jotul f3 cb

[chzuck]

I was reading the thread from 2012 entitled hearth members tell me about the jotul f3 cb.
I Have been using a Ben Franklin made by the Atlanta Stove Works since 1977 to heat my approximately 1100 sq ft rancher. I had fastened fiberglass strips on the bi-fold doors to make it reasonably air tight. I could hold a fire for 12 - 16 hours. The stove is in the living room which faces south. Because off solar heating, I am unable to burn it hot enough and need to clean the pipe monthly during the winter months when I burn continuously. I am looking for another stove to replace Ben. I don't want one with a catalytic device and would like one with secondary air. Like the thread I read above, there is one on Craigslist near me for $500 including insulated pipe. (broken link removed to http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/hsh/4612057529.html)
I understand it is a small stove. My house was new in 1975 and I have replaced all the windows. I was thinking I need a small stove so I can burn it hotter. Do you think the f3cb would work well for my situation?

 

[begreen]

Welcome. The F3cb is a nice small stove, but it is not at all ideal for 24/7 heating. At best you will be reloading the F3CB every 6 hrs, more likely every 4 hrs when it's cold outside. A smaller stove burning hotter is a misconception. Most new stoves cruise at around 500F-650F. What you want for a longer burn is more capacity. 12-16 hrs in an old Atlanta is simply amazing. Do you mean there were still enough coals for a restart at that point? For your sized place, in a non-cat I would look at the Pacific Energy Super 27. In Jotul you would need the F400 or their older series 8 stove (which is catalytic).

Note that modern stoves want dry fuel. Wood must be fully seasoned for best performance.

 

[chzuck]

Welcome. The F3cb is a nice small stove, but it is not at all ideal for 24/7 heating. At best you will be reloading the F3CB every 6 hrs, more likely every 4 hrs when it's cold outside. A smaller stove burning hotter is a misconception. Most new stoves cruise at around 500F-650F. What you want for a longer burn is more capacity. 12-16 hrs in an old Atlanta is simply amazing. Do you mean there were still enough coals for a restart at that point? For your sized place, in a non-cat I would look at the Pacific Energy Super 27. In Jotul you would need the F400 or their older series 8 stove (which is catalytic).

Note that modern stoves want dry fuel. Wood must be fully seasoned for best performance.

Thanks for your insight.
We would load up Ben, let it fire up to 400 degrees pipe temp, close the bottom slides completely, and the damper I installed in the pipe about half. Could be away for 12 hours or more and have just enough embers to bet a fire going again.

Would you recommend any of the Vermont Casting stoves? I would like to pick up something used.

 

[begreen]

The original VC Resolute I and Vigilant were a decent stoves. But given their age it is getting harder to find one in good shape. Rebuilding can put the total price right back into a new stove territory. You might want to also keep your eye open for a Cawley Lemay, Upland, Lange, Morso stove if you are only looking at cast iron. Or get a new steel stove for $650.

 

[chzuck]

The original VC Resolute I and Vigilant were a decent stoves. But given their age it is getting harder to find one in good shape. Rebuilding can put the total price right back into a new stove territory. You might want to also keep your eye open for a Cawley Lemay, Upland, Lange, Morso stove if you are only looking at cast iron. Or get a new steel stove for $650.

Thank you for the other recommendations.
My biggest fear is getting a stove too big. I want to be able to be in the living room where the stove is. I realize the basement would be better place for the stove, but at my age I am not making the big changes that would need to be made. I can always keep using Ben for awhile.

 

[begreen]

What temperature do you typically keep the stove room at when the stove is burning?

It seems like you are really asking for is a catalytic stove. One that can burn steadily at a low heat setting.

 

[chzuck]

What temperature do you typically keep the stove room at when the stove is burning?

It seems like you are really asking for is a catalytic stove. One that can burn steadily at a low heat setting.

I would say between 75 and 80 degrees. I just did not want the added expense of a catalyst. I really don't know too much about them as to care and how long between replacement. You could very well be right. That is why I came to this forum, to learn more about stoves before I buy one. My only experience is with Ben. Sometimes I have draft problems (damp weather when the temp is in the 30's) since my chimney is short and is 8" square. My chimney probably should be 10" for the 8" pipe on Ben.

 

[begreen]

A short chimney can be a devil in milder weather. It's even worse with modern stoves. They are more finely tuned and frequently need a taller chimney.

 

[chzuck]

A short chimney can be a devil in milder weather. It's even worse with modern stoves. They are more finely tuned and frequently need a taller chimney.

The more I learn the more I am inclined to keep Ben. I am sure glad I found this forum to find out all that I did not know.
Another thing that sometimes creates problems with draft is my Radon Mitigation System. I have gone over my basement very carefully and have not found any leaks, but all it takes is many very very small ones and replacing my windows is another factor that hurts draft. After all, what goes out must be replaced by incoming air in the house. If I were younger there are several things I would change, one being cold air intake and two the stove would be in the basement.

 

[firefighterjake]

The more I learn the more I am inclined to keep Ben. I am sure glad I found this forum to find out all that I did not know.
Another thing that sometimes creates problems with draft is my Radon Mitigation System. I have gone over my basement very carefully and have not found any leaks, but all it takes is many very very small ones and replacing my windows is another factor that hurts draft. After all, what goes out must be replaced by incoming air in the house. If I were younger there are several things I would change, one being cold air intake and two the stove would be in the basement.

Ah . . . but when you have a woodstove with a large "glass" front watching that fire from the comfort of your living room easy chair is so much nicer . . . heck, I often turn off the TV in the winter and just watch the fire for a few minutes before heading to bed . . . and sometimes I don't even make it to the bed.

 

[Jags]

There are many stoves on the market that have the option of an OAK (Outside Air Kit). That might very well be the ticket for minimizing your replacement air issue.

 

[chzuck]

Are there any good articles on operating catalytic stoves? Maybe I need to take a good look at these.

 

[begreen]

Attached file is from Woodstock's library. It has a good general overview.

 

[chzuck]

What is your opinion of an Intrepid II stove?

 

[begreen]

It's a decent small cat stove, often overlooked but it's still limited by its small fuel supply. If you want a cat, consider the BlazeKing Sirocco 20 or the Woodstock Keystone for a longer burntime. In non-cat a PE Alderlea T5 is a good fit. It will burn long without overheating.

 

[chzuck]

Many of these stoves I have never heard of, so it is good to hear about them. I am not in a position to spend the kind of money they cost new, but this has expanded my used stove brand search. Thanks for the info.