Jotul F600 needs another rebuild...

[D. Hermit]

Try dry fitting the new bottom with the OLD inner front bottom. It may work, and you may find there's one little "nub" to grind off to get a proper flush fit. Remember, it's just a big iron box. Keep calm and carry on?

You need to but the new inner bottom with a replacement of a fire bottom on older f600s. The nubs you are talking about grinding away are for added structure to help prevent cracking. They redesigned the bottom front to fit the newer bottoms. Picture for example with circles showing the change the made to accommodate for the nubs.

 

[paredown]

A few weeks of burning and I can say this burns like a different stove!

Two things of note--I used to have to leave the side door cracked while starting, and now I can light, close and leave. (Not sure if this is because the whole burn tube passage system is now in top condition, or because the draw on the chimney is better--I properly sealed and re-cemented the T connections and block-off while I was putting this back together.)

The second is that the air control is more visibly effective and the wood burns much slower giving off more heat in the process when the slider is closed. Yay!

Part B of the grand plan to stay warmer is now underway--we had a blower door test done when we thought we were going to replace the furnaces (yes, there are two). We had air changes/hour of around 12 (!)--and so reducing this is the goal. I've already spent days re-caulking all the windows and am now replacing the 18 (!) huge open can/pot lights in the ceiling, filling the openings with insulation, patching the drywall and adding new LED flat lights.

Once those are finished, I will caulk all of the seams between the plaster ceiling sections and the beams and paint the ceiling.

Just replacing the failed caulking on the windows changed how the room feels, and we are staying warmer because we are leaking less warm air--and I think we will feel even better once the rest of the ceiling gaps are sealed. I am also finally planning on installing a ceiling fan at the peak to help us circulate air.

Next will be putting rigid foam in all of the band joist cavities (they are not conventional--but I think we should get some gains. Then it will be sealing register boots. And so on...

 

[Ashful]

Re: foam joist cavities, this is what I have. Got a photo of what you're working with?

Here's my basement ceiling. Yes, some of those beams are walnut, 10 - 14" wide.

 

[begreen]

A few weeks of burning and I can say this burns like a different stove!

Well done! I love a happy ending.

 

[scra99tch]

I am currently redoing a F500 stove.

Would anyone happen to know of all the locations that need cement.

I can tell in the castings where a majority of it went and understand that any place mechanically fastened abutting other cast pieces but I am worried I’ll miss something.

Anyone know what the M8 and M6 torque specs should be? These cart pieces seem pretty thin. Going by a metric 8.8 bolt chart it mentions about 160-190 in-lbs for M8

 

[Ashful]

Going by a metric 8.8 bolt chart it mentions about 160-190 in-lbs for M8

There's no torque spec for any fastener, as the application determines the torque requirement, but anything under 200 in-lb. (17 ft-lb.) would be a normal working range for a type 8.8 in size M8.

 

[scra99tch]

Thank you I upped it a little more to 185. The cast iron on the inner bottom plate seems thin so I did not want to over so it especially when it hits the higher temps.