Jotul Oslo F500 Air Valve & Handle Kit (install with pics)

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CJRages

Member
Oct 20, 2009
248
Mid Missouri
This is a response to a previous thread that ended 1/1/2014 titled: Improving Sticky Oslo Air Control. At that time there were several people interested in a reported kit that was produced by Jotul to fix the "sticky air lever" problem associated with these stoves. This repair kit is available for the F500 and F600 stoves. I got my hands on one after repeatedly asking my dealer to look into it. He contacted his Jotul distributor and ordered it for me. I picked it up and installed it today.

I have included the photos below to outline the procedure and show the differences between the original equipment and the upgrade. Also part numbers if others are interested.

Time will tell if the new slider will keep from getting stuck as ash builds up etc. Everything seems to work good on the upgraded slider and lever except for one slight issue. As was noted in another post, the air control lever can be closed too far and actually open back up slightly if you push it beyond its intended stopping point. If you close the lever slowly you can feel when it hits the end point. If you continue to add slight pressure beyond this point it will slide again and lift the air valve plate up which would continue to let some air into the stove and could potentially be a safety hazard.

Also the cost seemed steep at nearly $60!


1 Parts.JPG
New parts, install instructions, and parts bag.

2 Bag.JPG
Parts bag

3 Instructins.JPG
Part numbers for the kit.

5 Oslo F500.JPG
Subject stove: F500.

6 Doghouse.JPG
You must remove the doghouse assembly with two 8mm bolts. The air lever pivots on the top of a 1/2" +/- bolt that must be removed from within the ash pan housing. Also a good idea to remove the ashes from the stove before this procedure.

7 Slider Comparison.JPG
New air valve (right) with groove (also it says NEW in case you forget :)) and old air valve (left) with small tabs

8 Lever Comparison.JPG
New air control lever (bottom); Old air control lever (top)

9 Open.JPG
New control lever in open position

10 Shut.JPG
New control lever in closed position

11 Over shut!!.JPG
OOPS! New control lever pushed beyond closed position, now allowing additional air to pass into stove
 
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Reactions: Todd and Gypsy Lady
Good write up and review . . . and of course pictures . . . we love pictures.
 
Thanks.

I know the sticky air lever has been a point of irritation for Oslo owners over the years. Hope this helps someone else that wants to permanently fix the issue without replacing the stove. There has been some good information posted on how to use dry lube/powered graphite to maintain the old slider. This was only a temporary fix for me lasting from a couple weeks to a month before needing it again.

Also to clarify, our stove was purchased in 2010 and was a floor model and was likely manufactured in 2008-2009. I am guessing that the new F500 stoves over the past couple of years have the new lever/valve installed already.
 
I use the graphite powder . . . but have also noticed that if I keep the ash lip clean (often by using my ash vacuum) the slider doesn't seem to stick quite as soon . . . in fact I think I went the entire burning season last year without opening up the doghouse (other than the initial application of graphite in the fall.)
 
Thanks for this detailed post. I found this upon researching my issue. My handle came 'unhooked' from the damper and was left in the open position causing a somewhat scary burn. After it cooled and I took it apart I found that my F500 (purchased July 2015) already had this NEW slider in it.

If you look at your bottom photo OOPS you can see how the handle elbow is nearly out of the damper channel. If you accidentally slide that handle too hard to the left (and I think maybe to the right) it can pop the handle out of there. If you have it apart try doing it forcefully and see what I mean. The damper just sits in there and a stiff push can dislodge it, making it sort of jump out of the channel. So not only is there the OOPS you describe of "allowing additional air to pass into stove" as described above there is the super oops of the damper letting go and causing a scary situation.

I contacted the shop and they told me this kit/newer version had "fixed" things but it clearly still has some design flaws that need to be addressed. Have they changed it in last 1 1/12 years?

The solution for now is to make sure everyone in the house knows to gently move that control lever. I also plan to get a damper in the pipe so I would be able to control it from burning out of control again. I will also try the graphite powder. Sometimes the superheated damper assembly can be a bit warped I guess and you have to tap it hard to get it to move which can cause the handle jumping out problem. Maybe the graphite will help. I will also try the graphite in my F600 which is a few years older. It's handle gets stuck too. I have not had it apart yet.

We are all wood heat in this big house in Maine!

Thanks,

Will
 
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Reactions: CTG
Most informative post I’ve come across!
Just ordered the upgrade for $30.
Thanks
 
This is a response to a previous thread that ended 1/1/2014 titled: Improving Sticky Oslo Air Control. At that time there were several people interested in a reported kit that was produced by Jotul to fix the "sticky air lever" problem associated with these stoves. This repair kit is available for the F500 and F600 stoves. I got my hands on one after repeatedly asking my dealer to look into it. He contacted his Jotul distributor and ordered it for me. I picked it up and installed it today.

I have included the photos below to outline the procedure and show the differences between the original equipment and the upgrade. Also part numbers if others are interested.

Time will tell if the new slider will keep from getting stuck as ash builds up etc. Everything seems to work good on the upgraded slider and lever except for one slight issue. As was noted in another post, the air control lever can be closed too far and actually open back up slightly if you push it beyond its intended stopping point. If you close the lever slowly you can feel when it hits the end point. If you continue to add slight pressure beyond this point it will slide again and lift the air valve plate up which would continue to let some air into the stove and could potentially be a safety hazard.

Also the cost seemed steep at nearly $60!


View attachment 162208
New parts, install instructions, and parts bag.

View attachment 162209
Parts bag

View attachment 162210
Part numbers for the kit.

View attachment 162212
Subject stove: F500.

View attachment 162213
You must remove the doghouse assembly with two 8mm bolts. The air lever pivots on the top of a 1/2" +/- bolt that must be removed from within the ash pan housing. Also a good idea to remove the ashes from the stove before this procedure.

View attachment 162214
New air valve (right) with groove (also it says NEW in case you forget :)) and old air valve (left) with small tabs

View attachment 162215
New air control lever (bottom); Old air control lever (top)

View attachment 162216
New control lever in open position

View attachment 162217
New control lever in closed position

View attachment 162220
OOPS! New control lever pushed beyond closed position, now allowing additional air to pass into stove
Good Information. Thank you. I now find they do not make those anymore. There is a new kit for $45.22 https://www.rockymountainstove.com/jotul-f500-air-valve-kit-156828/