Just finished cleaning the EKO

[Fred61]

And I'm smiling Last Spring, toward the end of the heating season I proclaimed on this forum that I was going to remove all that claptrap that EKO installed to supposedly keep the tubes clean but was mainly a disincentive for frequent cleaning. I did it

Slightly less than one cord put thru since October.

Removed the cover and reached in with a hook that snags the 2 1/2 inch ring that I attached to the top of each turb which also keeps them from dropping all the way to the floor of the lower chamber. There was a thin coating of flyash on each turb. (not microscopic). In one or two locations on each turb there was a 1/8 inch or so build-up where the turb contacts the tube. Sorry, no photo. Thought about it but you wouldn't have been able to decypher what I was seeing. Two swipes with the wire brush in each tube and the third swipe produced almost no dust. Took the turbs outside brushed them with a soft bristle brush and reinstalled. Now what am I going to do with all the extra time I had allotted to the job?

 

[maple1]

That's one thing I didn't really put a lot of weight on when I made my decision (ease of cleaning). But after having lived with it for a couple of months of burning now - I am really appreciating how easy mine is.

I've only got 2 out of 3 turbs installed. Open the door, pull them out with the hook tool, set them down, brush the 6 tubes in & out a couple times, then stick them back in with my gloved hands. Two minutes tops. I don't think it could be any easier. There is nothing stuck on them when they come out, and I think the action of pulling them out cleans the tubes they are in. Plus the draft keeps all the fly ash inside.

So I guess my advice would be - assess how easy a boiler is to clean if you're shopping for a new boiler, and assess how to make it easier to do it if you've already got one, as Fred did. Two thumbs up on his (although pics are always really nice ), I know the harder things are for me to do (even if they're still not that hard to do) the more they get put off. Could be age though.

 

[huffdawg]

I've gone about a year now with burning in summer for Dhw. I've got my boiler about16 inches away from the wall on the left side. So there isn't enough room to pull out the turb actuator shaft. My boiler doesn't idle unless I for get to turn on the pump to the storage. I have sighted down from the top and all I can see in there is fly ash. Any one use potatoe peels . I'm wondering if you should throw them in wet or if you should dry the out first

 

[Fred61]

I've gone about a year now with burning in summer for Dhw. I've got my boiler about16 inches away from the wall on the left side. So there isn't enough room to pull out the turb actuator shaft. My boiler doesn't idle unless I for get to turn on the pump to the storage. I have sighted down from the top and all I can see in there is fly ash. Any one use potatoe peels . I'm wondering if you should throw them in wet or if you should dry the out first

Mine doesn't idle either except for about 10 minutes at the end of my daily burn. The deposits in mine were fly ash. Not something a catalyst would burn off. It definitely needs to be physically removed by brushing or wiping. I suppose an air blast would remove some of it but what I think is that it's time for you to pick up a couple sawzall blades next time you're downtown and get rid of that cumbersome shaft. It's my understanding that it doesn't take a very thick coating to really affect heat transfer.

 

[Donl]

I've got my boiler about16 inches away from the wall on the left side. So there isn't enough room to pull out the turb actuator shaft.

Huff, I might be wrong here but if I recall correctly the shaft is in two parts. I think you have enough room to remove your turbs and clean.

Don

 

[huffdawg]

Ya I have a sneaky suspicion that i'm burning more wood than I should be n i'll have to crack it open tommorw and try to clean it. What are you guys using to clean the firetubes. thanx guys

Huff

 

[BoilerMan]

What are and what were your stack temps? I was always under the impression that the stack at goos full gassing would be the best indicator of the condition of the heat exchange surface.
I'm always in the 250-280F range with a good high bed of coals and fresh splits about 10 min into the burn.
TS

 

[mr.fixit]

Here's a pic of the "claptrap" as fred calls it.
Next time I think I'll do what fred did and just hang the turbs in there.

The cleaning handle would be ok if it actually did something,and it might work better if the turbulators were the "coil spring" type that contact the walls of the HX tubes.
Just recently on here there was a video of a boiler from Europe(I think Hannson posted it) that had that type of turbulators with a elaborate mechanism that moved them every time the loading door was opened.

I use cup wire brush clamped to a steel rod to clean the tubes.

I agree that it doesn't take much of a layer of ash on the HX tubes to really cut down on heat transfer.

 

[Fred61]

I purchased a wire tube brush at the local plumbing supply house which was too large diameter but was as close as I could get to the size of the tubes. I fired up the bench grinder and spun it until the diameter was reduced to a diameter I could use. It's still a little tight but I'm going to let it wear in. I don't have enough build-up to warrant spinning the brush.

 

[JP11]

Fred

I don't spin the brush to clean more.. I spin it to make it easier to move.

I put it in the cordless drill, then use the slow setting. Slow spin make the brush move very easy. I'm gonna time myself next time. I bet I can clean my boiler out completely in less than 10 minutes.

JP

 

[Fred61]

The brush I have is wire bristles captured in twisted wire. Not something I would want to spin for fear of untwisting the wire because resistance is so high. If I could pick up a cup wheel and attach it to a shaft I'd be willing to give it a try. It would probably save some time but it wouldn't be able to save much over jamming the present brush down the tube a couple times. I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for something I can apply power to.

 

[weiland13]

I swapped out the twisted turbulators and replaced with chain. I tried this for two reasons.
1 because I wanted something easier to disassemble and clean.
2 because I had a difficult time matching other eko 40 owners and the output they claimed to be getting. I could not get the output without stack temps around 500 degrees (even after a deep clean).

I can say now that my stack temp dropped nearly 150 degrees and output has been significantly increased. In fact I had to drastically adjust my air settings because the stack temp was even lower. I always suspected that my draft was a bit on the high side even though it did not measure to be all that bad with the digital manometer. I am very pleased with the results and would recommend this modification to anyone.

 

[Fred61]

I swapped out the twisted turbulators and replaced with chain. I tried this for two reasons.
1 because I wanted something easier to disassemble and clean.
2 because I had a difficult time matching other eko 40 owners and the output they claimed to be getting. I could not get the output without stack temps around 500 degrees (even after a deep clean).

I can say now that my stack temp dropped nearly 150 degrees and output has been significantly increased. In fact I had to drastically adjust my air settings because the stack temp was even lower. I always suspected that my draft was a bit on the high side even though it did not measure to be all that bad with the digital manometer. I am very pleased with the results and would recommend this modification to anyone.

What size chain?

 

[weiland13]

3/8 logging chain or transport chain. I cut them to 30" long.

 

[goosegunner]

3/8 logging chain or transport chain. I cut them to 30" long.

How did you hang the chains? Nails or existing linkage?

gg

 

[weiland13]

I just have them hanging on a bolt. I like the ring idea above. That would be pretty slick. It really was a big breakthrough for me with the chain mod. Like I said earlier, I could not get close to rated output without increasing my stack temp to 500 or more degrees before. Now we have much more output and much lower stack temp. In fact, I started a fire about a half hour ago. Stack is at 374 (with thermocouple probe), and boiler is at 183.

 

[weiland13]

My settings before were as follows.
Primary 3/8"
Secondary 4 turns out
Shutter open 50%
Fan speed around 60% once up and running

Current settings are as follows
Primary 5/8" to 3/4"
Secondary 4 turns
Shutter at 100% open
Fan speed at 70% once up and running

 

[mr.fixit]

Nice work weiland,thanks for sharing.

 

[Fred61]

Two thumbs up on his (although pics are always really nice

You want a pic of that. Here' my Wrangler that I drag behind my RV.

 

[weiland13]

You want a pic of that. Here' my Wrangler that I drag behind my RV.

View attachment 86262

Once the fire is out I will post a few pictures.

 

[mr.fixit]

Weiland your new air settings show increasing air,so with your lower flue temps that means that the chains do slow down airflow considerably more than the the originals.

Whenever I increase fan speeds,the flue temp. also rises.

Fred,is that jeep for pushing that big motorhome up mountain passes?I mean it only has a 450 in it!

Boy times have changed.Years ago I hauled around 80,000 lbs with a little 350 Detroit.

 

[Fred61]

Fred,is that jeep for pushing that big motorhome up mountain passes?I mean it only has a 450 in it

Couldn't make it over the top without it!

Boy times have changed.Years ago I hauled around 80,000 lbs with a little 350 Detroit

Gearing! I have to drop to 5th gear below 65 mph.

 

[huffdawg]

Weiland. I bought some 3/8 chain and instead of a ring at the top I was thinking of welding the top link sideways

Huff

 

[huffdawg]

 

[weiland13]

View attachment 86422View attachment 86423View attachment 86424View attachment 86425

Huff, did you try the chains out yet?