Jotul 8 Rear Flue to Top Flue

[zaroot]

Found a nice Jotul 8 (1980-1990 pre-catalytic, draft wheel on front door) and would like to get it to replace by steel Englander air tight. Finished basement is about 1300SF, and will radiate to upper floor (single story rancher).

The stove is currently a rear flue, but from what I have seen, has the possibility to swap to a top flue (which I need due to bend counts and offset distances). I found a free 5 page "manual" but it doesnt have any of this information or pictorials.

The first picture is the stove I'd like to buy.
The second picture is what I need it to become (top exit with 7" adapter)

Thank you

 

[Todd]

I believe Woodsman Parts Plus has that flue adapter and other parts.

 

[zaroot]

I believe Woodsman Parts Plus has that flue adapter and other parts.

Yes the 7-to-8 or 7-to-6 pipe can be sourced. More looking into the physical means to swap from a rear to a top exit. Do you smash out the round casting in the top plate and cement something in?

 

[begreen]

Yes, it's a knockout that one carefully chips away to remove. Then a blankout plate is bolted to cover the other exit hole. The F3CB manual has more explicit instructions on page 4.

Which Englander stove would this be replacing. The Englander may actually perform better depending on the model.

 

[Todd]

That model may not have the knockout plate. Can you reach in the rear exhaust and feel up under the top plate near the top exhaust. There may be some bolts or nuts holding the exhaust plate in place?

 

[begreen]

I'm pretty sure it does. It's mentioned in the manual and shows up in the parts diagram. The good news is that it may not need to be knocked out.

4) Flue outlet. All model 3 stoves are delivered with the top
outlet covered. To top vent the stove, remove the outlet
over and traverse bar and replace them in the rear outle!

 

[D. Hermit]

I'm pretty sure it does. It's mentioned in the manual and shows up in the parts diagram. The good news is that it may not need to be knocked out.

4) Flue outlet. All model 3 stoves are delivered with the top
outlet covered. To top vent the stove, remove the outlet
over and traverse bar and replace them in the rear outle!

This is way before knockouts. The stove is question is an Orginal 8, same design as the Orginal 3 you are talking about. These are both bolt and switch, but gasket and broken bolts can be a problems.

The bolts break in the covers all the time when you try and remove them. I don't think they make the form gasket that you need, I have some that will work though.

 

[zaroot]

Picked the stove up last night. No knockouts required. The top plate was held in with a cross-brace casting, which is broken. Seems I can order a new one for $7. Does the top of the stove just bear on the lower with gravity? Rope gasket for seal? Will switch the rear 3 bolt outlet to the top and put the blank off plate/cross-brace on the rear. Will reseal the castings with some stove cement and give the exterior a paint job.

 

[zaroot]

Yes, it's a knockout that one carefully chips away to remove. Then a blankout plate is bolted to cover the other exit hole. The F3CB manual has more explicit instructions on page 4.

Which Englander stove would this be replacing. The Englander may actually perform better depending on the model.

13-NC. Great stove, just looking to switch over to cast iron. The airtight steel stoves with firebricks just don't hold the coals in my opinion. Took some rough measurements last night and the Jotul does appear to have a slightly bigger fire box. I also like the Jotul cast log retainer, keeps them from rolling out if reloading mid burn. And of course the Jotul simply looks better. Both are non-catalytic stoves, but the Englander did have secondary burn tubes and was a relatively clean burner. Will be losing the integral convection room blower, but it wasn't that powerful to begin with (has always been supplemented with a box fan).

 

[begreen]

The older model 3 will likely use more wood with a shorter burn time than the 13-NC. I had an F3CB and max time was 6 hrs, with 3-4 hrs between reloads more common. I don't consider it an overnight stove. Steel stoves do fine with overnight burns if the firebox is large enough.

 

[zaroot]

The older model 3 will likely use more wood with a shorter burn time than the 13-NC. I had an F3CB and max time was 6 hrs, with 3-4 hrs between reloads more common. I don't consider it an overnight stove. Steel stoves do fine with overnight burns if the firebox is large enough.

Yes the 3 are smaller. I bought an 8.

 

[bigealta]

is that black or blue/black?
It looks like my old jotul 3 that was blue/black.
If blue black don't paint it. It's a baked on finish

 

[bigealta]

And get that screw out of the door hinge. At least put a proper size nail in there till you get a proper hinge pin. The screw will gouge out the hinge holes and screw your stove up.

 

[bigealta]

if you end up liking that #8 stove and ever run into a used jotul F400 that would be a nice upgrade if staying with jotul.

 

[zaroot]

is that black or blue/black?
It looks like my old jotul 3 that was blue/black.
If blue black don't paint it. It's a baked on finish

It’s black paint for sure. Dirty and has some rust on top. Will refinish

 

[zaroot]

And get that screw out of the door hinge. At least put a proper size nail in there till you get a proper hinge pin. The screw will gouge out the hinge holes and screw your stove up.

Just temporary so door doesn’t sag. 2 new pins have been ordered

 

[begreen]

Yes the 3 are smaller. I bought an 8.

Sorry, I don't know why I got off on the model 3. The 8 is larger, but only to about the size of the 13-NC, and the 13-NC has much better secondary combustion. The model 8 will be more radiant. Pay attention to the increased clearance requirements.

 

[zaroot]

The top baffle, can’t seem to get it to sit correctly. Exterior side pieces have a single ledge towards the top. If I set the curved top baffle in flush with the rear lower plate lip, the baffle sits up higher than the ledges. If I sit the baffle on the ledges, then the bottom lip of the baffle doesn’t seat into rear lower plate lip. Anyone have pictures of this installed with their top off? Thanks

 

[zaroot]

Back lip seated


Below side flange


Back lip sitting above, no longer flush


But now wings of baffle side on side flange

 

[Todd]

Could be the baffle and or exhaust collar is a little warped. They take a lot of heat and don’t last forever. Just a little warpage can make these cast iron parts not fit tightly. You may be able to grind parts of them for a better fit? Are new parts still available? If not maybe a local welding shop could make a steel baffle?