Jotul Rangeley performance

[Catamounts]

new member here. Just curious if other rangely owners could chime in with what they're typically getting for stovetop temps (my magnetic thermometer is placed on the top left corner of the stovetop).

I struggle to get above 400-425 with 2 year seasoned hardwood and rarely get much sustained secondary action - could the outside air kit I have be contributing to this as it's channeling ice cold air directly into the secondary intake in the back of the stove? I'd imagine that 2ndary inlet in the back would normally suck in 90+ degree ambient air, whereas the oak brings in frigid outside air. Could that difference be hurting performance?

 

[begreen]

Sounds a bit cool. Is that the stove top temp? If so, where it is being measured?

 

[Catamounts]

Sounds a bit cool. Is that the stove top temp? If so, where it is being measured?

Yes, stovetop as measured on the left back corner (not on the steel lid plate)

 

[begreen]

Jotul recommends putting the thermometer on one of the rear corners of the cook plate/griddle in the manual.

 

[Catamounts]

Jotul recommends putting the thermometer on one of the rear corners of the cook plate/griddle in the manual.

Thanks. I've moved it accordingly and will see if that makes a difference. Any thought on whether the OAK could be hurting secondary performance?

 

[begreen]

It shouldn't be hurting secondary or primary performance if the fire is hot. Has the wood been split and stacked for the past 2 years?

 

[Catamounts]

For the most part, yes. I'm using leftover wood from last season that was split the previous spring.

 

[begreen]

Should burn pretty well then. How tall is the flue system on the stove? Any elbows or tees in the smoke path?

 

[Catamounts]

not sure the exact length but it's quite a tall chimney. Double walled metalbestos I believe. There are two 90 degree bends first to go out a wall, and then up the chimney but despite this, the draft has always been quite good. For example when I start the fire, with the door cracked a bit, I'll often hear a rattle caused by the draft trying to pull the door shut.

 

[7acres]

not sure the exact length but it's quite a tall chimney. Double walled metalbestos I believe. There are two 90 degree bends first to go out a wall, and then up the chimney but despite this, the draft has always been quite good. For example when I start the fire, with the door cracked a bit, I'll often hear a rattle caused by the draft trying to pull the door shut.

The majority of your stovepipe is outside?

 

[Catamounts]

The majority of your stovepipe is outside?

Yes, about 6 ft inside, and the rest outside. Draft has never been a problem. It's keeping her consistently above 400 that's been a struggle. I've read about other rangeley owners humming along at 500+ with glowing secondary tubes. I don't think I've even come close to that.

 

[7acres]

Is there any difference in airflow when you slide the primary air lever from left to right with a closed door?

 

[Catamounts]

Yes, the air lever works as expected. I keep it all the way to the right (most air) as the fire gets to 400-ish. As I then incrementally close the air (about a quarter way every 10-15mins) the flame activity reduces and I get longer burn times, but temp never seems to rise much above his point. I suppose if I left it wide open I could push it to higher temps but i'd be consuming more wood. I can't imagine the folks who are cruising at 500+ with glowing secondary tubes are leaving the air wide open, or are they?

 

[7acres]

I don't start closing down my primary air lever till the whole load is engulphed. I guarantee my top surface is well over 500F by this time. When I start closing it down the chemical reaction (fire) is craving oxygen which the secondaries provide.

The secondary flame throwers you see photos of happen during this process. About a half hour after you have it dialed in where you want it cruising all night you won't have banks of flame throwers. Just steady toungs of flame curling up to the secondaries.

The stove will be warmed up outputting high BTUs at this point and the initial load will have burned down maybe a fifth. Throw in a few more thin splits, as many as will fit. Don't be afraid to load the firebox to the tippy top baffle. Then go to bed. The stove will pour out even BTUs for several hours more.

In short, you're not building a camp fire. You're heating up a cast and steel structure to maintain combustion of a complete load of firewood.

 

[CincyBurner]

my magnetic thermometer is placed on the top left corner of the stovetop).
I struggle to get above 400-425

Try an IR thermometer to verify if your magnetic thermometer is reading correctly. My magnetic thermometer seems to read ~100 too low. Difference between direct surface reading v. slightly raised, elevated position of the magnetic thermometer ? I'm not sure.
If nothing else using an IR gun is interesting to see stove top temperature variations.

 

[begreen]

With the thermometer on the rear corner of the griddle I would expect to see temps in the 500-650F range.

 

[Ken L]

I've been wondering about the term "griddle plate. Is it the smaller plate on the top plate? I have the smaller F45. Thanks!

 

[Knots]

My best guess on my F55 is in the pic below:

 

[begreen]

I like that Knots. KenL, your thermometer would go in relatively the same location.

 

[Ken L]

Great! Thanks for the help. I've had mine on the far corner. Just moved it.

Ken

 

[jeffesonm]

Try letting it get hotter before turning it down... my better half is often better than I am at getting the stove ripping because I'm always over there fussing with the lever while she lets it go.

 

[7acres]

Try letting it get hotter before turning it down... my better half is often better than I am at getting the stove ripping because I'm always over there fussing with the lever while she lets it go.

Absolutely agree. That strong draft will act as a bellows for you after you get a flame. Get the door cracked just right and walk away. Come back after some minutes and the whole load will be ripping. At that point you can shut the door completely and the stove will pull the flame through the secondaries heating up your top griddle.