Jotul Firelight 12 Rebuild questions

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
So I have the bottom together. It’s a little strange how the air channel in the bottom plate is put together, because it has a groove all around the bottom plate as if for cement, but there’s two gaping open-air holes that route up to the air control. The only feasible way for air to enter the box is by the air control slider, or past the opening for the ash pan.

I cemented it anyway as there was cement in those channels when I took it apart, but I can’t see why it’s needed.

Also, there were a bunch of casting boogers I took a pic of, but they were crudded up and making the slider stick, so I ground the boogers off.
 

Attachments

  • 226DFC28-8767-4464-BE80-62EAA5CC6B30.jpeg
    226DFC28-8767-4464-BE80-62EAA5CC6B30.jpeg
    314.8 KB · Views: 141
  • 1F6BBDA2-3B26-4EA9-B678-41657A67A0F3.jpeg
    1F6BBDA2-3B26-4EA9-B678-41657A67A0F3.jpeg
    225 KB · Views: 143
  • A9B26886-7221-46CC-9DC6-B94E91B3E3FF.jpeg
    A9B26886-7221-46CC-9DC6-B94E91B3E3FF.jpeg
    149.8 KB · Views: 149
Nice progression keep the pics coming thanks.
 
Sides front and back are on now. I think from the factory they put the front on first, then the sides, then drop the back straight down from above into the cement grooves. It was a pain to get on and set as it’s still freezing here, and the stove cement/mortar thickened quickly with the cold. I used waay too much cement, but at least I’m sure it filled every nook for a good seal.

I left all the bolts loose until it’s was good and centered and I was sure everything was aligned properly, then slowly torqued everything down. Plenty of cement squished out everywhere that I reclaimed for the jug.

Next step is the internal baffles and foot petal linkage cover.
 

Attachments

  • F7250F38-7059-44FF-A5B3-4FF048B6A7C0.jpeg
    F7250F38-7059-44FF-A5B3-4FF048B6A7C0.jpeg
    331 KB · Views: 154
Sides front and back are on now. I think from the factory they put the front on first, then the sides, then drop the back straight down from above into the cement grooves. It was a pain to get on and set as it’s still freezing here, and the stove cement/mortar thickened quickly with the cold. I used waay too much cement, but at least I’m sure it filled every nook for a good seal.

I left all the bolts loose until it’s was good and centered and I was sure everything was aligned properly, then slowly torqued everything down. Plenty of cement squished out everywhere that I reclaimed for the jug.

Next step is the internal baffles and foot petal linkage cover.
Nice work, my old jotul 3 somehow hade the sides a bit out of alignment and would let some whisps of smoke out at start up. (when i used old school smoky start fire starting). Glad to see you took great care to keep everything straight for a tight fit for the Top.
 
Thanks! Yeah this thing takes a ton of cement. I’m sure if I did it again I could use half what I’m using now, but as it stands I’m using a large tub of Rutland and a caulk tube of the furnace cement too.

Nice work, my old jotul 3 somehow hade the sides a bit out of alignment and would let some whisps of smoke out at start up. (when i used old school smoky start fire starting). Glad to see you took great care to keep everything straight for a tight fit for the Top.
 
Sorry for the long hiatus, some personal issues came up that reduced my ability to spend time in the garage.

I have the stove all back together and sealed. I meant to take pics but time was running out on the project so I just got it back together.

The door is welded and straight (thank goodness!) and it has all new gaskets and mortar.

for anyone looking to reseal one of these, you honestly need a good 20 ft of both 3/16 and 1/4 gasket. Between the rear plate, ash pan, ash pan door, flue base, top loader, cat bypass, and doors and glass, you will need to just buy a roll of each really. A small tub of mortar and two tubes should suffice, with gasket cement too.

I made a few mistakes and had to tear some stuff back down to correct pinched gaskets and incorrectly placed mortar, but I’m confident its back together correctly.
 
Question, stove bright says to paint in 60 degrees. That’s not really an option where I live for at least another month. I can get the garage to about 40 degrees, think that’s good enough to paint?

Ill follow up with pics of the welded door and and finished product soon.
 
Sounds good. Looking forward to the pics.
 
Question, stove bright says to paint in 60 degrees. That’s not really an option where I live for at least another month. I can get the garage to about 40 degrees, think that’s good enough to paint?

Ill follow up with pics of the welded door and and finished product soon.
40º is too low. I have painted in 55º but it is not ideal. Maybe you could warm up the stove body somehow and keep the paint cans indoors until the moment of spraying, but it is not ideal and the finish may be affected.
 
You can tell spring is coming just by life getting busy.

I FINALLY got around to painting it. Had a nice sunny 62 degree day, so I fired up the tractor and pulled the stove into the driveway.

Stove Bright paint is pretty forgiving, and self levels nicely. It’s tricky at first because it literally dries while you watch it. The metallic is a little difficult to eye ball in the sun tho. I think it came out nice.

Im letting it dry for anhour and then I’m going to fire it to cure right in the driveway.
 

Attachments

  • 76F9C835-2307-4781-B98F-D4783F82E2DF.jpeg
    76F9C835-2307-4781-B98F-D4783F82E2DF.jpeg
    377.8 KB · Views: 134
  • C274C54D-BC65-452A-AA43-0B668EEC62FE.jpeg
    C274C54D-BC65-452A-AA43-0B668EEC62FE.jpeg
    326.6 KB · Views: 126
  • DB0A79D6-5BFB-4354-9676-68BBE1E6A8D6.jpeg
    DB0A79D6-5BFB-4354-9676-68BBE1E6A8D6.jpeg
    303.1 KB · Views: 135
  • Like
Reactions: EbS-P
That looks sharp! Nice job.
 
In its final resting place. Still gotta run a new liner to it, but that’s a project for later in the summer.

If it wears out, runs away, cracks, or gives me any of the issues you guys mentioned earlier in the thread, it’ll just move it to the dining room. There’s another large fireplace that’s been plugged in there, and it can just be a decoration.

I learned a lot rebuilding this. Total cost was about $300, but would have been about $50 less without the noob mistakes. There’s a Jotul 3TD on CL that I’m eyeballing for the upstairs master now, and that one is catless. If I pick it up I’ll post again.

Thanks for the insight fellas.

89C24CB0-84B6-4F8B-8ADD-C325A50E25DA.jpeg
 
Impressive rebuild. Those stoves are absolute art. My uncle has been running one since the 90's and loves it. He does need to reseal and change gaskets now and then but overall he has had great service out of it.
 
Yes, woodstoves are not permitted in bedrooms in most circumstances.
 
Hmm good info. I could have sworn I saw a couple in bedrooms when we were house hunting a few years ago, but I’ll look into it anyway. Maybe it was a sitting room or loft or something, hard to remember now.

Unfortunately someone was able to snag that 3TD before I could make it over there.
 
A vented gas insert is allowed. In some cases a small woodstove might get excepted if the bedroom is large has no door blocking air to the room. Ask the local inspecting authority.
 
Nice job. See u guys next season.