Jotul Castine Burning Unevenly

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

I need some advice on my Castine.

I've been burning this stove for three years and recently I've noticed it burning more strongly on the right side of the stove. More flame, more secondaries, faster ignition, etc. From what I've read on past threads, it sounds like a gasket issue.

All my gaskets are in good shape and pass the dollar bill test. However, my top plate has been removed several times for cleaning and sits ever so slightly higher on the front of the stove. When I replace the top plate, it is very difficult to get it perfectly even because the rope gasket in between it and the stove body wants to shift. I'm assuming I should keep it in place with some gasket cement to avoid this.

Does this all sound about right? If so, where should the top plate gasket sit exactly? Right on the lip of the stove body or is there a channel it sits in that I can't seem to locate?

Thanks!

 

[webby3650]

I need some advice on my Castine.

I've been burning this stove for three years and recently I've noticed it burning more strongly on the right side of the stove. More flame, more secondaries, faster ignition, etc. From what I've read on past threads, it sounds like a gasket issue.

All my gaskets are in good shape and pass the dollar bill test. However, my top plate has been removed several times for cleaning and sits ever so slightly higher on the front of the stove. When I replace the top plate, it is very difficult to get it perfectly even because the rope gasket in between it and the stove body wants to shift. I'm assuming I should keep it in place with some gasket cement to avoid this.

Does this all sound about right? If so, where should the top plate gasket sit exactly? Right on the lip of the stove body or is there a channel it sits in that I can't seem to locate?

Thanks!

The gasket doesn't have a channel to sit in. It can be a real pita to get just right. I put the baffle in place, then lift the front up and stick the gaskets in place. It can take several tries to get them correct. The baffle should sit flat when it's correct.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Th

The gasket doesn't have a channel to sit in. It can be a real pita to get just right. I put the baffle in place, then lift the front up and stick the gaskets in place. It can take several tries to get them correct. The baffle should sit flat when it's correct.

Thanks but I'm referring to the top plate of the stove. It sounds like you are referring to the secondary combustion plate. Is this the case?

 

[webby3650]

Th

Thanks but I'm referring to the top plate of the stove. It sounds like you are referring to the secondary combustion plate. Is this the case?

Yes, I'm referring to the baffle. Do you take the top off the stove when you clean it? Why?

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Yes, I'm referring to the baffle. Do you take the top off the stove when you clean it? Why?

Yes. Removing the top allows you to access the top of the secondary plate and clean out the pipe.

 

[webby3650]

The castine has a removable baffle, it's designed to be removed for cleaning. I much prefer dropping the baffle over removing the top.

 

[begreen]

When I didn't get the F3 top on right I had these symptoms. If viewed from the side you could see the top wasn't sitting right.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

When I didn't get the F3 top on right I had these symptoms. If viewed from the side you could see the top wasn't sitting right.

That's what I am observing. The front is about 1-2mm higher than the rear.

 

[begreen]

That sounds like the problem. Pop the top and look for any physical reason for this. Maybe a chunk of creosote got stuck in the gasket, lid or stove body? If none, then try positioning it slightly differently. If the stove is cold you could use the bolt hole alignment as a guide. If that doesn't work, put a straight edge on it and make sure it hasn't warped.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

That sounds like the problem. Pop the top and look for any physical reason for this. Maybe a chunk of creosote got stuck in the gasket, lid or stove body? If none, then try positioning it slightly differently. If the stove is cold you could use the bolt hole alignment as a guide. If that doesn't work, put a straight edge on it and make sure it hasn't warped.

Thanks for all the advice. I am going to replace the gasket under the top of the stove for good measure. The gasket seem to have a channel it sits in along each side and the front. However, the back portion of the stove does not. Should I just mount the gasket directly on top of the ridge or to the inside?

 

[begreen]

I thought the gasket attached to the top plate, but could be wrong. It's been over a decade since I had the top off.

 

[webby3650]

I thought the gasket attached to the top plate, but could be wrong. It's been over a decade since I had the top off.

Im pretty sure that is correct. I have never needed to pull the top off, since the baffle is easily removable.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

I thought the gasket attached to the top plate, but could be wrong. It's been over a decade since I had the top off.

That would explain it. The gasket has residual cement on the body of the stove but it makes sense that it was originally cemented to the top plate itself.

I am very thankful for the help.

 

[nola mike]

Not to jack the thread, but curious if this is the same design of my f602 and might cause the same symptoms. I have my cook plate cemented to the stove top. It's in the exhaust path though, so I figured that any air leak would go up the chimney and not contribute to the burn?

 

[begreen]

That would explain it. The gasket has residual cement on the body of the stove but it makes sense that it was originally cemented to the top plate itself.

I am very thankful for the help.

It's been many years. Is there a gasket channel all the way around the underside of the top plate?

 

[webby3650]

Not to jack the thread, but curious if this is the same design of my f602 and might cause the same symptoms. I have my cook plate cemented to the stove top. It's in the exhaust path though, so I figured that any air leak would go up the chimney and not contribute to the burn?

The 602 has a cemented down top, no gasket. There is no reason to seal down your cooktop plate.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

It's been many years. Is there a gasket channel all the way around the underside of the top plate?

There is a channel all the way around the underside of the top plate. I got confirmation from my dealer that that is the correct way to go about it. Cement a new gasket in the channel all the way around the underside of the top plate, let dry, and then put the top back on.

 

[begreen]

Could be someone put too much cement on the top plate gasket and it oozed. Clean off the cement you are seeing on the stove body. Then check and see if the top is sitting level and true.

 

[nola mike]

The 602 has a cemented down top, no gasket. There is no reason to seal down your cooktop plate.

Whoops, for some reason I've been reading this thread as saying top plate=cook top. Carry on, carry on...

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Could be someone put too much cement on the top plate gasket and it oozed. Clean off the cement you are seeing on the stove body. Then check and see if the top is sitting level and true.

What do you use to scrape the cement off the stove body? I would have gone at my Riteway with a screwdriver but want to be a bit more careful with the Jotul.

 

[begreen]

A medium and a small screwdriver and a wire brush is what I have always used. Cast is pretty tough, just don't go hammering on it.

 

[webby3650]

Have you considered learning how to remove the baffle rather than pull the top next time?

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Have you considered learning how to remove the baffle rather than pull the top next time?

Removing the top is far easier in my experience. Trying to maneuver the secondary combustion plate out the front door is nearly impossible, let alone making sure it goes back in the correct spot with the baffle plate in the correct spot. Plus you risk damaging it. Replacing the rope gasket around the top plate will also certainly be easier than positioning the flat gaskets under the secondary plate.

I've seen some folks say they can get the secondary plate out without a problem and others, like myself, who consider it not possible. Not sure what the differences in our stoves are.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

A medium and a small screwdriver and a wire brush is what I have always used. Cast is pretty tough, just don't go hammering on it.

Good to know that I don't have to be extra careful.

 

[webby3650]

Removing the top is far easier in my experience. Trying to maneuver the secondary combustion plate out the front door is nearly impossible, let alone making sure it goes back in the correct spot with the baffle plate in the correct spot. Plus you risk damaging it. Replacing the rope gasket around the top plate will also certainly be easier than positioning the flat gaskets under the secondary plate.

I've seen some folks say they can get the secondary plate out without a problem and others, like myself, who consider it not possible. Not sure what the differences in our stoves are.

It takes some finesse, but it's not difficult. Getting it into the correct spot is simple, it only goes in one place...