Kuma Sequoia install - new to woodstoves

[Dare]

Hey woodburners, a few months ago I decided I wanted to add a woodstove to my house. My house is a big converted warehouse with thick stone walls, an open floor plan, and propane heat that costs about $1000/month in the coldest months. So I decided adding a classic wood stove would be the answer to reducing cost and adding to the ambiance of the place.

I read up on here about extra large wood stoves and came to the conclusion that the Kuma Sequoia was the way to go, even though you guys don't have a ton of info on this particular model. I was looking at the Buck 91 and others, too, but it seemed like the Kuma had the biggest firebox. I have about 3000 sq ft on the main floor, and 1800 sq ft upstairs, so finding the biggest heater I could find was important.

My roommate is the craftsman, and i'm the extra pair of hands and installation manual reader.

First step- build the hearth. We decided to do a classic brick hearth. Cut the carpet out and exposed the wood sub floor. Installed concrete board over the wood sub floor, and laid the bricks on top.

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The back wall was two different depths- one wall about an inch deeper. We used metal ties to space the brick 1 inch and 2 inch away, respectively, from the drywall.

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Next step, get 5 guys to lift the stove up onto the hearth. We put it up on blocks, then screwed the legs onto the stove. Next, lift the stove up again and remove the blocks. voila

Which brings us to the mantel. My roommate got a piece of reclaimed lumber with some great saw marks. He used linseed oil to bring out the character.

And up goes the stove pipe. We used selkirk DSP double wall stove pipe- one 3 foot section and one telescoping section. First we had to cut a hole in the upper landing area. In that space we installed a firestop joist shield from the top, and a finish support package on the bottom. The chimney pipe with a chimney pipe adapter drops down from the top, and the stove pipe meets it.

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This as far as we've gotten. Next step is the chimney. We have to do a bend around some existing duct work, then up through the roof. I will update as we make progress.

Also, please let me know if I'm doing anything wrong! This if the first time either of us has installed a wood stove.

 

[Minnesota Marty]

I think you made a good choice. I have looked at the Kuma as a fireplace insert in my office Seems like a good company.
You do have alot of cu. ft. to heat keep us posted if the stove will do the trick.

 

[begreen]

So far looking good on the hearth. If you want to clean up the cement on brick smear, wipe it down with diluted muriatic acid. Be careful and follow instructions if you do.

The chimney will need to be protected (chased) on the balcony for safety reasons. It looks like that will block off the passage completely. Was that planned?

 

[Woody Stover]

Welcome to the hearth! Looking good. I believe you need a chase or some kind of guard around the class A on the second floor. I'd be interested in what the actual fire box measurements are. The Buck literature says 4+ cu.ft. but that must be with all the guts torn out because it's more like 3, useable space. It does toss serious heat, nonetheless.

 

[Dare]

So far looking good on the hearth. If you want to clean up the cement on brick smear, wipe it down with dilute muriatic acid. Be careful and follow instructions if you do.

The chimney will need to be protected (chased) on the balcony for safety reasons. It looks like that will block off the passage completely. Was that planned?

Yes, you can access the space from the other side of the stairs, so it was a trade off i had to make to block that way. Is it supposed to be completely framed off? I was thinking of just doing a little wall/railing so people wouldn't be tempted to use that passage. Everything else in my house is exposed, so I didn't want to hide the chimney.

 

[begreen]

You'll have to discuss this with your local inspector. Most places want it chased in a box (2" away from the pipe). But I had a friend that made a cool heat shield out of perforated stainless steel. The sheets were on spacers 1" from the pipe. This allowed the heat to circulate but there was no risk of burns. The inspector was happy and congratulated my friend on the nice design.

 

[Dare]

Welcome to the hearth! Looking good. I believe you need a chase or some kind of guard around the class A on the second floor. I'd be interested in what the actual fire box measurements are. The Buck literature says 4+ cu.ft. but that must be with all the guts torn out because it's more like 3, useable space. It does toss serious heat, nonetheless.

thanks for the welcome. Just took some measurements - 19" deep, 24" wide. It is about 12.5" high to what i guess is the cat. it is 16.5" to the top of box. So it looks like 4.35 sq ft total, but 3.3 sq ft that you can realistically load with wood.

 

[weatherguy]

I almost bought the Kuma Sequoia, looks like a tank, I thought the box was around 3.5 if I remember correctly, supposed to be a big heater, look forward to your reviews on the performance, hope you have plenty of good wood.

 

[newatthis]

I hope you'll post your propane savings when your stove is up and running. Love the photos, great post.

 

[mellow]

Nice, I have been waiting on someone to install the Sequoia so we can see how it does, that looks like it will be a pretty tall chimney, you might end up needing a key damper on it to control the draft, you will find out once you start burning.

How is your wood supply for this year?

 

[rasp21]

Welcome Dare. Did you buy the Kuma at a local stove shop in stock? Or did you have to special order- ship in? Built in Rathdrum Idaho, Very well built stove. IT"S DARE, The Gorillaz.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Seems like a good company.

They are. My dad called them with a few questions and ended up shooting the sh_t with the owner about stoves for half an hour. Nice guys.

 

[Dare]

You'll have to discuss this with your local inspector. Most places want it chased in a box (2" away from the pipe). But I had a friend that made a cool heat shield out of perforated stainless steel. The sheets were on spacers 1" from the pipe. This allowed the heat to circulate but there was no risk of burns. The inspector was happy and congratulated my friend on the nice design.

that's a cool idea! maybe we'll give it a try.

 

[Dare]

Nice, I have been waiting on someone to install the Sequoia so we can see how it does, that looks like it will be a pretty tall chimney, you might end up needing a key damper on it to control the draft, you will find out once you start burning.

How is your wood supply for this year?

it's about 8 feet of stove pipe, then about 20 feet of chimney i think. do you think i'll need it?

haven't gotten wood delivered yet, guess i should get on that!

 

[Dare]

Welcome Dare. Did you buy the Kuma at a local stove shop in stock? Or did you have to special order- ship in? Built in Rathdrum Idaho, Very well built stove. IT"S DARE, The Gorillaz.

i called around and found a dealer in pennsylvania that had one in stock. they threw it in a pick up truck and delivered to my house. had a pretty cool motorized hand truck thing that got it unloaded, and climbed up a couple stairs into the house.

 

[begreen]

it's about 8 feet of stove pipe, then about 20 feet of chimney i think. do you think i'll need it?

haven't gotten wood delivered yet, guess i should get on that!

I'd be inclined to try it out first. A key damper can be added later if needed. Give the folks at Kuma a call to get their opinion.

 

[mellow]

You need to get a moisture meter to test that wood, chances are it will not be dry enough. If you have a harbor freight or lowes/HD nearby you can get them there, http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-mini-moisture-meter-67145.html

You might look into getting kiln dried wood this year, see if fivestar delivers to your area http://www.fivestarfirewood.com/

 

[Dare]

hey mellow, thanks for the tips. i see you live in salisbury- i'm from OC.

 

[Woody Stover]

I'd be inclined to try it out first. A key damper can be added later if needed. Give the folks at Kuma a call to get their opinion.

I've got 20', insulated liner, interior masonry, 8" (like the Sequoia) on the Buck 91. It drafts well but isn't excessive.

had a pretty cool motorized hand truck thing that got it unloaded, and climbed up a couple stairs into the house.

Sounds like they had an Escalera to bring in the stove. Looking forward to detailed report on burn times, temps and what-not. And plenty of pics. I hope the stove does it all for you; It's got all the vowels so that's a start. I will post in the thread a lot, as it's the only chance I get to type that many vowels in a row...

You need to get a moisture meter to test that wood, chances are it will not be dry enough.

Yep, I would test before I bought a load. Re-split a piece and jam the pins into the fresh surface. Doubtful you can find any dry wood for sale except the kiln-dried mellow mentioned, or you could add some Bio-bricks to the mix. Depending on weather you are going to cut your own wood, you may want to purchase wood from a local guy, even though it may be wet, and get it stacked now in the wind so it'll be getting dry by next season. The more dense woods may take more than 1 yr. to dry well. Red Oak is the slowest-drying of any, it seems. OTOH, soft Maple or Cherry dry fairly well in a year but also burn quicker in the stove.

 

[mellow]

hey mellow, thanks for the tips. i see you live in salisbury- i'm from OC.

Yep, good ol smallsbury. Where are you at in Baltimore?