Jøtul 602B

[Fire Water]

I just took a chance on a Jøtul 160, for $180. and a 12 hr roundtrip to pick it up this weekend . It has hardly been used and a tiny bit of surface rust. This is a 1970’s stove and just not much to them , I am replacing a Comforter “ Fireview” that I just love it’s just to big . By time you get a nice fire going the house is 90 deg. and your closing it down or leaving the room, just to much stove for 1200 sq ft.
I am going list it for sale, is $400 to much for a grand older wood stove in perfect condition ? The Jøtul 160’s are $700 + used regardless of age and I jumped on this one for under $200 . I am very happy to have a Jøtul coming that I can enjoy not being over heated out of the room .

 

[Fire Water]

I don’t why I wrote Jøtul 160, it’s a Jøtul 602B .

 

[Fire Water]

Pictures at 11

 

[begreen]

I changed the title to avoid confusion. The F602 is a great little stove, it puts out a lot of heat for its size. Burn time is about 2-3 hrs, so it is not great for 24/7 heating, but a good chill chaser for evenings and weekends. Locally they sell for $2-400 in decent condition.

The pictures show the left and right side burn plates missing. They are required to protect the stove and support the baffle. Do you have them?

 

[begreen]

The Comforter Fireview is a wood/coal stove. If the stove is in good condition and fully operable, a guess at price would be $400 if sold in the fall when things start cooling down.

 

[Fire Water]

Thank you for the reply , no I do not have the burn plates . There’s a store in Laramie WY that has them new I guess I will be stopping by on my way home. I did not know they were required until you mentioned it and looked. I will see what happened to them tomorrow when I pick it up she may have them and had the stove apart to move.

 

[peakbagger]

They are great stoves. Just dont pack them up with wood and crank the air down before going to bed. In that mode they are an impressive creosote producer. Get the stove going and then regulate the amount of heat by the amount of wood you load in, avoid cranking down the air way down. They dont last long if you burn them without the burn plates. Usually the outer casting cracks and its planter.

 

[Fire Water]

Yes their instructions are clear on how to run them and surprised to find two dealers in WY one in my little town a guy runs out of his house . It is the perfect application for this room a cozy smaller stove to warm a room on a cold day .I will not be using it without the plates, local guy says all he needs is the serial #.

 

[begreen]

It doesn't take a lot of air. You will find that once the stove is going well, the way to run it, as long as the wood is dry, is to close the air all the way, then just tap the air control a little bit open. With our softwood this could be like 1/16th of an inch open from the closed position. With dense hardwood you might be able to do 2 taps, to maybe 1/8" open.

 

[Bad LP]

My father had one in the living room of the house I grew up in. Great little stove but as mentioned get the side plates as they were prone to cracking. When he started burning more and more he sneaked in another stove under the lintel that I had to shorten the legs a bit so it would fit.

 

[begreen]

The burn plates are sacrificial. They usually last about 10 yrs.

 

[gggvan]

We have one in a 350 Sq ft patio enclosed by sliders, no other heat source. It keeps the room a toasty 72d, even on the coldest new England days. Get a flu temp Guage to keep track of it.

 

[Fire Water]

Picked up the stove yesterday, original owner brought it to CO and never used it after leaving MD . Your mentioning cracked burn plates, yes it has them too. Will be ordering new ones, just tore it down and cleaned it up good to check for cracks, none to be seen. The screws for the top flue extension were rusted in pretty good and some Kroil and a few taps with a ball peen hammer loosened them right up. Needs a new insulation blanket and ones on the way. For $175.00 I can put a few dollars in a great stove.
Any reason the burn plates can’t be welded up ?
What would be the optimal temp of the flue ? And where would it be placed to measure ? I will get one .

 

[begreen]

Have the cracks just started or are they serious enough that the plate has started to warp? If they have just started to crack you might be able to get another season out of them by drilling a tiny hole at the end of the crack. You could try welding, but after so many heatings the cast iron is quite brittle. Some folks have fabricated new ones out of thick 3/8" steel. Haven't heard back from them about how well these have stood up over time.

Be sure to use stove/furnace cement on all the seams as the stove is put back together.

 

[Fire Water]

One side is about 2/3 the way up the other is about a third the way up, I will buy new ones if they last 10 yrs that’s a reasonable expense. All the seams are tight and the door gasket is really hard, Home Depot has the right size to replace it . I didn’t take the fire box apart as it doesn’t appear to need it , everything is still nice and black from the factory with no areas burned out . The insulation blanket on the bottom really has kept the bottom cool it literally fell apart ,it has served well.

 

[begreen]

At this age and with multiple moves the seams may start to leak air. I would tear it down, but then again I have done this before. It's not too daunting. Our 602 took a few hours to rebuild and that included busted bolts and retapping a couple. Use RTV silicone adhesive for the door gasket.

 

[Fire Water]

I think I will do that , do I buy the Jotul universal gasket set or a specific one for the 602 ? I am pleased to find good schematics and parts for this stove and now is the time to do it justice.
You have all been a plethora of info and suggestions and I thank you all.
twenty minutes to tear down completely , very clever design with no gaskets just cement , the only gasket is on the door

 

[begreen]

Yes, it's a simple stove. All you need is the door gasket.

 

[begreen]

It's recommended to put a 1/2" deep layer of sand on the bottom before firing it up.