Jøtul Oslo and large loads?

[Sean in the woods]

To all who have Jøtul F500 Oslo stoves,

Do you pack the stove full east to west? If so, have you ever had a log roll into or rest against the glass?

Has anyone installed andirons?

Thanks
Sean

 

[begreen]

firefighterjake has run one for a long time. No andirons that I know of.

 

[Sawset]

Getting flames to get up between the tubes on top seems to take advantage of the incoming O2 source there. The advantage is very noticable. A top down fire, with wood to the top, EW, a fire starter and some kindling right up at the top there too, uses the incoming air from the tubes to flame away and start to heat right away. Not doing that, not putting wood to the top, means more of a need for a boy scout type fire by itself (3 logs at least, east west, firestarter within, starting small work up to larger logs type of thing). That's how I've seen it anyway.
No andirons here. If anything does roll forward, it's usually just a slight move, tilt forward, not much pressure on the glass. It seems fairly easy to stack, even when it's chock full, so things don't move around much. Resting against the glass just a little hasn't caused an issue.

FWI, the so called secondaries seem to be emitting air, regardless of amount of fire below. They only become visible when there is heat and fuel at the exit holes. Starting the fire can sometimes be a slight issue, because the "secondary" air keeps blowing the lighter out.

 

[Highbeam]

With the OP’s new model cat stove Jøtul 500, I wonder if the secondary air ratio has been changed.

Fully stacking an e/w stove is best done through the side door. I seldom opened the front door on my heritage that was similarly configured. I would never plan on wood touching glass and if it occurred during a fire and I noticed, I would attempt to fix it.

 

[Sean in the woods]

In my one season of wood heat (vast experience ) I noticed that wood touching the glass blackened it. So I'd like to avoid it, if I can.

So, should I make andirons? Or would they just get in the way and be a waste of time?
Are there other ways of keeping logs off the glass?

 

[Sawset]

If the wood is dry, usually dark spots on the glass will burn back off and render it clear again. Also, if the wood is dry, and stove run properly, usually the long term problem then is humidity very early on with a cold firebox and logs popping ash onto the damp glass, then sticking until cleaned off. Any amount of heat later will not remove that. Higher moisture wood will make self cleaning of the glass more difficult or not at all.
Andirons here would definitely not be needed to keep logs where they belong and to keep the glass clean from the dark deposits. Also I don't use any glass cleaner other than a damp cloth. Removing the gray ash clinging to the glass is all that is needed.

 

[Highbeam]

No andirons, just stack carefully so that the fuel falls in as it burns. Your fuel stack is only going to be like 2-3 splits tall. It's like building a rock wall.

 

[xman23]

After a few reloads and a bed of coals, I go to my large splits. About 6" x 6". I can only get in two of these. It's not to hard to keep the splits off the glass even with the side loading most of us do. Best to keep the end away from the glass. It will blacken the glass.

 

[bunfoolio]

I have an Oslo and the log rolling on the glass happens when you front load east west. For me its been no big deal. Glass darkens a bit then it burns off. So I say no worries and stuff it!

 

[begreen]

From the manual:

 

[Ctwoodtick]

In guessing all modern jotuls are built the same. I have the 550 insert. The log rolling against the glass is a pain, no doubt. Not advised to open door in that situation to “fix” it. It shouldn’t be a problem- it just looks weird and blackens the glass. I would have liked a better andirons setup. I suspect they opted for better aesthetics than function, at least with the insert. Heats pretty well though.

 

[begreen]

FWIW, I have never seen a stove manual saying it's ok for wood to rest up against the glass. Most say it is not a good idea.

 

[Sean in the woods]

Looks like I need to start an andiron retrofit thread.

 

[begreen]

Looks like I need to start an andiron retrofit thread.

That is more complex than it might seem. I can't recall seeing a successful retrofit.

 

[Highbeam]

Looks like I need to start an andiron retrofit thread.

Just try it. You have a side load door and they work great. It’s not as easy as north/south through the front door but it’s surprisingly easy to keep control of your logs.

 

[Sean in the woods]

Just try it. You have a side load door and they work great. It’s not as easy as north/south through the front door but it’s surprisingly easy to keep control of your logs.

You may be right. I haven’t got the stove yet and. I’m already thinking of modifications.

 

[Highbeam]

I shoved 30 cords through the side door of my very similar sized stove and never once wished I had andirons.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

FWIW, I have never seen a stove manual saying it's ok for wood to rest up against the glass. Most say it is not a good idea.

Sorry, I meant that it tends to happen unintentionally. I’m no fan of it, but I don’t recommend opening the door to try to adjust, as this can lead to a bigger problem.

 

[CincyBurner]

The Oslo has integral andirons. If your E - W splits are long enough they'll stay tucked behind the andirons.

 

[Sean in the woods]

The Oslo has integral andirons. If your E - W splits are long enough they'll stay tucked behind the andirons.

Hadn’t thought of that. @CincyBurner, What is the door opening width of your Oslo front door. And if you are burning long splits, what works best for you?

 

[fvhowler]

Wood against the glass is inevitable. I pack my H300 for long burns and have accepted the fact that a piece may fall against the glass. As other have said, the glass may blacken but is burned off when wood burns down...no harm done. Of course the stove manufacturer is going to recommend this not happen and that wood must be at least one inch from glass. I think the true danger is wood crashing against the glass and cracking. That is a safety issue but I don't see my wood being heavy enough or having enough force to break the glass.

Keep wood away from glass if you can but don't panic when it happens. Just monitor.

 

[CincyBurner]

I thought that this conversation sounded similar to an old thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/split-length-thickness-vs-burn-times.167532/#post-2247413

A quick measure of the front door opening of my Oslo = 18.5"

 

[Sean in the woods]

I thought that this conversation sounded similar to an old thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/split-length-thickness-vs-burn-times.167532/#post-2247413

A quick measure of the front door opening of my Oslo = 18.5"

Ah! Now I understand. Thanks.

Great link, BTW.

 

[Texas123]

Yes, we installed a log barrier or andiron.
I went to the local welding company and for the front of the stove, had a barrier built.
It measures 23 1/2 inches long, six inches high and has a rectangle cut in the bottom half of it to fit around the primary air inlet also called the doghouse.
I placed it in the front of the firebox above the doghouse, have a firebrick at the far end supporting the andiron and it has worked well.
No logs have rolled onto the glass and I have the peace of mind knowing they almost cannot do so.

If you look at the photo you see the dim outline of the log barrier in the flames

Texas 123.

 

[Sean in the woods]

Yes, we installed a log barrier or andiron.
I went to the local welding company and for the front of the stove, had a barrier built.
It measures 23 1/2 inches long, six inches high and has a rectangle cut in the bottom half of it to fit around the primary air inlet also called the doghouse.
I placed it in the front of the firebox above the doghouse, have a firebrick at the far end supporting the andiron and it has worked well.
No logs have rolled onto the glass and I have the peace of mind knowing they almost cannot do so.

If you look at the photo you see the dim outline of the log barrier in the flames

Texas 123.

Good to know it can be done. That seems simple and effective.

Thanks,
Sean