Leaking thimble

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woodstove22

New Member
Oct 30, 2021
16
WV
The wall penetration thimble for our new Pacific Energy Stove (February 2022) leaked early on and I was able to get the installer out quick to try and fix it. It's a vacation home so we don't get to keep close tabs on it and while installing flooring in that room this weekend we found it was still wet behind the stove and had water damage, so am guessing it is still leaking. We've been there in the rain, but irregular visits we've not noticed water coming in. It's been a wet week though. It's possible it only leaks under certain circumstances too. Any suggestions on how to correct this? We're calling out the contractor of course, but my faith has weakened significantly. The last time they "fixed it" they simply spread a ton of silicon on the outside of the thimble. I've attached photos of the installation. It's leaking through an outdoor and indoor layer of LP smartside and foam inside the wall. Any suggestions are welcome in my efforts to hold the contractors feet to the proverbial fire. Thanks!

PXL_20220612_180201733.MP.jpg PXL_20220807_175952125.MP.jpg PXL_20220807_180227554.MP.jpg PXL_20220807_180301838.MP.jpg PXL_20220311_223556557.jpg
 
I am wondering about the slotted passthrough cover. What brand chimney pipe is this? Normally it doesn't get screwed together with all those screws.
 
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I believe the brand is Excel.
That's what I thought. I haven't seen a their EWRS stainless trim in person, but I was wondering if this is what they used. If so, I think the vent slots are supposed to be on the sides, not top and bottom. That might explain the water intrusion.
 
That's what I thought. I haven't seen a their EWRS stainless trim in person, but I was wondering if this is what they used. If so, I think the vent slots are supposed to be on the sides, not top and bottom. That might explain the water intrusion.
That's a smart observation. Maybe the giant holes let water in? Not sure how I over looked that. Although in the photos the vents share a corner so it's likely there are vents all the way around rather than opposing and simply installed with the incorrect orientation. Though maybe three sides and the top should not have vents? The contractor is checking it out Tuesday afternoon and I'm not very hopeful. They get points for being so responsive, but I'd rather not have the leak in the first place. I did have a passing theory that during high winds and rain the stack was pulling away from the wall a bit and not as stable as it could be. I've not tested the flex manually though to confirm. The standard bracing to the roof if impossible with the yurt roof (no penetrations allowed in the cover). If this was the case I was wondering if the bracing normally used to the roof could be modified to attach in the same plane as the stack and the wall and would provide some additional bracing benefit.
 
Has the seam on the horizontal part of the T been siliconed?

Slots are all the way around from the last pic, it seems (unless the far side is closed).
 
Has the seam on the horizontal part of the T been siliconed?

Slots are all the way around from the last pic, it seems (unless the far side is closed).
That's possible, I have not seen one in person. I would take a strip of flashing and make a shed cover for the top slots to see if that alleviates the problem. This seems like the most likely entry point for water, especially if the pipe is not sealed at the entry under the trim cover.
 
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woodstove22, is the chimney pipe braced at 5 ft above the roof edge?
 
That's possible, I have not seen one in person. I would take a strip of flashing and make a shed cover for the top slots to see if that alleviates the problem. This seems like the most likely entry point for water, especially if the pipe is not sealed at the entry under the trim cover.
I remember your kind (and correct) instruction to me to silicone the (in my case vertical) seam on my class A oil boiler chimney to stop rain water leaking in. I would think the horizontal part here is similar in construction. Hence my suggestion. It is easy to do in addition to the slots on top, and might resolve it.
 
Excel pipe doesn't have a folded seam, it's welded. Selkirk has gone to a welded seam too now.
 
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That's possible, I have not seen one in person. I would take a strip of flashing and make a shed cover for the top slots to see if that alleviates the problem. This seems like the most likely entry point for water, especially if the pipe is not sealed at the entry under the trim cover.
Visited yesterday following recent return by the contractor and they thought it was pretty sealed up, but without input from me they installed this rain cover over the top edge.

PXL_20220826_205356268.MP.jpg
 
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Has the seam on the horizontal part of the T been siliconed?

Slots are all the way around from the last pic, it seems (unless the far side is closed).
There is soo much damn silicon. Kind of a mess. Aside from the leak it was my biggest disappointment with the contractor. Not what I would expect from $5K worth of sheet metal and steel. Maybe they are required to, but they also left the stove pipe stickers installed; was surprised by that. I am pretty certain they would not do that "in the nice part of town" on the million dollar homes nearby.
 
There is soo much damn silicon. Kind of a mess. Aside from the leak it was my biggest disappointment with the contractor. Not what I would expect from $5K worth of sheet metal and steel. Maybe they are required to, but they also left the stove pipe stickers installed; was surprised by that. I am pretty certain they would not do that "in the nice part of town" on the million dollar homes nearby.
Yeah we aren't allowed to remove the ul labels. Now they should position them so they are facing the wall etc
 
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I hope that helps solve the issue.
We had a decent sized rainstorm last week following their work and no moisture when we arrived this weekend. So, we finished the floor installation with the hope that was it. The floor is a waterproof laminate so not terrible if we're still getting wet, but am optimistic that was what was needed.
 
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It needs to be.
The chimney is attached to the exterior wall in two locations currently as seen the in OG post; above the cleanout, but below the outside elbow and again above the outside elbow near the roof. If we can't connect to the roof than maybe to the eaves header board on both sides of the chimney. Not perfect, but couldn't hurt? I am imagining a collar on the chimney with a strapping bar on the inside and outside of the chimney down to both sides of the chimney to the eaves. Like an A-Frame.
 
The chimney is attached to the exterior wall in two locations currently as seen the in OG post; above the cleanout, but below the outside elbow and again above the outside elbow near the roof. If we can't connect to the roof than maybe to the eaves header board on both sides of the chimney. Not perfect, but couldn't hurt? I am imagining a collar on the chimney with a strapping bar on the inside and outside of the chimney down to both sides of the chimney to the eaves. Like an A-Frame.
Without proper bracing the chimney will be able to move too much which could lead to leaks.
 
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