intelligent air intake conformation

[stovexxx]

HI, I was evaluating a form to be applied to the start of the external air kit, in practice to reduce the violence of air entering inside the stove. I would like to know if anyone knows a shape to reduce air speed, and not necessarily the section. I reduced the section and then applied it as a hat, to contort the flow, and it doesn't look bad, but I would like to understand if there are specific shapes? I already have a damper on the flue but it's not enough.
Now the flow is improved, the sides and the top of the stove have a temperature, very close than before, and the flue is less hot, 20 percent.
Any point of view 👍

 

[begreen]

Try taping off part of the air intake at the bottom rear of the stove using metal tape.

 

[GrumpyDad]

inverse funnel
dont use plastic.

 

[stoveliker]

It is unlikely that any turbulence in your outside air system (piping) is going to affect how turbulent the air enters the firebox, because of the significant length, and quite narrow pathways inside the stove (assuming it comes in from the back and goes to the front as an airwash over the window). Any turbulence where it actually enters the firebox to be used in combustion will be from the bends an shape of the pathway inside the stove.

You can restrict the flow by decreasing the outside air entrance cross section, but other than that, I think there's no need for anything to be done, and most of what you can do will be ineffective in changing the turbulence of the air into the firebox anyway.

 

[GrumpyDad]

It is unlikely that any turbulence in your outside air system (piping) is going to affect how turbulent the air enters the firebox, because of the significant length, and quite narrow pathways inside the stove (assuming it comes in from the back and goes to the front as an airwash over the window). Any turbulence where it actually enters the firebox to be used in combustion will be from the bends an shape of the pathway inside the stove.

You can restrict the flow by decreasing the outside air entrance cross section, but other than that, I think there's no need for anything to be done, and most of what you can do will be ineffective in changing the turbulence of the air into the firebox anyway.

or just have a cat lay in front of the air intake.

 

[stovexxx]

Thanks for suggestions, I have to try close a little, under the stove👍
then I had thought a spiral, diameter like the intake tube, which should interrupt the direct flow, but still allow air to pass but more slowly, the chimney is nearly 30 feet, up to a certain point it works well but then if it starts to pull, even closing the air, the flame is torn out, I would like a quiet fire, even if there is wind

 

[stoveliker]

What matters is not the speed of the air intake, but the flux - i.e. the total amount (e.g. in kg) per unit time that enters the stove (through the cross sectional area of any piece of the system: the flux thru the inlet outside will be the same as the flux thru the airwash in your stove - conservation of mass...).

Therefore, a spiral or a piece of metal tape as begreen suggested will have the same effect: decrease the amount of air coming in. Either by decreasing the opening (tape) or by increasing the impedance to air flow (spiral), the amount of air per unit time flowing in will decrease.

Given that it makes no difference, it has no benefit to spend money on something fancy (spiral) as the piece of (noncombustible) tape will do the same.

 

[stovexxx]

I used a piece of tile to partially close under the stove, and it doesn't look bad.
Thanks to ALL

 

[stovexxx]

After a while, stove increase temp, but flue not much😌

 

[begreen]

I seem to recall this stove has a tall flue system on it. How tall is it again?

 

[stovexxx]

I seem to recall this stove has a tall flue system on it. How tall is it again?

Nearly 30 feet, I understand that flue temp should be higher ?

 

[begreen]

Nearly 30 feet, I understand that flue temp should be higher ?

Remember, temperatures here are measured in Fahrenheit, not Celsius. The stove temp should be read in one of the 4 spots on the stovetop shown in the manual. It looks like this is about 360ºC which is good. The stove likes to run between 260 and 370ºC stovetop temperature (STT). The readings on the stovepipe show the rapid heat loss in single-wall stovepipe. Part of this is due to the sloped pipe. It makes a better radiator vs a straight-up vertical pipe. The downside of this is cooler flue gases at the top of the flue system. The flue gases need to be about 120ºC exiting the chimney to keep creosote accumulation down. But remember that the internal flue gas temperature is about twice the surface reading on single-wall pipe, so the reading of 91º is more like 180ºC internally. In short, this looks ok if the heat loss does not continue to be large once the flue run goes vertically up the chimney. That said, a little hotter wouldn't hurt.

It looks like this video was done with the flue damper open. The fire does not seem too aggressive or out of control. It does not look like there is a need to restrict the air intake more.

What may be happening is that the chimney is cold and the draft is moderate until the chimney fully warms up, at which point the draft gets strong due to the chimney's height. The draft damper on the stove pipe should be able to compensate for this effect.

 

[stovexxx]

Remember, temperatures here are measured in Fahrenheit, not Celsius. The stove temp should be read in one of the 4 spots on the stovetop shown in the manual. It looks like this is about 360ºC which is good. The stove likes to run between 260 and 370ºC stovetop temperature (STT). The readings on the stovepipe show the rapid heat loss in single-wall stovepipe. Part of this is due to the sloped pipe. It makes a better radiator vs a straight-up vertical pipe. The downside of this is cooler flue gases at the top of the flue system. The flue gases need to be about 120ºC exiting the chimney to keep creosote accumulation down. But remember that the internal flue gas temperature is about twice the surface reading on single-wall pipe, so the reading of 91º is more like 180ºC internally. In short, this looks ok if the heat loss does not continue to be large once the flue run goes vertically up the chimney. That said, a little hotter wouldn't hurt.

It looks like this video was done with the flue damper open. The fire does not seem too aggressive or out of control. It does not look like there is a need to restrict the air intake more.

What may be happening is that the chimney is cold and the draft is moderate until the chimney fully warms up, at which point the draft gets strong due to the chimney's height. The draft damper on the stove pipe should be able to compensate for this effect.

120c is quite high, up there, however the flue, in the wall, and perfectly vertical, should maintain the temperature; I never thought inclined tube dissipates more heat! The fire is not aggressive because I have a restriction under the stove, and another restriction at the top of the air intake pipe, if I open the door, I have a puff of ash! The shutter is open, I don't want to use because if I forget closed, and load wood, I have smoke coming out, Anyway without restrictions under the stove, only the damper does not work completely in my case

 

[stovexxx]

seem a good result, " a tons of heat " 😂

 

[begreen]

120c is quite high,

120ºC means about 240ºC internal or 464ºF. That's not very high at all. You would be surprised at how much more heat will be lost in a tall masonry chimney. Our internal, probe flue temp runs at about 500-650ºF during the secondary burn (~316ºC).

Check out the flue at the top of the chimney. If it is pretty clean and just sooty, then the system is running cleanly.

 

[stoveliker]

This was about the 120 c at the chimney cap.

 

[begreen]

I hand the thread over.

 

[stovexxx]

120ºC means about 240ºC internal or 464ºF. That's not very high at all. You would be surprised at how much more heat will be lost in a tall masonry chimney. Our internal, probe flue temp runs at about 500-650ºF during the secondary burn (~316ºC).

Check out the flue at the top of the chimney. If it is pretty clean and just sooty, then the system is running cleanly.

This was about the 120 c at the chimney cap.

I was thinking 120 internal and not 240 I'm sure I'm much inferior, at this point double wall was needed, if I clean once a year can I compensate?

 

[begreen]

Tell/show us what the top interior of the flue looks like when cleaned.

 

[bholler]

I was thinking 120 internal and not 240 I'm sure I'm much inferior, at this point double wall was needed, if I clean once a year can I compensate?

Cleaning once a year if your temps are to low isn't going to be nearly enough. You really need to get up there and inspect the condition. And remove the foam around the chimney while you are there

 

[stovexxx]

just added this,
in my case, it works better to close the air under the stove than to play with the air lever. Now I always leave the air control, all open, and under the stove I'm finding an ideal setting, I won't have to touch the air settings anymore!

 

[bholler]

just added this,
in my case, it works better to close the air under the stove than to play with the air lever. Now I always leave the air control, all open, and under the stove I'm finding an ideal setting, I won't have to touch the air settings anymore!
View attachment 312037

But you need to have it wide open at startup to get it up to temp quickly

 

[stovexxx]

But you need to have it wide open at startup to get it up to temp quickly

that's a job I do with the side door

 

[bholler]

that's a job I do with the side door

Why are you making this so complicated? I just don't understand what your objective is honestly

 

[stovexxx]

Why are you making this so complicated? I just don't understand what your objective is honestly

Right. Because with the normal lever of air, the fire always has turbulence, (in my case) with normal damper I don't solve, with this valve under the stove the fire is more peaceful, of course I'm monitoring the flue and stove temperatures. Other than that, it seems like I don't have to constantly adjust air, the fire begins to grow but never with turbulence, and the draft starts to decrease automatically after the flames are exhausted, moreover, even with the wind, I have no turbulence