Jotul f3 clearance help

[Yeat!]

Great site! I ve been searching around for installation ideas for my jotul. I've learned a lot but still haven't seen anything specific to my install. I'd prefer to use 24 ga black pipe In the living space rather than double wall. I'm not sure if I will still need 18 inches to veneer or if that can be reduced. Can someone point me in the direction of a thread that explains the proper backing for veneer in this situation? What to use for spacers etc. ?

Thanks for any help!

 

[begreen]

If the clearance reduction says double wall is needed then that is the best choice. The alternative is to bolt on pipe heat shields. These come as a kit with spacers. But double-wall is a cleaner installation. http://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Group-BM0133-Adjustable-Shield/dp/B000DZQR3Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

What is the reduction you are trying to achieve?

 

[firefighterjake]

Out of curiosity, why do you want to not use double wall?

 

[Yeat!]

Here is what I am looking at. I was hoping for a straight run from stove out through the roof. The second picture is the crawl space that the insulated pipe is running through. If I keep it 2-4inches from the front wall I have about 12 inch clearance to the back wall. Like I said I was hoping to use 24 ga I. The living room but May have been dreaming. What is the clearance from veneer? Still 18 inches? Does double wall pipe still throw a good amount of heat into the living space? Thanks for the info begreen. Heat shields probably aren't for me, but at this point I'm open to anything to get this thing back in the house and running safe and efficiently.

 

[Yeat!]

Typo- I was hoping to use 24 ga in the living room for the extra heat factor. I've never used double wall but have read you don't get nearly the heat from it jake.

 

[firefighterjake]

I've said it before and I'll say it again . . . Get your heat from the woodstove, not the stove pipe. Yes, undoubtedly single wall will give off more heat, but the trade off is clearance requirements, draft (sometimes) and (in some cases) longevity of the pipe. On the flip side, single wall is almost always cheaper when it comes to cost.

Some folks may disagree with me (and that's fine, that's the purpose of this forum), but I've found with a properly sized stove, burning seasoned wood at the right temp your stove will be able to produce all of the heat you need without needing to "scavenge" more heat off the stove pipe. In my own case I warm up the stove, let the secondaries do their thing and then use the heat radiating off the stove heat up the house.

 

[firefighterjake]

By the way . . . forgot to mention . . . welcome to the Hearth.com!

 

[Grisu]

What kind of stove do you want to install? With a modern EPA-stove there will be very little heat that you can extract from the chimney without creating problems with draft and excessive creosote formation.

 

[Yeat!]

Thanks jake! For the info and greeting. Does double wall ( sometimes) draft better than single? I hear you on getting heat from the stove and not the pipe. I wouldn't be cranking up the stove just to get the pipe warm but if the heat was there and stove was running properly I'd take it. I am all about getting this thing hooked up as safe and efficient as possible. It's getting cold my way so just trying to figure out what's best ASAP. Any info on clearances and ideas for spacers behind cement board would be great.

 

[Yeat!]

Grisu I ve got a jotul f3. I was hoping to go straight up with the pipe to keep cresols from building up and for the best draft.

 

[firefighterjake]

Thanks jake! For the info and greeting. Does double wall ( sometimes) draft better than single? I hear you on getting heat from the stove and not the pipe. I wouldn't be cranking up the stove just to get the pipe warm but if the heat was there and stove was running properly I'd take it. I am all about getting this thing hooked up as safe and efficient as possible. It's getting cold my way so just trying to figure out what's best ASAP. Any info on clearances and ideas for spacers behind cement board would be great.

Yeah . . . I hear ya on it starting to finally get cold out there. I'll be down your way this Saturday by the way . . . dropping my brother off at the Jetport to fly to Alaska to visit my sister (he's packing in Jiff and Bakewell Cream for her!)

Doublewall does draft better and keeps the temps up better in the chimney . . . which most folks say makes for better conditions to prevent creosote. That said . . . you can still use singlewall and burn properly and avoid excessive creosote and draft problems as well.

It's also worth mentioning that while single wall will no doubt give off more heat . . . and the woodstove should be the main source of the heat . . . even doublewall pipe will give off some heat . . . it's not like it's stone cold.

As for spacers . . . assuming you are talking about wall protection . . . if you need to build a wall to reduce clearances remember that the wall needs to have a gap at the top and bottom to allow the free flow of air. In the past I've heard folks use ceramic electric fence wire holders or use built up layers of Durock cut into strips.

In my own case with my Jotul Oslo I went with the stove's required clearances (which weren't much) . . . exceeded them by a couple of inches . . . and then this year my wife and I built a wall behind the stove with cement board and tile. For me it was mainly decorative (hence no need for or reason to add in the air gap), but it gave my wife a better feeling . . . plus it will hopefully help us avoid the annual patching of the corner which was constantly cracking.

 

[Grisu]

Grisu I ve got a jotul f3. I was hoping to go straight up with the pipe to keep cresols from building up and for the best draft.

Of course, you said it in the title. That's a pretty small stove. If you want more heat, I would look for something bigger instead of trying to coax each last % from that small stove. Creosote builds up when flue gases cool down below 250 F as water vapors start condensing on the flue pipe. If you cool the flue gases too much in the lower section, they may not stay hot enough up to get to the top above 250 F. That small stove will have some difficulties pushing enough heat up the flue as it is.

 

[Yeat!]

My house isn't that big grisu. I used the stove last year and had it running with a ten foot liner up through the existing fireplace flue. I ve since tore out the fireplace and been looking to hook it up correctly. I don't think it drafted that well through the fireplace flue and was probably losing a ton of heat through the damper, but it kept the house pretty warm except for a couple of the extremely cold days. I'm guessing it's going to be much more efficient this year. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I need for clearances. It says in the jotul pamphlet that I have with a double wall insulated chimney connector I can get the rear down to 10". Nothing about single wall pipe. Since I ve already got some money into some nice 24 ga I'd love to use it but don't know exactly what I would need to do to make that happen. Sounds like I should just get double wall. I'm guessing with the double wall I can just go with the original plan of hanging cement board and veneering it as long as it's a minimum of 10 inches away.