price is so close to what a (gasser) would be, I want to lean towards the (gasser). thanks for any info.

 

[Clarkbug]

Im not sure, but I was under the impression that the EKO and the Attack both needed storage.... Those that have them should chime in here, with a better answer.

 

[stee6043]

There is no such thing as a gasser that truly, technically "needs storage". There are threads upon threads regarding the storage topic and the pros and cons of having it. Many, if not most, boiler manufacturers will recommend storage for best performance but I'm not aware of any boiler that "requires" it. Hot water out, cold water in. Rinse, repeat.

 

[maple1]

My boiler requires storage.

 

[goosegunner]

Pretty sure the Froling and the Tarm innova require storage.

gg

 

[kjahnz]

pics.

what i have now, any suggestions for plumbing and wiring a gasser into this? Storage could come latter. thank you. I am still having a hard time loading pics.

 

[Fred61]

Im not sure, but I was under the impression that the EKO and the Attack both needed storage.... Those that have them should chime in here, with a better answer.

My EKO technically doesn't need storage but the users' heat load and solar gain may dictate the need or not for storage. In my case, I have both an extremely light load plus solar gain. A few minutes of sun will bring my living space to uncomfortable levels and the extreme insulation and mass (tile, granite, hardwood) of the home will hold the heat for several hours. If I lit or had a small fire in the boiler in the morning and the sun came out, the boiler would idle all day or until it went out. As you know, you can only build a fire so small. In order for a fire to sustain itself a log needs a friend and it must be enough to heat up the boiler enough to distribute heat which already may be too much.
I tried it for a year and it was nothing but a sticky and smelly mess. I knew when I decided to install a gasser that my load may have been too low so that's what influenced my decision to buy the EKO 25. It was the smallest gasser I could find.
I now light one new fire a day in the coldest parts of the winter and charge up my 500 gallon unpressurized storage and the heat is there if I happen to be gone for the day and don't return 'til late at night.
Those with a high heat load that can keep the boiler hot or cycle often may not "need" storage but I can"t think of a scenario where it wouldn't be more convenient to have storage.

 

[BoilerMan]

I know my Attack would produce copious amounts of tar if it were allowed to idle long. It even states in the manual that it can be used w/o storage, but the life of the boiler will be shorter, and cleaning will be more often (rough Chek translation).

I would also consider not connecting the boilers in series as you can loose alot of heat out of the Slant Fin up the chimney (if you have one).

TS

 

[kjahnz]

TS, with my old boiler, when it's aquastat reached 205 f.(forced air fan shut off at 180 f.) , my 4th zone would open and draw off the extra heat (toasty garage) it acts as my dump zone. Yes, my propane boiler's circulating pump (c2) moved the extra heat through it's self (inroute) to the garage, I'm not at all worried about the tiny bit of heat that might get lost out the chimney. Honestly, because I haven't done a good insulatation job in the propane boiler room (house utility room) I lose more heat through the pipes than I would ever lose through the chimney. OP has a pic of the propane boiler room. thanks for keeping this thread going.

 

[Gasifier]

If you are looking for inexpensive. A couple of guys around here that I know bought used gassers they found for sale. They were both H.S. Tarms. A reliable, been around a while, boiler. Might want to give craigslist and ebay a shot.

I would want to lean toward one of the newer used models. The two guys I referred to bought ones that were less than 4 years old with piping, circ. pump, and chimney for around $5000 each total. A good deal.

 

[BoilerMan]

None of the facebook links worked for me, can you upload the pics to Hearth?

TS

 

[kjahnz]

old boiler,aquastat,limit switch to shut fan off. propane fired boiler. utility room in house.
my pics needed to be resized from my camera, it takes me awhile.

 

[pelletdude]

Epmyre Wood Boilers are UL and all EPA approved. Be careful and make sure you look, some of those mentioned are not UL listed. Empyre does not require storage and there are dealers in Minn.

 

[kjahnz]

yep, since the weather has been pretty mild, lately. I have changed my plumbing from series to primary and secondary, with alot of help from my big brother. The closely spaced T's, seemed like the best retro fit for the existing floor heat(radiant). The new boiler will still be located in the garage and utilize my existing supply and return pipes(in-ground) from the old boiler(stove room). pic.

 

[EffectaBoilerUser (USA)]

Although several of the currently available wood gasification boilers are able to operate without storage (because they were designed for cycling on/off), the addition of water batteries (thermal storage) offers several advantages that have been listed.

If you talk to most who have started out without storage and then added it later, they will tell you that the storage is a very welcomed addition to the boiler system.

If you have access to used propane tanks locally you can add storage for less than a 1,000 bucks if you do the work yourself (cutting of tanks, welding of fittings, washing of tank and insulation of tank).

Good luck in your boiler search and selection and please don't hesitate to contact us for help!