Is Simpson Duraplus the top of the line pipe?

[snow4me]

Not happy with the Sure Temp I bought. I want top of the line quality, no expense spared. Who has it?
Going class A stainless from the stove right through the roof. Please don't try and talk me out of it unless there's a hazzard. I don't need the extra heat off the pipe for those of you thinking I should go single wall. I just have a picture in my mind of how I want it to look and I am not getting there with the Sure Temp. I want PERFECT polished stainless pipe with the best quality insulation which the consensus seems to be blanketed. Please don't take this is being a smart ass in ANY way, I just want what I want and don't know what to do so I am asking for help.

Thanks fellers, I appreciate everything!

Daryl

 

[Pagey]

Selkirk makes a fine product.

http://www.selkirkcorp.com/products/chimney.aspx

I have Hart & Cooley, which carries a limited lifetime warranty.

(broken link removed to http://www.hartandcooley.com/chimney/all_chimney.htm)

 

[snow4me]

Selkirk makes a fine product.

http://www.selkirkcorp.com/products/chimney.aspx

I have Hart & Cooley, which carries a limited lifetime warranty.

(broken link removed to http://www.hartandcooley.com/chimney/all_chimney.htm)

Thank you very much for the reply! the pipe I have that I am not totally pleased with the finish is the sure temp which is made by Selkirk. The quality is there, the finish is not as nice as I need.

Hart & Cooley I just called and they do not offer a polished stainless anymore.

Thnks again for your help!!
Daryl

 

[Pagey]

I'm under the impression that you can't go Class A all the way up. You'll have to use either single or double wall stove pipe up to the ceiling support, then there will be a transition piece that allows the Class A to connect to the stove pipe. Class A usually connects with a twist-lock system reinforced by locking bands. I am not aware of any Class A that will connect to the stove collar.

 

[DAKSY]

Hey, Pagey,
I'm under the impression that you can't go Class A all the way up. You'll have to use either single or double wall stove pipe up to the ceiling support, then there will be a transition piece that allows the Class A to connect to the stove pipe.

You are correct.

Class A usually connects with a twist-lock system reinforced by locking bands.

Some manufacturers connect the sections in this manner, some don't.
ICC (Excel) utilizes three stainless steel screws for the attachment.

I am not aware of any Class A that will connect to the stove collar

Class A chimney starts at the first (wall or ceiling) penetration...
Connector pipe goes from the stove to the Class A.

 

[snow4me]

I have the adapter. It sets down into the flue collar that came with the stove. On the flue collar that came with the stove there are two bolts that tighten down to this adapter and then the class A twist locks to the adapter. The guy seems to know what he is talking about and knows what I want to do. I will take a pic of it tonight and post it up for you guys to look at.

Can't tell you how much I appreciate the help!

Daryl

 

[Pagey]

I see what you're saying, but I was not aware that such a beast existed. I've only seen stove pipe to ceiling adapter, then Class A.

 

[fossil]

Nothing I know of sez you can't run Class A straight up from the stove, but most don't because of the added expense. All Class A is tested to the same UL standard, so when you say "top of the line", I'm assuming (from reading what you've posted) that you're more concerned with having a perfect mirror finish stainless look to the stovepipe. If money's truly no object, you could put in any approved pipe, and have a sheet metal shop fab you some "perfect" polished stainless sleeve pieces to slip over the pipe to achieve the look you're after. Just a thought. Rick

 

[snow4me]

Nothing I know of sez you can't run Class A straight up from the stove, but most don't because of the added expense. All Class A is tested to the same UL standard, so when you say "top of the line", I'm assuming (from reading what you've posted) that you're more concerned with having a perfect mirror finish stainless look to the stovepipe. If money's truly no object, you could put in any approved pipe, and have a sheet metal shop fab you some "perfect" polished stainless sleeve pieces to slip over the pipe to achieve the look you're after. Just a thought. Rick

Well, I am not laoded BUT, This is something I really want to be nice. I have this wood stove bug that has bitten BAD and I have to cure it. I even catch myself noticing fireplaces when I am watching movies!!

Daryl

 

[fossil]

Well, I don't know what stove you have, Daryl. There's stovepipe available in enamel finishes of various colors, but I'd guess they're targeted more toward folks with enamelled stoves. Speaking soley for me, a flat black pipe (whether single or double wall) coming up out of a flat black stove just looks "right". I do prefer the look of a polished stainless chimney extending from the roof over that of the more typical galvanized, but having said that, both of mine are galvanized. Even those can be painted, though. I hope you're able to put the system together in a way that pleases you. Rick

 

[DAKSY]

Hew, snow4me,
I have the adapter. It sets down into the flue collar that came with the stove. On the flue collar that came with the stove there are two bolts that tighten down to this adapter and then the class A twist locks to the adapter. The guy seems to know what he is talking about and knows what I want to do. I will take a pic of it tonight and post it up for you guys to look at.

The adapter is meant to fit into the top section of your connector pipe.
It will fit into the flue collar on your stove, but it's not meant to do so.
NFPA 211 DOES allow the chimney to be connected directly to the appliance.
Connector pipe is not required.
The problem that I see with a direct connect to the chimney is the cleaning issue.
You can remove sections of connector pipe & clean them outside of your home.
With a direct-connect you're going to have to brush EVERYTHING from the chimney
INTO the stove & then clean the stove out.
If your stove has a removable baffle, this may not be an issue.
It's your home & your call, but most of us here would recommend against it for one reason or another...

 

[snow4me]

I got the blue/black enamel Jotul F100. I mocked it up in the garage with the stainless I have and I really like the looks of it. I am not saying that I don't like the black pipe look because I do. I had planned on going that way until I got this idea. I am just in love with it.

Thanks.

 

[snydley]

[quote author="snow4me" date="1232755367"]Not happy with the Sure Temp I bought. I want top of the line quality, no expense spared. Who has it?
Going class A stainless from the stove right through the roof. Please don't try and talk me out of it unless there's a hazzard. I don't need the extra heat off the pipe for those of you thinking I should go single wall. I just have a picture in my mind of how I want it to look and I am not getting there with the Sure Temp. I want PERFECT polished stainless pipe with the best quality insulation which the consensus seems to be blanketed. Please don't take this is being a smart ass in ANY way, I just want what I want and don't know what to do so I am asking for help.

Another option, if you don't want flat black, is to take a double walled stove pipe, and your ceiling support box and have it chrome plated. There are chrome shops all over the place that plate motorcycle and car parts. I see no reason why they wouldn't plate a brand new stovepipe and support box.
Snyde

 

[fossil]

I got the blue/black enamel Jotul F100. I mocked it up in the garage with the stainless I have and I really like the looks of it. I am not saying that I don't like the black pipe look because I do. I had planned on going that way until I got this idea. I am just in love with it.

Thanks.

I bet you could find blue-black enamel stovepipe, if that would work for you. Rick

 

[snow4me]

As far as cleaning goes, couldn't the sweep just undo the twist lock joint where the pipe just passes the shingles and clean it that way? I don't see where the brush would get hung up anywhere. It's just a straight shot down into the stove.

DAKSY, you are probably right about that connector. He gave me some sealant to put between the collar and the adapter and said to use it liberally. I was thinking about through bolting the adapter to the collar with stainless hardware. I don't think two nuts protruding into the pipe would hamper the flow. I don't like the idea of pinching the adapter or a connector pipe to the stove with the two bolts. Doesn't seem very robust to me and could smash the pipe inward. If I do drill and bolt through, I would be especially careful in sealing it up.

Daryl

 

[Detector$]

Seems to me that the problem with using class A all the way up would be the transition though the ceiling. The ceiling support box will be black and it may not connect properly to the class A on the bottom. In addition, it likely wasn't UL listed that way.

As far a brands. I bought ICC Excel since many people on this site consider it the best. It has a welded seam and a number of other advantages. If I were going to buy another brand it would be DuraTech.... DuraPlus is huge (wider diameter), would look silly on your stove, and isn't all stainless construction. ICC Excel and Simpson DureTech get my vote for the best.

Another problem with using stainless in your living area.... it is nice and shiny, but it's not always smooth and dent-free. Then it just looks plain bad.

 

[lexybird]

the duraplus is very nice stuff ,works awesome too smooth stainless resists creosote and keeps the flue hot for a clean burn and easy starts ,i have an exterior triple wall and snow wont even melt on it with a full blown roaring fire just inside ,sadly alot of the fittings and the smaller sections are not stainless though more of a galvinzed look ,which isnt cool considering the high price