Jotul won't stay lit

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Steve Awodey

New Member
May 16, 2021
5
Pittsburgh
I'm hoping someone here can give me a tip.
I bought a used Jotul GF 400 DV (said to have been "working fine" a few years ago), and after installing it at my place it has the following problem:
- the pilot lights and stays lit after releasing the control knob and twisting it to ON,
- moving the burner switch from OFF to ON, the burner comes on nicely for about 5 seconds,
- then the flame slowly shrinks, turns blue, and dies completely over another 5 seconds or so,
- finally a quiet CLICK can be heard.
- then everything is out, including the pilot light.

My guess was that maybe the (LP) gas pressure was too low? The manual says it requires a minimum of 12" WC supply pressure, but the "low" pressure regulator that I put on the 100 lb. LP tank (standing outside the house, about 12' away from the Jotul) is preset at 11" - so I changed it for a "high" pressure regulator (with an adjustment knob on the top), which supposedly provides 1-20 PSI. I know that's a *lot* more than 12" WC, but those were the only two regulators I could find ... Anyway, it's the same behavior with the high pressure regulator: lights, fades, dies, click. Turning the knob in the pressure regulator does affect how big the pilot light is, though, so something's happening there.

One more clue: I forgot to ask whether it was set up for propane or natural gas when I bought it (but the seller's house was in the country, so I assumed he was using LP). So I was glad to find the LP gas conversion sticker on the rating plate ... until I found the NG conversion sticker on the valve. No date on either. Maybe my problem is just that it's set up for natural gas? Would that produce the behavior I described? If so, I know what to try next.

Thanks for any expert advice!

Steve in Pittsburgh
 
Last edited:

Lennox65

Member
Jan 29, 2021
121
New Hampshire
I'm hoping someone here can give me a tip.
I bought a used Jotul GF 400 DV (said to have been "working fine" a few years ago), and after installing it at my place it has the following problem:
- the pilot lights and stays lit after releasing the control knob and twisting it to ON,
- moving the burner switch from OFF to ON, the burner comes on nicely for about 5 seconds,
- then the flame slowly shrinks, turns blue, and dies completely over another 5 seconds or so,
- finally a quiet CLICK can be heard.
- then everything is out, including the pilot light.

My guess was that maybe the (LP) gas pressure was too low? The manual says it requires a minimum of 12" WC supply pressure, but the "low" pressure regulator that I put on the 100 lb. LP tank (standing outside the house, about 12' away from the Jotul) is preset at 11" - so I changed it for a "high" pressure regulator (with an adjustment knob on the top), which supposedly provides 1-20 PSI. I know that's a *lot* more than 12" WC, but those were the only two regulators I could find ... Anyway, it's the same behavior with the high pressure regulator: lights, fades, dies, click. Turning the knob in the pressure regulator does affect how big the pilot light is, though, so something's happening there.

One more clue: I forgot to ask whether it was set up for propane or natural gas when I bought it (but the seller's house was in the country, so I assumed he was using LP). So I was glad to find the LP gas conversion sticker on the rating plate ... until I found the NG conversion sticker on the valve. No date on either. Maybe my problem is just that it's set up for natural gas? Would that produce the behavior I described? If so, I know what to try next.

Thanks for any expert advice!

Steve in Pittsburgh
Most gas conversions only involve changing the main burner and pilot orifices and the regulator on the gas valve. A Natural gas valve that has been converted to LP could still have the original Natural Gas label on it. There is usually a small LP conversion sticker that gets applied to the regulator.

The fact that there is an LP conversion sticker on the Rating plate indicates that it has been converted but you will have to check gas pressure to be sure.
 

Steve Awodey

New Member
May 16, 2021
5
Pittsburgh
Most gas conversions only involve changing the main burner and pilot orifices and the regulator on the gas valve. A Natural gas valve that has been converted to LP could still have the original Natural Gas label on it. There is usually a small LP conversion sticker that gets applied to the regulator.

The fact that there is an LP conversion sticker on the Rating plate indicates that it has been converted but you will have to check gas pressure to be sure.
how do I check the gas pressure to determine it for sure?
 

Lennox65

Member
Jan 29, 2021
121
New Hampshire
how do I check the gas pressure to determine it for sure?
There should be a small port on the face of the valve marked "Inlet" This is where the pressure is measured with either a Magnahelic or digital gauge. It may be something better left to a gasfitter unless you are comfortable working with gas.
 

49er

Member
Jan 10, 2011
85
Los Gatos, CA
We have the same stove and are using propane also. My only experience with gas appliances is as a homeowner so I'm no expert by any means. With that said, I don't think your regulator set at 11" instead of 12" would cause your stove not to function at all. It might not reach full rated output but I think it would still run fine. The manifold pressure can be adjusted from 11" down to 3" minimum with the control nob so the burner does not need the full 12".

A couple of suggestions I've seen here over the years are to check the voltage between the terminals TP and TH/TP at the valve if you happen to have a volt meter. Check the voltage with just the pilot on and then when the burner comes on. If I remember right you're looking for around 600-700 millivolts with just the pilot on and a drop of a couple hundred mv with the burner on..

The other suggestion is to remove the front glass and turn the burner on for a short while and see if the stove still shuts down like it's doing now.

Good luck, there are several really sharp pro's here along with Lennox65 and I'm sure you will get some very good advice when they have time to chime in.
 

bjr23

Member
Nov 2, 2009
128
Eastern WA
My first thought is "why would the pilot light go out?" I'm thinkin' there's something funny goin' on in the fireplace valve. I'd think about removing a getting up on a work bench vise and see if it needs rebuilding or take it in to a appliance service shop that service gas valves or possible send if off to a service center.
 

Fingerlakes Fireplace

Burning Hunk
Jan 9, 2017
188
Upstate NY
I'm hoping someone here can give me a tip.
I bought a used Jotul GF 400 DV (said to have been "working fine" a few years ago), and after installing it at my place it has the following problem:
- the pilot lights and stays lit after releasing the control knob and twisting it to ON,
- moving the burner switch from OFF to ON, the burner comes on nicely for about 5 seconds,
- then the flame slowly shrinks, turns blue, and dies completely over another 5 seconds or so,
- finally a quiet CLICK can be heard.
- then everything is out, including the pilot light.

My guess was that maybe the (LP) gas pressure was too low? The manual says it requires a minimum of 12" WC supply pressure, but the "low" pressure regulator that I put on the 100 lb. LP tank (standing outside the house, about 12' away from the Jotul) is preset at 11" - so I changed it for a "high" pressure regulator (with an adjustment knob on the top), which supposedly provides 1-20 PSI. I know that's a *lot* more than 12" WC, but those were the only two regulators I could find ... Anyway, it's the same behavior with the high pressure regulator: lights, fades, dies, click. Turning the knob in the pressure regulator does affect how big the pilot light is, though, so something's happening there.

One more clue: I forgot to ask whether it was set up for propane or natural gas when I bought it (but the seller's house was in the country, so I assumed he was using LP). So I was glad to find the LP gas conversion sticker on the rating plate ... until I found the NG conversion sticker on the valve. No date on either. Maybe my problem is just that it's set up for natural gas? Would that produce the behavior I described? If so, I know what to try next.

Thanks for any expert advice!

Steve in Pittsburgh
This sounds like a venting issue. Take the glass off, and run it and see if it still goes out...