it's a little that was whirling in my head. I removed the deflector, and applied some bricks between the secondary air and the superior heat shield, to continue secondary flame and to have direct fire under the top of the stove. looks much better, even especially after hours with lots of coals, I can't be as close to the stove as before. I know of the risks but in any case I always go with a moderate flame. comments welcome
jotul 500 is hotter without deflector?
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in my model the second air comes from the back side of the stove, air comes towards the front glass. Baffle my case are two piece of refractory, therefore no metal pipes for air
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
The F400 ECO does have a series secondary burn ports at the back, just under the baffle. Air is also supplied to the fire at the front via the air wash for the stove glass. Removing the baffle turns this stove into a wasteful smoke dragon ala 1970. It's a bad idea. The only thing that gets hotter is the stovepipe and chimney with the wasted heat going up the flue.
thank you. I would have liked a hybrid, ie always have second fire, but stove top direct up the fire, and coals when the fire ends, like VC if i'm not mistaken. what do you think instead about side shields, I have removed both!
I think you bought the wrong stove. It has been turned into a WWI stove. The side shields are important for the clearance of the stove and its longevity. It needs 1 meter clearances all around without the shields. Do not be surprised when it starts cracking on the sides.
This is nothing at all like a VC stove.
This is nothing at all like a VC stove.
thank you! in the end baffle was put again because it's not easy for me to get what i want but side shields definitely won't put again, considering max 500f temp on top corner, it's not excessive. I have a valve that releases excessive draft, I shouldn't stress the sides much
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
If you are only getting 500F stove top temp’s by removing the baffle something is wrong. It could be draft related, install related, or wood related, or something else. Do you want help from the forum trying troubleshoot what’s wrong? We’re happy to help.
I don’t think anyone here would say you have solved the problem by removing the baffle. The stove should work as designed.
I don’t think anyone here would say you have solved the problem by removing the baffle. The stove should work as designed.
Thank you very much!
Looking my video what do you think about that fire?
I mean too slow, too fast. Apprecciate comment about.
I have elm tree, which here in IT it is considered very slow wood, short flame,
i know is not the max for high temp, but good for long time of burn.
Humidity i do not know, it has 15 months about, but for sure is not very dry
Instead of messing with the stove configuration, maybe seek out better quality firewood. That will make a significant improvement. If there is a construction site nearby, get some framing stud cutoffs and mix them in with the partially seasoned firewood.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
From what I saw.
I saw a small fire. 1/2 load or less of wood. Enough heat to get secondary combustion without the baffle but I’m guessing you would have seen that much with the baffle. Where do you keep your air lever during the burn?
I load my firebox clear full. I light my fires top down with lots of small kindling. A stove like your 2/3 to 3/4 of cord wood the rest kindling and a fire starter on top.
Two summers split and stacked I think would be the minimum time for an average climate. What is your climate like?
I saw a small fire. 1/2 load or less of wood. Enough heat to get secondary combustion without the baffle but I’m guessing you would have seen that much with the baffle. Where do you keep your air lever during the burn?
I load my firebox clear full. I light my fires top down with lots of small kindling. A stove like your 2/3 to 3/4 of cord wood the rest kindling and a fire starter on top.
Two summers split and stacked I think would be the minimum time for an average climate. What is your climate like?
yes I actually have a lot of material that you say, fir boards, from carpentry, old, to burn. I just use a little for starting sometimes, It's something that's really not durable. the tests that I do are aimed at many things, including charging time keep an eye on temperatures. As far as I can see, with few flames I have a higher temperature without baffles and also without fire, with coals only. I know it's very stupid to modify something studied, but I always keep an eye out even if I see smoke or simply steam from the flue
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Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
My recommendation-Burn the stove as designed. If wood is the issue, work on that part.
I live in central Italy, middle area at most we have -10 celsius but it's difficult. Without baffle I can do as you say. Fire top down and lots of wood in the stove. The stove runs, maximum secondary air and I also have a wire of air that comes from under. In reality it is a house that I am renovating and a wood stove is foreseen as heating but also predisposed for a heat pump. Anyway yes, my father has excellent seasoned oak and it works better but I still have to see with a thermometer
You are most likely going to damage the stove running long term without a baffle
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
I call them as I see them. Good luck running your stove as you are.
If you have good seasoned oak, your best bet would be to run the stove as designed- with the baffle- not play around and post about it.
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after further tests, baffle will be put in his place. I think it is right to be convinced, and to have the opportunity to ask for advice. It is not certain that something made by a certain brand will be the best thing for the end user, or maybe better to avoid warranty service?!
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
A lot has to do with warranty. Also, don’t want you to damage stove for no reason. Glad you thought about it and made the decision that was best for you. I take back my troll comment, lol. Happy new year.
The removal of the side burn plates definitely voids the warranty and will affect the longevity of the stove.
it could certainly affect the duration of the stove, but I am unable to see them (shields) even with the insulation in the gap. However as Begreen says, shields are essential if you have anything flammable nearby. My crate of bricks, reaches 100 degrees ( celsius ) but it's not something structural, and I want to create some convection in this way. Happy New Year and happy warming up to all
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