Jotul Damper Control

[jbrown56]

I've had my stove for about six weeks and the damper control works real hard from half to closed. I read in this forum that someone used powdered graphite to fix it. If you are out there, I would like to know if you applied it in the front slot or if you had to take it apart from the inside.

Thanks Jim

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

My damper control works fine when shutting it down......it is a little harder when I go to slide it open (no biggie). The sliding damper control on the inside of the housing is cast iron (the hood is real easy to take off)......you may just have some slight imperfections that need to be worn off since its so new........just my 2 cents

WoodButcher

 

[begreen]

Give your dealer a call. It appears there were some control arms that weren't formed right and got sticky. Yours has the symptoms. There is a replacement part to fix this. Jotul F500 Air Valve Kit 156828

Jotul Oslo F500 Air Valve & Handle Kit (install with pics)

This is a response to a previous thread that ended 1/1/2014 titled: Improving Sticky Oslo Air Control. At that time there were several people interested in a reported kit that was produced by Jotul to fix the "sticky air lever" problem associated with these stoves. This repair kit is available...

www.hearth.com

 

[ansehnlich1]

I have a Jotul Oslo. I also have had the air control problem, where the lever sticks from half to closed. I spoke to Tom Nevis (sp.?), Jotul Factory Rep. According to Tom, Jotul has only had a few instances (5 or 6) where they have actually made a new lever for a customer. The first recommendation is to remove the air control housing cover and liberally apply graphite to both sides of the iron slide and particularly to the area where the lever passes through the 2 "uprights" on the top of said slide. I personally have been into the air control mechanism 3x thus far. I did not put enough graphite in the first time, and so, I dumped a pretty good amount DIRECTLY TO THE AREA WHERE THE LEVER PASSES THROUGH THE UPRIGHTS ON THE CAST IRON SLIDE and have not had any trouble for several weeks.

Now, Tom also said that Jotul may make a "custom" lever if all other avenues fail, but this is a last resort. There is a concern that if the lever is modified to an excessive degree the iron plate may be forced out of it's channel, and/or jump out of the track. I understand it to be a close tolerance issue.

Tom was extremely helpful. We discussed the possible need to access the air control area several times while the stove is brand new until the chrome lever and "uprights" wear in a bit providing smooth operation. I expect I may be accessing the area a time or two more but for now mine is working fine.

Brad

 

[begreen]

If Jotul has only heard about 5-6 cases, it seems, they all have visited here. That seems a bit unlikely. I suspect that there are more folks with this issue that don't do internet, haven't thought to check here or just think that this is the way it is. Perhaps Jotul should use the stoves reported here as examples to send field reps to investigate. .

 

[ansehnlich1]

If Jotul has only heard about 5-6 cases, it seems, they all have visited here. That seems a bit unlikely. I suspect that there are more folks with this issue that don't do internet, haven't thought to check here or just think that this is the way it is. Perhaps Jotul should use the stoves reported here as examples to send field reps to investigate. .

I agree, over dinner my wife and I spoke a bit about the issue. One would think a stove manufacturer would monitor a site such as this, or at least, someone at Jotul would visit here enough to recognize that possibly there is a problem here. I mentioned this site to my dealer and he indicated he was aware of it. However, as I said, my air control has been fine for several weeks now. I would assume it could/would become a safety issue should one have a good fire going and for some reason that cast iron air control slide in there would jump out of its track.

Not to mention the "quarter" trick, which has been posted here. One must be careful when modifying that chrome lever, the tolerance when shutting the front door is like, within an eighth inch or less, and then there is the removable ash tray in the front, which is a close fit under said lever, and thirdly, pushing that cast iron slide up and over the stop nub could result in a problem too.

 

[snowfreak]

I had (have) the same problem with my 600 Firelight. I replaced the Chrome lever and the internal cast iron slide damper 3 times last year under warranty. My dealer assured me I was the only one with the problem. This year I have the same problem, call the main service center only to find out that there is indeed a problem with the bend of the chrome lever. I was told the new lever is on back order for 8-10 weeks (guess I'm not the only one). What I used last year and am continuing to use this year until the parts come in is a small wooden hammer from one of my Sons play sets. I gently tap the lever where I want it, works great, as a side benefit I don't need to put my gloves on to move the lever anymore. I just hope this new lever takes care of the problem. I'm curious how many Jotul's are affected by this lever.

 

[chad3]

I'm "the guy". There is a problem and the Jotul rep that I know got me a different lever that has a slower bend and is a bit longer as well. This one works much better, sliding open and shut even when hot without using the gloves (few taps and its shut or open).
Good luck, everyone with the problem should contact someone.
Chad

 

[jbrown56]

Hi, thanks to all for your comments. I now use a piece of 3/8 black iron pipe to close it now, but the damper is so stiff it hard to fine tune it. I will contact the dealerand put the ball in his court. All this said, I still really like the stove.

Thanks Jim

 

[bobm]

I had the same problem with my Oslo, could not move the damper lever either way after the install last year. Turns out the front door was resting on the lever when shut and latched. When the door was open the lever moved effortlessly. I put two small washers under each door hinge to raise the door about 1/16". The problem went away.

Bob

 

[jeff in pa]

My Oslo is doing this too. The strange thing is that it was perfect when new. Now its about 10 months old. It just got more and more drag over time. It makes it really hard to make subtle changes. I have also resorted to the "tap method".

I have not tried the graphite yet but I'll do that next. I looked for burrs and casting marks that might be causing the drag, didn't really find any. I concentrated on the underside where the slider rides. I'll take a close look at where the chrome rod goes through the "posts".

Anyone get one of the "new" rods yet??

JD in PA

 

[menchhofer]

I have also had problems with the draft control on the Oslo 500. I called my dealer who knew nothing of the problem.

I then called Jotul (tech support)and was informed the lever control is of "epidemic proportions" with this model. There is a problem with the lever as you all know. They are currently out of the new lever they have fabricated and I was placed on the "list" to be shipped when it becomes available.

I again called my dealer and informed him. He contacted his rep and the rep told him he knew nothing about it. So I guess there are reps who are not being given current information.

Call this number 207.797.5912 Jotul Portland Main

 

[snowfreak]

I thought the Castine(400) the Oslo(500) and the Firelight(600) had been out for quite some time. I wonder if its just the ones made within the last 2 years that are experiencing the problems. If the problem is of (epedemic) proportions its hard to understand how the field rep had never heard of the problem. I'm in the same boat waiting for a new lever. It would appear that I will be into my 3rd heating season before I can operate the stove the way it was designed to be ran. I'm not thourghly convinced this new lever can take care of the problems on all the stoves. For me to damper all the way down which is about the 2nd line on the seashell it takes about 30 taps from a wooden hammer. Its impossible to move it by hand, even with small taps from my finger. I sure would like to find out this heating season if it takes care of it or not.

 

[ansehnlich1]

I thought the Castine(400) the Oslo(500) and the Firelight(600) had been out for quite some time. I wonder if its just the ones made within the last 2 years that are experiencing the problems. If the problem is of (epedemic) proportions its hard to understand how the field rep had never heard of the problem. I'm in the same boat waiting for a new lever. It would appear that I will be into my 3rd heating season before I can operate the stove the way it was designed to be ran. I'm not thourghly convinced this new lever can take care of the problems on all the stoves. For me to damper all the way down which is about the 2nd line on the seashell it takes about 30 taps from a wooden hammer. Its impossible to move it by hand, even with small taps from my finger. I sure would like to find out this heating season if it takes care of it or not.

Have you taken that damper control box off and put a bunch of powdered graphite in there? I put a bunch in along the damper slide channels and especially on top of the control lever where it passes through the two nubs on the slide.

Also, I gotta say, I did the "quarter" adjustment also, as specified on this site. These two items solved my problem.

 

[chad3]

Not trying to butt heads but did you read my post. THERE IS A PROBLEM IN THAT EXACT PLACE The new arm has less bend in the arm so it does not bind as you slide from open to shut.
It works, my wife love the new arm.

 

[ansehnlich1]

Not trying to butt heads but did you read my post. THERE IS A PROBLEM IN THAT EXACT PLACE The new arm has less bend in the arm so it does not bind as you slide from open to shut.
It works, my wife love the new arm.

No problem Chad, ya, I've read the entire thread. I just thought the guy could maybe buy some time with the graphite. My Oslo damper control has the same problem, I think the severity is random, some are worse than others. Maybe some graphite in there would help out.

 

[chad3]

Agreed, it will/may buy some time, but I talked to a rep and he gave me the new arm, so I went with it. Works great.
Hope many others get the new arms. they work great and make Jotul seem as they should when I first was looking for a stove.
Chad

 

[jeff in pa]

All,

Fixed, so far.....

Quick update: I removed the sliding damper and polished the two "domes" or posts where the control lever rides. I used a dremel to do this. I also went back over where the damper slides on the stove body and polished those areas again. I did NOT use a stone, only a felt with some polishing compound.

I didn't have any graphite lube laying around so I simply used a #2 pencil and lubed all the areas I just polished. I also cleaned out some very fine ash that had accumulated in the channels that the damper rides in.

After assembly is was smoootthhh.... ahhhh.....

Still working well after almost a week of 24/7 burning, cool!

BTW, this is the ONLY problem I have had with the stove, otherwise it is perfect for our home.

JD in PA

Oslo 500

 

[menchhofer]

I received the new lever a couple days ago and just now installed it. Even though I do not have a fire at this moment, the new lever works 100 percent better.....not perfect as it should, but darn close.

 

[TheFlame]

My Oslo was installed in July 2002, and has had a sticky air control since new.

Sometimes it slides ok, but mostly it binds up between half and closed as previously described in this thread. I've removed the cover and cleaned it but it doesn't seem to help.

Honestly it doesn't really bother me. If I need to fine-tune the adjustment I just use the removable ash pan handle to tap it to where I need it. I am not going to bother even trying to mess with it, it is not really that big of a deal.

My brother has a F600 that has the same problem last I talked to him about it.

 

[jbrown56]

Hi, Just an update for those who thinking about replacing the damper control lever. Since this is a new stove, I called the dealer about the problem. They ordered a new lever which took about two weeks, came out and installed it yesterday. It took about half an hour, had them put some graphite in the track and now it is operating smooth. Thanks to all for the advice.

Jim

 

[BotetourtSteve]

Another one for SPED (and me).

I'll stop rehashing these "old" posts if someone can help me with links.

Thanks much!

 

[Hanko]

I havnt even fird up my new oslo yet and im allreadt pissed off. howlong has this problem been going on? My stove was built jan 08. are they still leaving the factory with the lever problem. I guess ILL tear mine apart tomorrow and check it out

 

[SPED]

Steve thanks again!! Hey snowfreak, did you ever get your lever? Do you have a part number or any other info I can give to my dealer?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[jbrown56]

Hi, I posted on Jan.26 that my problem was fixed and the lever was working good. After a week and a half, it tightened up again and was worse than before. The repair crew came out again and had to make a couple of custom bends and it's been working good for about two weeks now. From what I could see, there is a slight downward bend at the slide end of the lever and when the lever gets tightened down with the bolt under the ash lip it causes the lever to put down pressure on the slide. They straightened out this bend a little bit. They also shimmed the door with a thin bushing. If you have a new stove, have the dealer take care of it because if you have future problems with the stove the dealer may say that is no longer their problem because you messed with it. They need to be made aware of these problems because it's a fire hazard. Hope this helps.

Jim