Jotul F3

[karens]

Hello all, new here and new wood stove owner. I just purchased a used Jotul J3. A couple of questions (at this point )
I noticed the back plate states it's a J3 USA, but everything I see online is calling them J3 CB. Is there a difference?
I have not installed it yet, but when we looked at it and ultimately purchased it, we noticed the paint was chipping off. Apparently, the guy "sanded it and painted" it with Rustoleum high heat paint. The more I'm reading, I'm getting nervous that I can't fix this. I did order Thermoloux paint (not received yet) and started working on it with a wire brush, the paint is good on the flat surfaces, but not so much on the corners or under the top. I also don't think this guy cured the paint either. I've read to test a section for "bubbling" or a chemical reaction.
What if this bubbles?
Should I do anything at this point before I try to touch up the paint that has peeled and chipped off?

I'd appreciate any help.

 

[EbS-P]

The CB denotes Jotuls clean burn models. Jotul made several different versions of the 3. Post a picture of the stove and or the UL tag on the back of the stove. I can’t help you with the paint worst case you get to sans it all off and pick a color. I almost did a Jotul in stove brights power blue.

 

[karens]

The CB denotes Jotuls clean burn models. Jotul made several different versions of the 3. Post a picture of the stove and or the UL tag on the back of the stove. I can’t help you with the paint worst case you get to sans it all off and pick a color. I almost did a Jotul in stove brights power blue.

Thanks for getting back to me. The cb makes sense.

 

[begreen]

This is a Jotul F3, it does not have the secondary combustion system of the more modern F3CB. Is this stove painted or enameled? If enameled, one usually touches up the chips with Jotul's touch up enamel instead of repainting the stove. How bad and large are the chipped areas?

 

[karens]

This is a Jotul F3, it does not have the secondary combustion system of the more modern F3CB. Is this stove painted or enameled? If enameled, one usually touches up the chips with Jotul's touch up enamel instead of repainting the stove. How bad and large are the chipped areas?

It was originally ivory (I think) but the guy completely painted it with rustoleum.
At first I liked the way it had a distressed look, but as we were moving it, the paint was just chupping off. I worked on it a bit this weekend with a medium wire brush, mostly underneath the top, and it's pretty rusted.
Now I'm nervous that I'm not going to fix it, and if I should cut my losses and not Install it.

 

[peakbagger]

Sounds to me like you need to sandblast the exterior and then repaint it with the proper top coat. Most of the porcelain will come off and the remaining finish will have pretty good texture from the sandblasting to grab onto paint. That said, it could still end up looking fairly ugly up close.

 

[D. Hermit]

This is a Jotul F3, it does not have the secondary combustion system of the more modern F3CB. Is this stove painted or enameled? If enameled, one usually touches up the chips with Jotul's touch up enamel instead of repainting the stove. How bad and large are the chipped areas?

That is incorrect. The F3, 3CB, and F3CB are basically the exact same stove. the only difference is ash door/handle, and some of the early F3s didnt have the sm air blocker in the back to increase draft to the baffle.

 

[D. Hermit]

Sounds to me like you need to sandblast the exterior and then repaint it with the proper top coat. Most of the porcelain will come off and the remaining finish will have pretty good texture from the sandblasting to grab onto paint. That said, it could still end up looking fairly ugly up close.

If you get someone with a proper sandblasting set up off a tow behind, around 90-100cfm, it can blast the enamel off completely.

But you should always take the stove apart and sandblast then re assemble, that way you get all the enamel off better, and ensure a better functioning stove.

 

[D. Hermit]

Pictures of an F3 I did last month for a gentleman from NH who brought the stove to me for a full rebuild. Notice it is basically identical to the 3cb and f3cb, only difference is the drop away handle for the ash door and ash tray. And it actually sid have the air blocker in it as well, even the ones without airblockers, you can order one and it fits right in the cast.

 

[D. Hermit]

And here is a 2015 F3CB That a person from
Mass brought me, that I finished last week.

 

[begreen]

That is incorrect. The F3, 3CB, and F3CB are basically the exact same stove. the only difference is ash door/handle, and some of the early F3s didnt have the sm air blocker in the back to increase draft to the baffle.

You are right, I should not have added the F, I was thinking the Jotul 3. We had an early F3CB, but I have not seen an F3 sold in the US before, only the UK. I just downloaded the manual and yes, it has the full secondary rack. Thanks for catching that.

 

[karens]

Thank you for the info.
What do you know about the air intake adapter for these, I'm thinking of getting one.

 

[begreen]

Good question. I don't recall an outside air kit for this stove due to the top front air intake. DH, do you?

 

[karens]

Good question. I don't recall an outside air kit for this stove due to the top front air intake. DH, do you?

I was told this one would work, but I don't see how or where it would go.

 

[begreen]

That may be for the bigger F400, F500, F600 stoves. The air intakes on the F3 stove are through the top front slots and the little startup air control on the door.

 

[D. Hermit]

Yes thats the outside adapter kit. The directions should be pretty clear.

But the jist of it is, take off the heat shield, and you will have a left and right bolt going through the back of the stove, and attaches to the baffle with the nut on the inside. The one on the right will have a cover over it, thats open on the bottom.

You take that cover off by vice gripping the nut side, and slowly try backing out the screw on the back. Eaiser said than done, 90 percent of the time I cut them off w an angle grinder from the inside. Because they like to strip. This will also expose the air blocker I was talking about earlier, Check the directions, but I think the air blocker comes out for the air kit install.

And then, I think, that cover essentially replaces the cast cover that was on it, and other side through the heatshield. I also think the early ones may not have a heat shield w perforations to knock out for the adapter, so you would have to buy a new heat shield or cut a hole.

Full disclosure, this is my educated guess on how it attaches is based on the picture, and knowing how other air kits attach. Jotuls directions are normally very good, and they come w the kit. Any reputable installer should be able to handle installing it w the directions included.

 

[D. Hermit]

That may be for the bigger F400, F500, F600 stoves. The air intakes on the F3 stove are through the top front slots and the little startup air control on the door.

400/500/600 is literally just a little adapter that slides into the big hole at the back-center bottom of the stove.

 

[D. Hermit]

You are right, I should not have added the F, I was thinking the Jotul 3. We had an early F3CB, but I have not seen an F3 sold in the US before, only the UK. I just downloaded the manual and yes, it has the full secondary rack. Thanks for catching that.

Common mistake, from what Ive seen personally, is the 3cb as the oldest, then the F3 for a little while, then the f3cb as the newest ones. But all essentially the same stove.

Then you have the vintage models, which were the “3”, 3TD, 3tdic-2, and the 3tdic-2AP(ash pan).

 

[karens]

Thank you both for your help....I'm sure I'll be back with more ??

 

[D. Hermit]

That may be for the bigger F400, F500, F600 stoves. The air intakes on the F3 stove are through the top front slots and the little startup air control on the door.

The air for the baffle comes in through the back of the stove under that little plate w the air blocker I was talking about.

Then you have the airwash air control that is kinda your primary from above the door, and the one on the door is just a “start up” air control.

 

[begreen]

The air for the baffle comes in through the back of the stove under that little plate w the air blocker I was talking about.

Then you have the airwash air control that is kinda your primary from above the door, and the one on the door is just a “start up” air control.

Right, that's the secondary air. The F3 construction is simpler than the bigger brothers which have a bottom plenum for the intake air with a 3" hole for OAK attachment.

 

[stovelark]

Don't think Jotul made an outside air kit for the 3CB. The secondary air was in the back, the primary air control is the slider on top and the switch in the lower door was an air boost for startup. Its difficult to repaint an enameled stove to a normal spray on black finish, without first sand blasting. Unfortunately, the ivory enamel color got its feelings bruised easily (the top was always the worst spot naturally...

 

[D. Hermit]

They do make an outside air adapter for the 3cb, here it is right in the 2022 parts book. You can take that part number to any jotul dealer and they can order it direct for you.

 

[begreen]

They do make an outside air adapter for the 3cb, here it is right in the 2022 parts book. You can take that part number to any jotul dealer and they can order it direct for you.

View attachment 297240

That is the one that the OP posted earlier, but I don't see how that would supply air to anything but the secondary air on this stove. I see that part also can be used for the F602CB which also takes primary air from the front. This seems like a workaround for the mobile home requirement, but not much different from putting a hole in the wall near the stove.

 

[D. Hermit]

That is the one that the OP posted earlier, but I don't see how that would supply air to anything but the secondary air on this stove. I see that part also can be used for the F602CB which also takes primary air from the front. This seems like a workaround for the mobile home requirement, but not much different from putting a hole in the wall near the stove.

The “secondary air” is the only spot on any f series stoves that is not controllable, its always wide open. You would not be able to adjust the air flow of the f3 if you used any of the front air controls for an outside air adapter, they would have to be wide open 24/7.

I mean if it was the other way than people would try to damper down their stove by closing the air on the front, then it would get no outside air at all, because air would be coming from the back of the stove, still in the house, which could cause lack of 02 in the home.

It is different, but I dont think theres any other way it could be done unless the changed the design to be like the 400/500/600 and have a 2 piece bottom with all the air coming in from the bottom rear of the stove, and then getting split up in between the bottom pieces.