Jotul F3 CB replacement inner burn plates

[Rayz67]

Hi there, looking for advice. Recently purchased home with a Jotul F3 CB In poor condition. New to rebuilding wood stoves so any help would be appreciated. Upon inspection back burn plate was cracked and upper air distributor/baffle plate in very poor condition. Got replacement for baffle and rear burn plate. first of all, dry fitting the baffle plate did not even come close. Also should have paid more attention taking it apart.

Do the inner burn plates go back in dry or is furnace cement used on the interior plates?

What base slot does the rear burn plate go in? The slot that the side burn plates go in or sits on the top of the base? If on the base, goes to the bottom of the tang of side plates, all tight but the baffle doesn’t align to the sideplate bolts. in the slot it everything is loose, falls lower and exposes outer shell. Here it is shown in the slot.


Contacted supplier of baffle, and this is a OEM part. They are looking into this further. Any support for this issue is helpful.

 

[EbS-P]

Can you tell where the air channels are that feed the baffle? Anywhere along those I imagine would need cement. Wish I could help on the plate placement. Maybe some else can chime in.

 

[Rayz67]

The back of the outer shell has a gasket profile cast that surrounds the rear air intake and the bottom edge of the baffle/air distributor. You can see it above the inner rear burn plate in this picture. I guess the idea here is to line up the gasket area to the manifold. For that to happen, I either need to lower something or use the bolts and hope for the best.



From where it is now, l think the manifold needs to come down. It also hangs up on the cast exhaust collar. If I drag it back with the mounting bolts, the manifold lifts off the front of the side plates.

This is Side plate question. Bottom plate has two slots at rear. Everything fits really loose but still have a height issue with the manifold. Also rear burnplate seems low. Is there supposed to be that much of a gap?


the rear burn plate could also fit above the rear slot. Sort of in the first slot. This is a tighter fit, but raises the manifold.



I would appreciate any ideas on moving this forward. Do I cement the inner burn plates? How tight does the manifold need to be? Back burn plate it the lower main slot or upper secondary area? How do I deal with manifold alignment? What is the correct way on moving forward.

thank you

 

[404PAPA]

Were you able to get this worked out? I am about to start my rebuild and would appreciate any advise that you might have .
Thanks

 

[defiant3]

Not sure if this was the o.p.'s problem, but when I do these I replace everything. The fit is so tight that even minor disfiguring of the side liners ( for example) can cause problems. The parts are not expensive, so get rear and side liners as well as baffle assembly. Hopefully avoid headaches.

 

[Rayz67]

I used a grinder to shave the top of the side plates until it was a close fit. Probably took off about 1/8”. did not use cement anywhere for the inner burn plates. Once I put the bolts in and pulled it all together it looked better. Went through the seasoning process before first big burn. The unit seems to work OK, have to watch out not to put to much in as it is very easy to overfire this stove. Probably why the original rear burn plate was warped and cracked.

 

[Rayz67]

Should have also mentioned that I was very careful insuring that the gasket and rear intake aligned properly.

 

[404PAPA]

Thanks Guys. I will start this project today. I did get a rear plate (mines cracked) and baffle. I will pay attention of how things come out so I can get it back together. Are you guys saying that if re-assembled correctly I should not need furnace cement for the seams? I am not sure that the right term. where the side and back plates meet and along the bottom of all the plates. Just assemble dry?