Iron & Oak wood splitter recomendation

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1990Jotul

Member
Feb 13, 2014
43
New Jersey
I am looking at getting an Iron & Oak splitter. I know that I want a horizontal/vertical model and something that will have decent power and durability. I am specifically considering three models: the 24 ton BHVH2418GX, the 26 ton BHVH2616GXT, and the 30 ton BHVH3018GX. The price differences between these is not all that much, so I am not so concerned about that. I just want to know if there are any advantages of one versus the others. The 26 ton is now a discontinued model, but I can still get a new one from a local dealer.

From what i have been reading, there probably isn't that big a difference in the power of these- in terms of how effectively it will split wood. Do people here agree with that? Are there any other things I should be considering in choosing between these three models?

Thanks.
 
24 ton vs. 26 ton. If the price is similar, the specs on the 26 ton are a nice improvement - larger cylinder, larger engine, larger pump, and torsion axle suspension. The latter is of concern only if you tow it on the road.

24 ton vs. 30 ton. Unless I am missing something, the 26 ton and 30 ton units are nearly identical. Same engine, same pump, same size cylinder. The 26 ton cylinder is 2.00", while the 30 ton is 1.75" - all other things being the same I would prefer the larger diameter rod. The 30 ton does have a larger hydraulic tank - 9.5 vs. 10.5. And the 26 comes with the torsion axle.

I do not think the 30 ton actually buys you any more capacity or any less than the 26 ton.
 
Cycle times?
 
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...all within a second and actually listed as 13 second cycle on the small one, 12 second on the 26 and 30 ton models. Really, the 26 and 30 ton models seem to share about everything... cylinder, engine, pump ratings, etc. So just creative advertising / measuring / rounding to get 30 out of a 26 ton model? Maybe the 30 ton is really the 26 ton with the relief screw turned in 1 more rotation?

A 4.5" diameter cylinder has about 15.9 square inches of working area if my 'pie are square' button is working. And 60,000 pounds per 15.9 inches seems to work out to almost 3800 pounds per square inch to get a 'true' 30 tons at the wedge. Are they really running a 3800 psi hydraulic system?
 
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I note an egregious error in my post above. I cited the 26 ton cylinder as being 2.00" and the 30 ton as 1.75". I left out the word "rod". So, the sentence should read, "The 26 ton cylinder rod is 2.00", while the 30 ton is 1.75" - all other things being the same I would prefer the larger diameter rod." According to the Iron and Oak website, both models have a 4.5" cylinder.
 
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Dont forget to look past numbers, and look at the design & layout and how it fits into your routine. I checked out some quick when I was into a local splitter selling place for something else yesterday. They were DHT made (or looked just like them but different brand). I think a 25 & 32 T. All I had to do was try to lift it up by the ball coupler and try to move it back and forth to decide they wouldn't be for me.
 
If they are all within a second for cycle time I would go with the lowest price. The 24 will have all the power you need.
 
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Thanks guys. You folks are very helpful and I appreciate it. After reading all your comments, I was leaning towards the 26T, but here's another option I just saw a BHVH2213XGF 20 Ton Fast Cycle. It has an 8 sec cycle time. Despite the model number suggesting it might be 22Ton, I saw it being advertised as 20. Looks like it has the same engine, hydraulic capacity and approx. weight as the 26, but not the torsion axel. Of course it is much faster and only about $100 more. What do you folks think of this one?
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 
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I personally wouldn't do an iron and oak. I'm splitter shopping as well. Brave makes basically the same splitter, sans torsion axle, at almost half the price. You are really paying for the Honda engine which is shared among the splitters of this "class". The biggest advantage of the Honda engine is the noise level, about half of the Kohler engined splitters. Does a place local to you sell the Iron and Oak units? That's the only way I'd buy one.
 
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Ashful is the sites splitter expert and opinion you need hear from. Do a little research on his posts for splitters. This is one of the most recommended splitters on the site with many years of happy wood splitting behind it. It used to be a 22 ton but now its a 25.
(broken link removed)
 
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Ashful is the sites splitter expert and opinion you need hear from. Do a little research on his posts for splitters. This is one of the most recommended splitters on the site with many years of happy wood splitting behind it. It used to be a 22 ton but now its a 25.
(broken link removed)
Wow, you are right- Ashful has some very informative posts. I just started reading a few and have been learning quite a bit. I will definitely go through more of them tomorrow. Thanks for pointing me that way Jazzberry.
 
I personally wouldn't do an iron and oak. I'm splitter shopping as well. Brave makes basically the same splitter, sans torsion axle, at almost half the price. You are really paying for the Honda engine which is shared among the splitters of this "class". The biggest advantage of the Honda engine is the noise level, about half of the Kohler engined splitters. Does a place local to you sell the Iron and Oak units? That's the only way I'd buy one.

SpaceBus, yes I have an Iron and Oak dealer very close to me. However, I do not have a Brave dealer anywhere near by. I knew Brave was the company making I&O splitters, but I never knew they made a line just under the Brave name. You're right, they are a lot less expensive, but it seems like they differ more than by just having different engines. They have significantly less hydraulic fluid capacity and, what should be comparable models, weigh almost two hundred pounds less than the I&O one. But I will look at them a bit further. You have a Brave dealer near you?
 
SpaceBus, yes I have an Iron and Oak dealer very close to me. However, I do not have a Brave dealer anywhere near by. I knew Brave was the company making I&O splitters, but I never knew they made a line just under the Brave name. You're right, they are a lot less expensive, but it seems like they differ more than by just having different engines. They have significantly less hydraulic fluid capacity and, what should be comparable models, weigh almost two hundred pounds less than the I&O one. But I will look at them a bit further. You have a Brave dealer near you?

Yes, the brave dealer is five minutes away. I did noticed the lower hydro fluid capacities. This is probably easily overcome with a larger reservoir or fluid cooler, but I doubt this is necessary in any event unless you are processing firewood for profit.

I should also add that most of the Brave splitters are available with Honda GX engines as well. Some are GC engined, but I imagine that's not a bad choice either.
 
Thanks guys. You folks are very helpful and I appreciate it. After reading all your comments, I was leaning towards the 26T, but here's another option I just saw a BHVH2213XGF 20 Ton Fast Cycle. It has an 8 sec cycle time. Despite the model number suggesting it might be 22Ton, I saw it being advertised as 20. Looks like it has the same engine, hydraulic capacity and approx. weight as the 26, but not the torsion axel. Of course it is much faster and only about $100 more. What do you folks think of this one?
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

I wouldn't worry too much about the cycle time, either. Unless you have two people to constantly feed the splitter or some other time critical factor.

Couple of reasons - First, you usually don't need to full cycle every log. If you hit the grain right and are splitting generally 'normal' wood, you can often cleave off a chunk in the first few inches of travel, then reset. Only the very worst stuff needs the 'full pull'. Second, you see a lot of videos of 'fast splitters', but I doubt they are going like that for any great length of time. So if you sprint half a mile in 5 minutes, take a 10 minute recovery break, and sprint the last half mile in 5 minutes vs just walking a mile in 20 minutes - the outcome is the same. Likewise, keeping up with the infeed logs, the outfeed splits and the actual log splitting every 8 seconds or less, that is going to be a pretty good sprint!
 
The difference between 8 seconds and 13 seconds is huge. Not sure on the 20 ton but I bet it would be fine. Ashful needs to chime in here. I sent him a pm.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the cycle time, either. Unless you have two people to constantly feed the splitter or some other time critical factor.

Couple of reasons - First, you usually don't need to full cycle every log. If you hit the grain right and are splitting generally 'normal' wood, you can often cleave off a chunk in the first few inches of travel, then reset. Only the very worst stuff needs the 'full pull'. Second, you see a lot of videos of 'fast splitters', but I doubt they are going like that for any great length of time. So if you sprint half a mile in 5 minutes, take a 10 minute recovery break, and sprint the last half mile in 5 minutes vs just walking a mile in 20 minutes - the outcome is the same. Likewise, keeping up with the infeed logs, the outfeed splits and the actual log splitting every 8 seconds or less, that is going to be a pretty good sprint!

I'm with you, I don't really get the need for super fast cycle times. Unless you make money selling firewood, what does it matter? Is everyone in such a hurry now?
 
You guys are giving me a lot to think about. I have about 30 years of heavy wood burning experience, chain sawing and hand splitting. However, I really didn't know much about wood splitters. I did rent one years ago, so I understand what you are all talking about in practice, but there is still a lot for me to learn. The reason I became focused on the Iron and Oak brand, is that I did some quick checking on this site and came across several posts saying these were the best, albeit expensive. Over the years I have found that I have usually been happiest with purchases where I just bit the bullet and paid for high quality up front rather than getting something cheap that didn't perform or last as well. I was under the impression that a lot of the cheaper brands were lower quality Chinese machines, and getting an American made I&O would just be a wiser purchase in the long run. I also have an I&O dealer very near me. However, as I said, you guys have giving me some things to think about. I have a TSC store even closer to me than the I&O dealer. I am willing to pay $3,000 for a splitter, but don't want to be a fool if I could get something almost as good for a third of that. Would I be just as well off going to Tractor Supply?

As far as this last suggestion about a SuperSplit, I thought these kinetic splitters don't really have the power to get through knotty wood. That's really what I want a splitter for. I'm just as happy to wack those easy straight-grained pieces with my Fiskars X25. Was I wrong about kinetic splitters- are they really worth considering?

Thanks again everyone- you are all really being helpful.
 
Slow cycle times are annoying. There are plenty of relatively inexpensive machines rated 11 seconds or less.

...or a just get a SuperSplit. ::-)

Exactly. Anything under 6 inches per second travel speed is intolerable, in my opinion. I originally bought a machine that averaged only 4 inches per second, and learned I just didn’t have the patience to work that way. I ended up spending a lot of money on a new motor, pump, fittings and lines to upgrade it, which gave me something... acceptable.

I like the advice above on looking at the ergonomics, although I suspect most of the commercially-available machines have probably been already worked out for reasonably good ergonomics. I think there are several designs that can all work nicely, you’ll adapt your procedure to suit the machine.

My advice is to buy the fastest 4” cylinder machine you can afford. I’ve found the 3.5” cylinder is just a little shy of the force required to get thru knotty hardwoods, but I don’t think I’ve ever met any round I actually want to keep, that my 4” cylinder can’t power thru.

I see guys buying these increadibly powerful 5” and 6” cylinder machines, with tiny little 16 GPM pumps on them, and wonder how they can even tolerate working so slowly. Available force way beyond anything I need, at the expense of speed, seems like a very poor choice to me. Not to mention, those machines require heavier beams and other components, which just make it more difficult to move around my work site.

Some of the older members here say they don’t mind working slow, I guess I’m not there yet, and I doubt I ever will be so patient. When I’m proping a large round up on the foot plate, every second it takes that wedge to reach the end of the round really matters to me.

On rod size, the larger rod for the same cylinder will increase retraction speed, as it reduces the fluid volume required for retraction.

The fast split (flywheel) machines are really cool, but I have no experience with them. I’d love to borrow one someday, my impression as a non-owner is that they’d be a great second splitter, but maybe not as one’s “only” splitter.
 
SpaceBus, yes I have an Iron and Oak dealer very close to me. However, I do not have a Brave dealer anywhere near by. I knew Brave was the company making I&O splitters, but I never knew they made a line just under the Brave name. You're right, they are a lot less expensive, but it seems like they differ more than by just having different engines. They have significantly less hydraulic fluid capacity and, what should be comparable models, weigh almost two hundred pounds less than the I&O one. But I will look at them a bit further. You have a Brave dealer near you?

Heavier is a minus to me.

No matter what you buy, don't buy it without thoroughly assessing its design and layout and spending time at one at least in the store to check for things like easily reached controls. And if the engine is out of the way of falling splits. I find most are deficient in those areas. One thing is being able to split equally easy from either side. Most or a lot have controls oriented to one side and even say in the manual that one side is the side you operate from. Things like that are easy to overlook when buying but could end up bugging you forever after. Another for me is the splitter being easy to move around some and reposition by hand. Important as you work your way into a pile of rounds.
 
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The reason I became focused on the Iron and Oak brand, is that I did some quick checking on this site and came across several posts saying these were the best, albeit expensive.
I’ve rented two different Iron and Oak models, on three separate occasions, it is the only brand our two local tool rental places carry. I found them to both be very nicely built machines, although one (the 3.5” fast cycle machine) was just a hair shy of the power I needed to bust thru knotty crotches of oak without some retries and re-thinking. I’d say Iron and Oak is a fine brand, but there are likely several others that will work just as well. Based on advice from many forum members that preceded me (namely Brother Bart and Backwoods Savage), I went with the 22-ton Speeco sold by TSC, at the time they badged them “Huskee 22-ton”. I think the same (or very similar) Speeco splitter is still sold today under the “County Line” brand.

The ergonomics and overall design of the Speeco/Huskee is reasonably good. I’ll list some of what I find to be pros and cons of it, so you can think about this as you look at models you’re considering:

Pros:
1. Nice balance, it has enough tongue weight to not tip when I throw the heaviest rounds I can lift up onto the beam.
2. Weight, the tongue and entire splitter are still light enough that I can move it around my lumpy splitting area by hand without too much difficulty. No need to hook it to the tractor for small moves.
3. Beam and wedge are sufficiently heavy that I have had no issues with bending or breaking.
4. It can go vertical! This was an absolute must for me, I bring home a lot of stuff over 3 feet diameter, and it’s mostly oak (heavy).

Cons:
1. Some don’t like the wrap style beams, believing debris can get caught in the channels. This has never been much of an issue for me, so while I understand the concern, it wouldn’t be a factor in my purchasing decision.
2. The Briggs e675 vertical shaft engine had a primer bulb instead of choke. This made it a little tricky to start on very cold days, you’d have to prime, rip the cord, and then get right back on the primer to keep it running the first 30 seconds.
3. Vertical shaft motor, if you’re going to do your own hot rod upgrades later, it limits your options.
4. Moving wedge vs. fixed wedge. A lot of guys prefer a fixed wedge with outfeed table and a moving pusher. Of course, this negates the option to go vertical. I’d rather have a splitter that can go vertical.

It had a vertical shaft Briggs e675 motor driving an 11 gpm pump, which was a bit slow for my liking. I upgraded to a 344cc Intek motor with 16 GPM pump, and line sizes to suit. Long-term, I may upgrade the pump to 22 GPM, but that will require several more expensive mod’s (larger bungs in tank, larger lines, larger ports on cylinder).
 
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I’ve rented two different Iron and Oak models, on three separate occasions, it is the only brand our two local tool rental places carry. I found them to both be very nicely built machines, although one (the 3.5” fast cycle machine) was just a hair shy of the power I needed to bust thru knotty crotches of oak without some retries and re-thinking. I’d say Iron and Oak is a fine brand, but there are likely several others that will work just as well. Based on advice from many forum members that preceded me (namely Brother Bart and Backwoods Savage), I went with the 22-ton Speeco sold by TSC, at the time they badged them “Huskee 22-ton”. I think the same (or very similar) Speeco splitter is still sold today under the “County Line” brand.

The ergonomics and overall design of the Speeco/Huskee is reasonably good. I’ll list some of what I find to be pros and cons of it, so you can think about this as you look at models you’re considering:

Pros:
1. Nice balance, it has enough tongue weight to not tip when I throw the heaviest rounds I can lift up onto the beam.
2. Weight, the tongue and entire splitter are still light enough that I can move it around my lumpy splitting area by hand without too much difficulty. No need to hook it to the tractor for small moves.
3. Beam and wedge are sufficiently heavy that I have had no issues with bending or breaking.
4. It can go vertical! This was an absolute must for me, I bring home a lot of stuff over 3 feet diameter, and it’s mostly oak (heavy).

Cons:
1. Some don’t like the wrap style beams, believing debris can get caught in the channels. This has never been much of an issue for me, so while I understand the concern, it wouldn’t be a factor in my purchasing decision.
2. The Briggs e675 vertical shaft engine had a primer bulb instead of choke. This made it a little tricky to start on very cold days, you’d have to prime, rip the cord, and then get right back on the primer to keep it running the first 30 seconds.
3. Vertical shaft motor, if you’re going to do your own hot rod upgrades later, it limits your options.
4. Moving wedge vs. fixed wedge. A lot of guys prefer a fixed wedge with outfeed table and a moving pusher. Of course, this negates the option to go vertical. I’d rather have a splitter that can go vertical.

It had a vertical shaft Briggs e675 motor driving an 11 gpm pump, which was a bit slow for my liking. I upgraded to a 344cc Intek motor with 16 GPM pump, and line sizes to suit. Long-term, I may upgrade the pump to 22 GPM, but that will require several more expensive mod’s (larger bungs in tank, larger lines, larger ports on cylinder).

Ashful, Thanks for weighing in on this. Great information. My one question would be, are you aware of who makes the fastest 4 inch cylinder (and largest diameter rod). You mentioned upgrading your 4 inch unit with a 22GPM pump and larger engine- is there anyone who just makes one of these to begin with? Thanks again.
 
Ashful, Thanks for weighing in on this. Great information. My one question would be, are you aware of who makes the fastest 4 inch cylinder (and largest diameter rod). You mentioned upgrading your 4 inch unit with a 22GPM pump and larger engine- is there anyone who just makes one of these to begin with? Thanks again.

Thats a great question. Seems like if they did make one it would sell like hot cakes. I would gladly pay a few hundred more for 1/2 the cycle time. Also I should add that the link I sent you to the TSC 'County Line' splitter is the current name made by Speeco / Huskee.
 
Ashful, Thanks for weighing in on this. Great information. My one question would be, are you aware of who makes the fastest 4 inch cylinder (and largest diameter rod). You mentioned upgrading your 4 inch unit with a 22GPM pump and larger engine- is there anyone who just makes one of these to begin with? Thanks again.

No, I’m not aware of one, now. But if I were buying a new splitter today, I’d probably buy something with a 300cc motor and 16 gpm pump, which is normally going to be the 28 - 30 ton class, with a 5” cylinder, and then downgrade the cylinder to 4” for better speed. That’s likely the fastest and cheapest path to a fast hydraulic splitter. Something like this unit from County Line, which already has a decent log catcher and can go vertical, would be a decent starting point:

(broken link removed)

The other option I see for getting a fast splitter is to go the route I did, which is to buy the smaller and lighter frame with 4” cylinder and 11 gpm pump, and then upgrade the motor, lines and pump. However, this is the more costly path.
 
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No, I’m not aware of one, now. But if I were buying a new splitter today, I’d probably buy something with a 300cc motor and 16 gpm pump, which is normally going to be the 28 - 30 ton class, with a 5” cylinder, and then downgrade the cylinder to 4” for better speed. That’s likely the fastest and cheapest path to a fast hydraulic splitter. Something like this unit from County Line, which already has a decent log catcher and can go vertical, would be a decent starting point:

(broken link removed)

The other option I see for getting a fast splitter is to go the route I did, which is to buy the smaller and lighter frame with 4” cylinder and 11 gpm pump, and then upgrade the motor, lines and pump. However, this is the more costly path.

More costly, but ultimately probably the better setup. It's like putting a V8 in a Miata.
 
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