Intrepid II Model 1308??

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Rob From Wisconsin

Minister of Fire
Nov 20, 2005
531
East-Central Wisconsin
From what I understand, this unit was made in the early to mid 90's.
Any major differences from today's Intrepid II??
More reliable???

As usual, your input is appreciated....

Rob
 
Hey, thanks for the info.
Looking into possibly buying a "used" unit of this model.
Quick, question.....
When did V.C. begin to experience "quality" issues?
This may help in making my decision...

Rob
 
Yes, the link above will provide the info you need. Main differences in models seem to be how the cat and cat chamber is accessed (inside stove vs. from back).
I've got the 1303 version, made in 1987. Can't afford a new VC, so bought one used Aug 2005 for $275. Black enamel finish.
If you can afford it, buy new to save tinkering/repair issues.

Issues with my used VC Intrepid:
-I had to rebuild the stove, as was no longer air-tight from being moved about and it's age. Plan on rebuilding if you buy used (unless it's relatively new and you can move it without stressing it). If you rebuild, take pictures/notes as you disassemble....it was a bit tricky getting the fireback parts back in until I got the sequence correct.

-I also had to replace a few fiberglass gaskets...doors, griddle top (buy by the foot cheaply from mcmaster carr online).

-Did not have bottom heat shield. Easily made from heavy gauge alum. panel from an old alum. storm door.

-Black enamel is heavily failed on top, and chipped elsewhere. I don't know if the top failure is from previous owner over-firing, or late 80s-early 90s quality control problem. Haven't figured out a good way to fix, other than inpainting missing enamel with high temp flat black to somewhat hide the damage.

-Small chunk of metal popped out at a hinge pin seat. Fixed with Pyro-Putty 2400 by aremco--high temp metal repair. (The cracked piece was hidden by enamel finish and only became apparent when one of the doors wouldn't lift out of its pin seats. The pins seemed to have been forced down at some point or damaged by heat over time. I eventually was able to ease them out, but then the cracked part of the pin seat fell out.) If you buy used, check pin seats carefully for cracks, but remember they can be fixed relatively inexpensively....however, all things being equal, an undamaged stove is better of course.

-Still has original secondary air probe...basically a big chunk of copper wire attached to a bimetal coil that controls small hidden damper for secondary combustion air. Probe has been heavily eroded, but still functions. Should probably be replaced.

-Cat. converter needed to be replaced. If buying used, open stove up to look at the cat converter and the refractory assembly that holds it. If the cat is cracked and missing pieces, you'll need to spend about $100 to replace (less if buying Clear Skies). The refract. chamber is a fragile paperlike material...kind of like acoustic ceiling tiles...check to make sure it hasn't been damaged by a previous owner. I think that's also about a $100 part. I repaired mine with a paste of stove cement and perlite.

You also will want to check if the stove has regular legs or optional short ones....ie, make sure it fits your intended location.
Good Luck.
 
Elmo,

Great read as per your stove and the rebuild. We have a Defiant IA and it just keeps cranking. We haven't had any issues with it except for replacing the grate. We did build a bottom heat shield (for safety reasons) for it since it does not have any firebrick.

I always wondered what we would do if a major cast failed but we take care to clean the ash out daily and burn it hot at least twice a day.

Anyway.. again.. this was a great read.


Thank you,
Jim & Kathy
 
think the 1308 -92 on is the same as 1990 apart from the doors that are half glass only. Most parts are interchangeable.
 
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