Jotul 606 Refurb

[begreen]

In my 602 before I rebuilt it, a gap developed between baffle and the back wall due to the baffle warping. That gap really messed up the burn, overheating the back and cracking it. The replacement baffle sealed well to the arch on the back. In this case, it looks like on the 606 there is no arch for the rear of the baffle to sit on due to the high flue outlet. I'd seal the gap as best as possible.

 

[bigealta]

Nice Work Todd, Looks really nice.

 

[Todd]

In my 602 before I rebuilt it, a gap developed between baffle and the back wall due to the baffle warping. That gap really messed up the burn, overheating the back and cracking it. The replacement baffle sealed well to the arch on the back. In this case, it looks like on the 606 there is no arch for the rear of the baffle to sit on due to the high flue outlet. I'd seal the gap as best as possible.

Yeah according to Dhermit that’s the way it way it was built. Wasn’t the most efficient like most stoves of the 70’s. I’ll probably play around with it and stuff some gasket in there. Might even throw some kind of deflector block in front of the rear exhaust to help slow down the draft if needed.

 

[Todd]

With the firebrick the firebox cu ft comes out to about .9 cu ft so about the same as the 602 but I have 17” to the door so that’s an inch better. Can’t wait to fire it up and see how she does.

 

[Todd]

Little kindling fire this morning.

 

[stovelark]

Man the old girl looks wonderful. Hope she burns as well as she looks. Amazing what some time, effort and paint can produce. That is a very nice old looker.

 

[Todd]

Did another breakin fire this morning. Just some larger kindling. This thing really throws the heat!

 

[bigealta]

So is the top part just an open smoke space that acts as a radiator?

And if so does, that pose the cooling smoke problems?

Is that thermometer on single or double wall?

 

[Todd]

So is the top part just an open smoke space that acts as a radiator?

And if so does, that pose the cooling smoke problems?

Is that thermometer on single or double wall?

Yes the top is just an open space. The rear top of the arch has a baffle that I made more air tight with a gasket so the exhaust has a harder longer time to make its way back down to the front and out the top front then out the back. I also stuck some soapstone blocks I had in front of the exhaust to create a little more turbulence. The top just lifts off and is gasketed, no bolts so easy access.

With this medium kindling load it burned surprisingly clean, no smoke out the chimney til I choked the air down less than 1/4 open. That bottom arch plate is right above the fire and gets a little hotter than I’d like but it’s pretty thick. It will be interesting to see how it burns with a normal load of splits.

Yes double wall pipe to the ceiling then class A. About 14’ total.

 

[EbS-P]

If I had a cabin I have one of these or a 2b classic.

 

[Todd]

Changed out the old door for a 602 glass door. I had to drill the 602 door hinge hole just a tad larger so the 606 pins would fit. The 602 door gasket is also too snug so changed it to a size smaller for a good fit.

 

[Todd]

Lined the whole firebox with firebrick.

 

[EbS-P]

Lined the whole firebox with firebrick.

I wonder what effect that has on flue gas temps?

 

[begreen]

Neatly done. What is retaining the side bricks?

 

[Todd]

I wonder what effect that has on flue gas temps?

I shall find out this Fall. Only had a couple small kindling fires so far. Hopefully it will boost efficiency and keep some coals longer.

 

[Todd]

Neatly done. What is retaining the side bricks?

Stove cement. Not sure if it will hold up but they are slightly angled away and are pretty tight so hoping they won’t fall in.

 

[begreen]

I'm looking forward to seeing how she performs this winter.

 

[Todd]

This is concerning to me! A small fire with some 2x4 scraps and one small piece of Oak. Seems pretty hot right there while the rest of the stove temps are ok. Internal flue temps barely climb over 400 but it burns clean.

 

[begreen]

I'm wondering if the glass door is a bit too leaky? On our 602, I have to close the air down almost all the way once the fire is burning well.

 

[Todd]

I'm wondering if the glass door is a bit too leaky? On our 602, I have to close the air down almost all the way once the fire is burning well.

Actually with the glass door seems to let in less air than the solid door. I’m wondering if it’s the firebricks radiating the heat above the firebox more? Maybe the old cast iron side plates let more heat radiate through the sides? I’ll have to closely monitor this area when I start having real fires. Not much info on 606 burning temps out there.

 

[bigealta]

Yes, i'd bet the now non exposed steel sides are adding enough heat to the fire box to raise the temps on that spot significantly.
When my friends 602 side burn plates gave out i cut him some 1/4" plate steel to replace those trashed oem cast side burn plates. We just leaned them against the sides. Worked well and i'd bet let the firebox run cooler and more to the original specs vs using firebricks.

 

[begreen]

It may be that the airwash is supplying secondary air to unburnt gases on top of the baffle causing secondary combustion to occur above it. If so, the flue gases may need more residence time in the firebox in order to burn up before making the trip around front of the baffle. Injection of some secondary air under the baffle toward the rear might help, but that would take some experimenting. It has me wondering if this is why this stove had the loose fit and gap at the back of the baffle unlike the snug fit of the 602 baffle.

 

[Todd]

It may be that the airwash is supplying secondary air to unburnt gases on top of the baffle causing secondary combustion to occur above it. If so, the flue gases may need more residence time in the firebox in order to burn up before making the trip around front of the baffle. Injection of some secondary air under the baffle toward the rear might help, but that would take some experimenting. It has me wondering if this is why this stove had the loose fit and gap at the back of the baffle unlike the snug fit of the 602 baffle.

Yes I was thinking about that too. I used some gasket to tighten up that gap. I may have to remove that.

 

[Todd]

So it was 40 degrees this morning and I took advantage of that for another break in fire in the 606. Before I fired up I took off the gasket that I installed around that rear upper baffle to see how that affects the temps. Also checked the JB Welds inside and so far they are holding.

I started off with kindling and a couple small splits. After it was down to coals I loaded 3 splits of Oak or about 2/3 full load. Took right off and when my flue temps hit 500 I closed the air down to just a smidge open. There is some secondary burn going on in there especially around the door where the air wash is. Very little to no smoke out the chimney. That center plate looks better now and peaked at 700 about an hour in. It’s like a sauna in my workshop with the windows and door open!😂

 

[begreen]

Mo betta