JD 314 Garden Tractor Value
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English BoB
Minister of Fire
It was only made between 1979 - 1983 so parts may be a problem and if it has the original engine + transmission it has been looked after.
I wouldn't invest that much personally.
Ok, now you post the extras. If I needed any of those I may be tempted at $500.
bob
I wouldn't invest that much personally.
Ok, now you post the extras. If I needed any of those I may be tempted at $500.
bob
Thanks Bob. Also has the cast iron wheel weights and he put new engine mounts and brake springs. Overall seems clean underneath for the age. Tractor data lists value between 600 and 900 and figured if I could sell the sweeper and cart for maybe 100 to 150 then 700 for all equivalent to around 550 to 600. Of course I'd have to sell cart and sweeper. Sweeper actually in very good condition so maybe I could get more just not sure. These older JD garden tractors seem to go fast on Craig's List.
mass_burner
Minister of Fire
I don't think that is a terrible deal. Thing is, if you don't need those attachments, it sucks paying for them. Can you make an off on just the tractor?
Surveyor
Member
I have owned a 314 now for about 15 years. The only thing I have put into it is motor mounts, starter and new seat.
In the photos you have attached what are the 2 bolt looking things on each side of the hood?
It looks like it is in good shape. Same floorboard rust I have going. It's too bad hour meters weren't standard on them.
In the photos you have attached what are the 2 bolt looking things on each side of the hood?
It looks like it is in good shape. Same floorboard rust I have going. It's too bad hour meters weren't standard on them.
Surveyor
Member
It is a model 80 and yes I see that they certainly can go for a premium of $100 to $700 depending on condition. Same for the T38 sweeper. I am tempted even if to clean up and sell the attachments to offset the cost of the tractor. Those silver things are attachment bolts. Ones that were there were replaced. Well what do you guys think. He doesn't want to sell just tractor but think I can make money on those. Another guy coming to look at it tomorrow so think I gotta make a decision rather quickly.
Surveyor
Member
Model 80 is the holy grail of the JD carts. I know nothing about the sweeper.
I say buy it.
One thing I will say is that mine has never liked to start when the engine is hot. It has never failed to start but in case that one does the same thing thought I'd let you know.
I say buy it.
One thing I will say is that mine has never liked to start when the engine is hot. It has never failed to start but in case that one does the same thing thought I'd let you know.
The only hidden issue with these is a possible worn out steering column. They will be a bit stiff to turn until you get close to the limit, and then they get really hard to turn. Ususally all they need is grease (the grease nipples are a bear to get to and this is often skipped), but if you have to rebuild you pull the engine to pull the column.
The 314 is part of the 1--, 2--, 3--, 4-- series tractors and there are roughly a gazillion out there. These are arguably the best built lawn tractors ever made; they were seriously over-designed. If you wanted to go through one and replace all worn parts you could use it two or three times a week for the next 30 years. And someone could probably do it again.
It will run the 36" deck almost effortlessly, but has no problem with the 46" deck either.
Value? It would be easy to get $700 worth of work out of a well kept one.
The 314 is part of the 1--, 2--, 3--, 4-- series tractors and there are roughly a gazillion out there. These are arguably the best built lawn tractors ever made; they were seriously over-designed. If you wanted to go through one and replace all worn parts you could use it two or three times a week for the next 30 years. And someone could probably do it again.
It will run the 36" deck almost effortlessly, but has no problem with the 46" deck either.
Value? It would be easy to get $700 worth of work out of a well kept one.
OK now stop and think for a second here. Surveyor has had his for 15 years and it's still going strong. I have a Cub cadet from the mid 70's that will run circles around most any new garden tractors. $700 is not a bad price and most tractors from that era are built like tanks. That was actually their downfall, they were built TOO good and would run forever so people would not have to buy another one.
Thanks for the positive feedback. All excellent points. I am picking up the GT and attachments tomorrow night.
Any of you guys either have an electronic copy of the 314 tractor manual or know where I can find one online? Thanks.
Surveyor
Member
I do not have electronic copy. I assume you are talking about the owners manual and not the repair manual.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I get my info from Weekend Freedom Machines. Really helpful folks. They've steered me right before, whether to manuals, or just to the answer I need. http://www.wfmachines.com/forums/forum.php
This site has a miscellaneous assortment that doesn't seem to have the 314 tractor manual, but has others you might eventually find interesting.
http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/
I think you did fine for $700. I think the bigger question is whether you are am interested in working on an older tractor when it needs some TLC. If that's ok, then I think these older tractors are great. If you have more money than time, a newer one might have been the way to go. Either way, you could turn around and sell it if you wanted to, even at a slight loss, without much pain.
Yeah looking for the owners manual as I am trying to level deck and figure out height adjustment procedure/operation. A bit confusing relative to what I am used to.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Pretty common question seen at WFM, do a search over there and you'll find the guidance. But I agree with your interest for a manual, you'll want one sooner or later so might as well be sooner.
I'm not as familiar with the 314, but I bet the procedure is roughly:
-park on level ground/concrete
-cycle the lift lever to release rockshaft cylinder pressure.
-set deck wheels to desired nominal height (2.5", 3", etc.)
-adjust rockshaft stop until front deck wheels are about 1/4" off the ground.
-adjust rear deck lift linkages so that the deck is level side to side, and so that the rear of the deck is slightly (1/8") higher than the front of the deck.
-recheck front wheels to be about 1/4" off level ground, and that the rockshaft cylinder is relieved of pressure. Repeat process if necessary.
Measure blade height, not deck wheels, since the blade height is what determines the height of your cut, and the wheels might be off a bit compared to your blades.
Again, I don't have a 314, but I think it's pretty similar to my 322.
Surveyor
Member
Problem is when I have the front and rear wheels adjusted at say the position for 2" the front wheels are much lower to the ground than the rear wheels. I think I need to first adjust what I think are called the draft rods attached to the front of the deck to lift the nose of the deck to better level. These are like threaded rods. I believe this as when I lowner the deck the front wheels hit first then settles a bit before rear wheels hit. Lastly trying to figure out the height adjustment knob and wing piece up top for 'height adjustment, I believe this piece acts like a height 'stop' when lowering deck but hard to see how it functions and not sure if I should tighten the wing against knob or against sleeve over threaded rod.
Surveyor
Member
It may be that the draft arms do need adjustment. This should be a once in a lifetime thing. Maybe it's never been right. One thing to make sure of is the tire pressure. Get a quality, low pressure tire gage. You would be amazed at how much this affects the deck.
As for the height adjustment knob, loosen the wing nut. Turn the knob the direction you need per the sticker below it. Once satisfied with the height, tighten the wing nut all the way down against the sleeve.
As for the height adjustment knob, loosen the wing nut. Turn the knob the direction you need per the sticker below it. Once satisfied with the height, tighten the wing nut all the way down against the sleeve.
mass_burner
Minister of Fire
mass_burner
Minister of Fire
Parts may be available for these, but finding an attachment you want could be impossible. I've been looking for a plow blade or snow thrower for a few years now for my 170.
Surveyor
Member
Snowblowers and blades for these seem to be readily available in my area. Most blowers will need to have the bearings replaced if they have never been done.
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