No interest in getting caught up with a BK versus "X" debate. I agree with bholler that it's not the right stove for every situation, even if we all see some discrepancies in the numbers. No biggie, to me.
But on a technical point, one thing I have noticed on my somewhat unique setup with a Magnehelic and damper is that the stove is a completely different beast when running on high, if I simply re-tune the bypass damper to change the draft by just 0.01"WC. I mean, it can go from that raging to lazy with a very small change in draft setting, without ever moving the thermostat knob off the wide-open throttle stop. I do believe this is why Poindexter or I can regularly consume full fireboxes of oak or doug fir in 4-5 hours, and both stoveliker and bholler report much lower maximum rates.
To put some numbers on it, when closing the bypass and starting my usual 15-20 minutes running on high bake-out phase, I usually set my damper to a position that I expect to settle out to 0.05" WC. But sometimes I'll come back to the stove after 5-10 minutes and find I had overshot my position a bit, and that the stove is running at only 0.03" or 0.04" WC. Opening the damper just a hair to nail the usual 0.050" ± 0.005" WC really wakes it up more than you'd expect, from just a few lazy flames at 0.03"-0.04" to very lively fully-engulfed fire at 0.05". It makes me think that if I only had 0.04" WC instead of my tuned 0.05" WC, I might see the same 10-hour burn times on a high setting as stoveliker, rather than less than half the time as I can do on high now.
This isn't to say the BK is uniquely sensitive to draft. Anywhere in the middle of the dial, it doesn't really seem to matter much what the draft is, and there's absolutely no reason the average burner should want or need a magnehelic permanently mounted to their rig. But when pushing the envelope at either end, going for either absolute minimums or maximums, it definitely helps to have everything dialed in just right.