Johnson energy stove

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Stephen_Davis

New Member
Dec 14, 2019
10
61109
I have 2 garages with stoves that are of different styles. The smaller garage has a century S244. Great stove to watch but small for an uninsulated garage.

The larger garage has an old Johnson Energy Stove/furnace which I love but is a hungry son of a gun. This was installed in the garage when we bought the house. I need to add 3Ft to the flue it terminates to close to the ridge line.

My question is about stove temps on this unit. I have added two pictures. They have a magnetic temp gauge on the back above the flue exit. Fully stocked and fired temp with blower on hovers around the 300* mark but the temp gauge on the face is reading closer to 900*.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Is the temp difference normal? Am I over stocking the fire causing the front plate to get hotter?
 

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If the thermometer is correct, then yes, the stove is being overfired. That's why the paint has gone grey.
 
It's okay to take that area up to 750º. Remember that the flue temp readings are surface readings. Inside the flue gas is about twice as hot so a 300º surface reading can be 600º inside the stove pipe.
 
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In addition watch your clearances. That stove needs 36" clearance to combustibles and 18" to the pipe. The pipe should not be galvanized. And using a solid fuel burning appliance in a garage is a code violation
 
In addition watch your clearances. That stove needs 36" clearance to combustibles and 18" to the pipe. The pipe should not be galvanized. And using a solid fuel burning appliance in a garage is a code violation


If this was a new build or install you would be correct. This install was done and permitted before that code was adopted. Clearance is acceptable and appropriate. Not pictured is the removable none combustible metal wall that goes behind the stove. Code enforcement, fire marshal, and insurance are all on the same page.

Why would you not use normal duct work for the heat output for the blower?

Fire department literally next door.
 

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If this was a new build or install you would be correct. This install was done and permitted before that code was adopted. Clearance is acceptable and appropriate. Not pictured is the removable none combustible metal wall that goes behind the stove. Code enforcement, fire marshal, and insurance are all on the same page.

Why would you not use normal duct work for the heat output for the blower?

Fire department literally next door.
I am sorry I didn't realize that was ductwork ontop yes that is fine. When we're the stoves installed and when did you buy the property?
 
I am sorry I didn't realize that was ductwork ontop yes that is fine. When we're the stoves installed and when did you buy the property?


House was built in 1940's. We bought the house 2 years ago. I don't remember off hand what year was on the permit for the stove. They do require us to keep 4 fire extinguishers in the garage(one at each corner), and a fire/co2 detector. We did sign agreements with insurance that cars cant be in garage when in use and a fire cabinet for storage of chemicals.

As for the small garage with the newer century stove. It has it's own lot number. At some point the house with it was torn down. City property codes states no property can have garage without a dwelling. All city paperwork names it as a workshop and the solid fuel in a garage does not apply.
 

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House was built in 1940's. We bought the house 2 years ago. I don't remember off hand what year was on the permit for the stove. They do require us to keep 4 fire extinguishers in the garage(one at each corner), and a fire/co2 detector. We did sign agreements with insurance that cars cant be in garage when in use and a fire cabinet for storage of chemicals.

As for the small garage with the newer century stove. It has it's own lot number. At some point the house with it was torn down. City property codes states no property can have garage without a dwelling. All city paperwork names it as a workshop and the solid fuel in a garage does not apply.
If the property changed hands 2 years ago the install is not grandfathered in. So yes it is against code. But really the only time that will be an issue is in the event of an insurance claim. If your insurance company gave you those requirements on the install and you follow them you should be protected. Because by giving you stipulations they for all intensive purposes granted you a waiver for the noncompliant install.
 
I have 2 garages with stoves that are of different styles. The smaller garage has a century S244. Great stove to watch but small for an uninsulated garage.

The larger garage has an old Johnson Energy Stove/furnace which I love but is a hungry son of a gun. This was installed in the garage when we bought the house. I need to add 3Ft to the flue it terminates to close to the ridge line.

My question is about stove temps on this unit. I have added two pictures. They have a magnetic temp gauge on the back above the flue exit. Fully stocked and fired temp with blower on hovers around the 300* mark but the temp gauge on the face is reading closer to 900*.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Is the temp difference normal? Am I over stocking the fire causing the front plate to get hotter?
I use to have a Johnson stove just like that and ran it for years. Those stoves are a firebox in a box.
The picture of your temp. gauge on the back looks like it is on the box surrounding the stove next to the flue.
The gauge needs to be on your flue pipe. Also the door is not air tight . I think some of that heat you are reading on the front gauge is coming out of the top of the door. The owners manual stresses not to operate the stove if the fan isn't working.
The heat without the fan cooling the firebox can ruin the stove.
Also the manufacturer recommends a damper in the flue pipe to prevent overfiring.
Hope this helps.
 
If the property changed hands 2 years ago the install is not grandfathered in. So yes it is against code. But really the only time that will be an issue is in the event of an insurance claim. If your insurance company gave you those requirements on the install and you follow them you should be protected. Because by giving you stipulations they for all intensive purposes granted you a waiver for the noncompliant install.


A property only has to be code for the time it was built, unless changes are made. Just like all new built buildings have to have ten year batteries in smoke detectors, that doesnt make all older smoke detectors against code in previous built homes.
 
I use to have a Johnson stove just like that and ran it for years. Those stoves are a firebox in a box.
The picture of your temp. gauge on the back looks like it is on the box surrounding the stove next to the flue.
The gauge needs to be on your flue pipe. Also the door is not air tight . I think some of that heat you are reading on the front gauge is coming out of the top of the door. The owners manual stresses not to operate the stove if the fan isn't working.
The heat without the fan cooling the firebox can ruin the stove.
Also the manufacturer recommends a damper in the flue pipe to prevent overfiring.
Hope this helps.


As I understand temp gauge won't read right on double wall pipe. As for a box in a box as far as I can tell that is partly true. The front and back seem to be face plate with the box entering air flow from below up the sides and out the top.

My fan is functioning and so is the temp switch. I just replaced the fan yesterday as the old one was starting to vibrate the stove.
 
As I understand temp gauge won't read right on double wall pipe. As for a box in a box as far as I can tell that is partly true. The front and back seem to be face plate with the box entering air flow from below up the sides and out the top.

My fan is functioning and so is the temp switch. I just replaced the fan yesterday as the old one was starting to vibrate the stove.
I see, mine may have been a different model.
 
A property only has to be code for the time it was built, unless changes are made. Just like all new built buildings have to have ten year batteries in smoke detectors, that doesnt make all older smoke detectors against code in previous built homes.
Never mind good luck to you
 
I can't even find a model number. I do know this is earlier than the ones that had the damper control on the door.
Mine was bought in the early 80s.
The reason I thought it was like my old one, was the back picture.
There is no weld around the vent pipe. Looks like it is coming through sheet metal.
Mine was also a wood hog even with the damper on the vent pipe closed.
 
Mine was bought in the early 80s.
The reason I thought it was like my old one, was the back picture.
There is no weld around the vent pipe. Looks like it is coming through sheet metal.
Mine was also a wood hog even with the damper on the vent pipe closed.

After closer inspection I see what you are saying. I will have to measure and see how much of an air gap there is back there.

I don't have a damper but with the vents closed she dies down quick or runs out of wood before she gets hot.
 
After closer inspection I see what you are saying. I will have to measure and see how much of an air gap there is back there.

I don't have a damper but with the vents closed she dies down quick or runs out of wood before she gets hot.
You are probably ok I had a 32 ft. chimney.