Princess PE-32, my second year. Stove pipe, blower, stack height, shields, and damper type questions.

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RDPRDP

New Member
Feb 1, 2024
7
Japan
Hello all,

I've been a lurker for the last few years, and this forum helped me decide on a Princess PE-32 to replace the Dutch West circa 199x Catalytic Extra Large that was in the house when I bought the place and I was unable to rescue it (warped panels from abuse, and very finicky), and I am very happy with the decision. I am about to enter my second year with it, and have some questions that are specific to my setup, so while good advice in other threads has helped me understand a lot I have issues and I'd like to know where I should be focusing my energy on first.

Note: Any action on items below can be independent of each other, I don't need to do all the work at once as I'm happy to compartmentalize each issue until it is resolved. I also enjoy other peoples setup photos, so I've included mine.

1.1 Double wall stove pipe: I currently have single wall, and I am aware that BK recommends double wall to keep the heat and the draft intact. I've got a contractor that is asking for USD $1,200 for parts and labour to change-out my roughly 6 feet of single wall (distance to the connecting box) for double wall with a damper (more on the damper later). In this estimate he has listed everything as stainless, and the parts include an adapter, a damper, the pipe, a coupler, and two locking bands. Is this highway robbery, or generally in the ballpark for this kind of parts and labor? He hasn't indicated any of the brands he would source, should I be asking him to provide?

1.2. Features on the double wall stove pipe: My draft is discussed below, but I'm currently set to pay extra to have a double wall damper installed. If I will consistently have to be dealing with poor draft do I need to pay the extra to have the damper option? I also asked for access holes in the double wall for a manometer, what size and where should these be, or is somewhere else better?

2. Stack height: My place is 3,200ft (975m) above sea level. Roof exit, all straight. From stove to exit I guess I have around 13 feet. However, my chimney cap sits well below the roof ridge/peak, and is impossible to reach without heavy machinery, and might require that I bring down a tree to reach it, or three stories of scaffolding, neither option is cheap or simple. However while I think my stove drafts well I have had a few times during the season where very heavy winds outside pushed smoke into my room. I do not have a manometer to check the current setup, but I think while draft is probably fine, I need to figure out a way to deal with the downbursts. Without replacing all the Class A I've been told by two contractors that if they could reach the roof they could add a little more height to the current setup before having to replace everything, but if I can install a manometer on either my current single wall or potentially the new double wall setup I guess I'd know for sure. To confirm, I am not/not in compliance with the 3-2-10 rule.

3. Blower: I feel I want the blower, but my electric grid is 100V 50hz, and as far as I know the blowers are wired for 120V 60hz. Even with a transformer (which I really do not want to use) I still have the line frequency 60hz vs 50hz issue to deal with, and that will cause early burnout somewhere in the chain on the blower. I could go crazy and convert 100v 50hz AC to DC, then DC to 120v 60hz, but I'd really just like BK to have a product that caters to it's international audience by having a universal power option, or at least being able to spec other power options. Are there other options for me with this to address this issue such as gutting it for local parts? Is there a transformer I could get rewound????

4. Shields on my Ultra: As the picture shows have ample space on the left and right hand side of the stove. The left shield comes off easy, but the right one once removed leaves the thermostat dangling inappropriately, and no holes to put the thermostat brace back onto as the holes for it are on the shield itself. Is this by design? Am I missing something? If I just take off the left shield and leave the right side one on does it affect the performance of the thermostat or some other process? If I leave the right hand side on due to the issue I have should I leave the left on on as well? Is there really a worthwhile improvement by taking the shields off, or does the heat still reach the room eventually through the top of the stove?

A few stats:
1. I burn mostly purchased air dried wood (hardwood mix, mostly oak) around the 20% moisture level on a fresh split. Sometimes I have pine or cedar in the mix.
2. I feel my burn times are low compared to other people on this forum, and need to do a full re-load every 12 hours when the dial is set to around 4:30pm. If I go below 3:00pm the cat can go out, I assume this is caused by poor draft.

Happy to answer any questions.

thanks,
RDP
[Hearth.com] Princess PE-32, my second year. Stove pipe, blower, stack height, shields, and damper type questions.
 
Last edited:
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Leave the sides on. It was safety tested that way.

Cool looking install.

BKVP
 
If you sweep it and it’s clean enough I’d say you have a good install. You could install the double wall. But the benefits will only be during warmer weather. You don’t need a damper. If your warm and the pipe is clean enough why change it.
 
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At your elevation and flue stack height, no damper. I believe the stove recommends a 15 ft height so you're short already, leading to lower draft. The elevation doesn't help either.

The stove is designed to shed its heat as designed, and does so well with the shields. I wouldn't adapt the design to try to get more out.
 
Following up on the blower. It moves heat more quickly all you to run hot with same stove top temps. If getting cold house up to temp quickly is a control want address would adapt an available 100V 50 hz blower
 
Thank you uall for your input! A few updates:

Stack height & damper & double wall: I had guessed low at 13ft, it is according to my stove pipe person I'm actually more like just a hair under 15ft. stoveliker noted that 15ft was probably the recommended height, so being just below justified me not needed to install a damper, especially after taking into account my evelation at 3,200ft. After taking the hint from stoveliker I consulted the manual, and at my elevation the actual recommendation is for 16.5ft, so I am quite below the recommended height. No damper for me then, and considering I need all the draft I can get to compensate for the low stack height and my inability to easily add height outside to the termination I've basically set my mind on moving to double wall stove pipe.

Shields on my Ultra: I took note of the multiple comments to not mess with them, so that is settled then; they stay where they are.

Blower: EbS-P mentioned "adapt an available 100V 50hz" blower. I actually have a blower that was given to me, but I believe it is for an older model of Princess (doesn't fit to mine). I'll post a picture in the coming days and see if anyone thinks it can be modified to fit, then I could try to swap out the insides for 100V 50hz compatible guts. Got a feeling this blower is not going to be easy to modify to fit however.

thanks all!
RDP
 
good choice going double wall stove pipe.
 
As promised, pictures of the blower. 115V 60hz 24w Bomax Type B-TP 904-6986 fans.
 

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As far as changing to double walled stove pipe it’s a DIY job. I installed a telescopic double walled stovepipe 6” diameter 38” to 68” for $209.99 plus tax Canadian dollars. Makes cleaning ash and droppings from the chimney sweep that accumulate on the top of the firebox a breeze. Undo 3 screws, slide the double walled pipe up as far as you need for vacuum access…
 
As far as changing to double walled stove pipe it’s a DIY job. I installed a telescopic double walled stovepipe 6” diameter 38” to 68” for $209.99 plus tax Canadian dollars. Makes cleaning ash and droppings from the chimney sweep that accumulate on the top of the firebox a breeze. Undo 3 screws, slide the double walled pipe up as far as you need for vacuum access…
Thanks for the input! I recently pulled the plug and went to double wall, and the performance improvement is significant as I now have about five more hours of burn (sometimes more), less smoke out the cap, and more heat haze (from the cap).

I didn't go the DIY route as I bought my place used, and didn't know the particulars about what I needed to tuly buy to connect to the current ceiling connection box. I spend way too much money on it, and well, as the money is now gone from my bank account not going to cry about the cost, and just enjoy the excellent outcome. Best decision I made regarding upgrading my setup to be more Blaze King friendly.

RDP
 
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Well done RDP!

BKVP