Learned A Valuable Lesson Today

[CT-Mike]

Well,

I was dropping trees today and just moving right along. Wasn't paying real close attention, and cut my notch on the wrong side of a tree that was leaning way over. Went around to the other side, and started my finish cut. Right about then I looked up, but it was too late, the saw was horribly pinched. Putting a wedge in did nothing. So instead of stopped to consider the situation and think about the next step, I just got the other saw and dropped the tree in the direction it was leaning, which was the same side my saw was pinched on.

So obviously when the tree fell, it took the saw with it. Cost me a handle, recoil cover, bar, chain, and a few other small parts. Luckily no major damage, and none to the power head.

Lesson is, if you have a saw inextricably pinched, remove the power head, that way all you are out is the bar and chain possibly.

Part that really chaps my ass is that I had read on here about removing the power head, and was in too much of a hurry to stop and think.

So, stop & think before charging in, expecially when it comes to dangerous power tools.

Hope this helps someone else from making a similar mistake.

Mike

 

[North of 60]

Its always good to have a reminder. Anything can happen even when we think we are most prepared. Thanx for the heads up Mike. Sorry about the saw but at least your OK as you didnt panic. Sounds like ya just got a little lazy. ;-)

 

[TMonter]

Learned that lesson a couple years ago when a neighbor did about $250 damage to his saw that way. I always pull the power head off if I get the saw stuck. 20 minutes of time is a lot cheaper than $200+.

Good reminder to people.

 

[LLigetfa]

If you have another saw at your disposal, cut a small notch up as high as you can reach and then cut two push poles. One pole rests at the base of the stump and the other end of it on your shoulder. The other pole goes on top of the first and its other end goes in the notch. You can push over just about any leaner that way or at least open up the cut enough to get a wedge in and extricate the saw.

 

[CT-Mike]

LLigetfa,

I can't picture what you are saying to do. Can you provide more info or a simple diagram?

 

[LLigetfa]

Sorry, I can't draw. I tried googling for a diagram but didn't find one. I will describe it again.

Cut a shallow notch in the tree as high as you can reach. This is to receive the vertical pole.

Cut a pole just short of the distance from the ground to the notch. We'll call this the verrtical pole.

Cut a second pole about the same length. We will call this the horizontal pole.

Place the far end of the horizontal pole at the base of the tree and rest the other end on your shoulder.

Place the vertical pole on top of the horizontal pole and stick the far end of it into the notch higher up on the tree. Too close to the tree and it slips. Too close to your shoulder and you lose leverage.

You now have a lever and fulcrum. When you push with your shoulder, you apply a strong vertical force against the tree, opening the saw kerf. If the tree is ready for felling, just keep pushing and it will go down. If not cut deep enough, stick a wedge in the opening kerf so the tree can't rock back and finish the cut.

 

[smokinj]

Well,

I was dropping trees today and just moving right along. Wasn't paying real close attention, and cut my notch on the wrong side of a tree that was leaning way over. Went around to the other side, and started my finish cut. Right about then I looked up, but it was too late, the saw was horribly pinched. Putting a wedge in did nothing. So instead of stopped to consider the situation and think about the next step, I just got the other saw and dropped the tree in the direction it was leaning, which was the same side my saw was pinched on.

So obviously when the tree fell, it took the saw with it. Cost me a handle, recoil cover, bar, chain, and a few other small parts. Luckily no major damage, and none to the power head.

Lesson is, if you have a saw inextricably pinched, remove the power head, that way all you are out is the bar and chain possibly.

Part that really chaps my ass is that I had read on here about removing the power head, and was in too much of a hurry to stop and think.

So, stop & think before charging in, expecially when it comes to dangerous power tools.

Hope this helps someone else from making a similar mistake.

Mike

I try to video when i drop a tree then watch them for mistakes it helps me slow down and rember the details! havent done one perfect yet.

 

[savageactor7]

Bad stuff can happen to good people...at least you're OK.

 

[kevin j]

To me the more important lesson is that when tired, sore, wet, cold, or rushed, it is really easy to make dangerous mistakes.
Learned that many years ago, still make dumb mistakes that scare me afterwards. (Especially on the railroad. Lots of things can hurt you there, but most things just kill you.....)
The near misses are reminders. Bent saw is minor, could have come back at you, or widowmaker come down from not watching, etc.


k

 

[Backwoods Savage]

First rule of cutting: When you get tired, quit! Tired bodies make foolish mistakes.

As for the saw in the tree. Yes, remove the power unit. Then notch above that and cut the tree as you normally would. Then when the tree is down, you can get the bar out and you'll have just a thin piece of wood you can keep for a conversation piece!

 

[CT-Mike]

Well,

To continue the saga of the Jonsered, I spent about $200 in parts getting her back into fighting shape, only to have the connecting rod break and tear up the crank and cylinder on Saturday. ;< It is now a pile of replacement parts for my father-in-law, and I went out and picked up a Stihl 361 with 20" bar. Great saw, just sucks in that it cost me $200 more than just buying the new Stihl in the first place.

Oh well, I didn't catch too much crap from the wife, she calmed down after I explained that I can not fell and buck trees with the 14" Husky, and without wood we would have to be buying oil.

 

[smokinj]

Well,

To continue the saga of the Jonsered, I spent about $200 in parts getting her back into fighting shape, only to have the connecting rod break and tear up the crank and cylinder on Saturday. ;< It is now a pile of replacement parts for my father-in-law, and I went out and picked up a Stihl 361 with 20" bar. Great saw, just sucks in that it cost me $200 more than just buying the new Stihl in the first place.

Oh well, I didn't catch too much crap from the wife, she calmed down after I explained that I can not fell and buck trees with the 14" Husky, and without wood we would have to be buying oil.

You will learn to love the ms361

 

[CT-Mike]

You will learn to love the ms361

I already do. I used it about 3 hours on Saturday after I bought it, and again today for another couple of hours. I am amazed at how fast those Stihl chains eat through wood. It is also a little over 1/2 lb lighter than the Jonsered. That might not sound like much but it adds up over the course of a long day in the woods.

 

[smokinj]

You will learn to love the ms361

I already do. I used it about 3 hours on Saturday after I bought it, and again today for another couple of hours. I am amazed at how fast those Stihl chains eat through wood. It is also a little over 1/2 lb lighter than the Jonsered. That might not sound like much but it adds up over the course of a long day in the woods.

what size bar you go with?

 

[jibe]

Lesson is, throw a wedge in there next time.

 

[CT-Mike]

I asked the guy who runs the saw shop if he offered a military discount and he said he could. We then agreed that he would upgrade to the 20" bar/chain for no increased cost. As he was filling out the warranty paperwork I noticed his last name and realized he was the guy with the grapple truck that I am hiring to truck some logs to my house. We talked about that, and he said he would give me a sweet deal since we were going to be doing some business together. The MSRP on the saw was $599 with 18" bar, I ended up getting the 20" bar/chain, a spare chain, and a gallon of bar oil for $606.66 after the governor gets her 6% cut. I call that a pretty sweet deal.

 

[CT-Mike]

Lesson is, throw a wedge in there next time.

In my original post I stated that putting the wedge in there did nothing at all, the tree had a real bad lean to it that I didn't notice because I wasn't paying attention.

 

[LLigetfa]

On a heavy leaner, a single wedge will just crush the fibers. It doesn't have enough surface area. Several wedges, side by each other, improve the odds.

 

[LLigetfa]

Also, if you don't get a wedge or two started before the kerf closes, it becomes exponentially harder to open the kerf back up.

 

[jibe]

So the lesson is a) put in a wedge as soon as you can and b) slow down so you aren't attempting to cut "heavy" leaners against their lean.

I was taught and will teach people to put in a wedge as soon as possible when felling trees. Regardless of whether you are felling with the lean or not. Yes, you don't always need a wedge to push the tree over (in fact most of the time if you are just going with your read lean), but it's an extra safety margin that takes all of 2 seconds to accomplish.

I was taught this and have personally witnessed the almost deadly results of not putting in a wedge as soon as you have the room. Wind, read the lean wrong, rot, etc.

Sorry if I'm coming off as harsh but, I've had 2 people I know put in the hospital this summer because they or people around them violated some of the fundamentals of safe falling.

 

[CT-Mike]

I appreciate everyone's input, and admit that there is always room to learn more about felling trees. My father in law was down over Thanksgiving and helped me drop trees for 3 days. He is the oldest of 10 kids and had to quit school in 10th grade to go to work to help feed the family. He lumberjacked in New Hampshire his entire life, and he is a master at dropping trees precisely where he wants them to go. I learned quite a bit from him this weekend, but there is always more to learn.

 

[smokinj]

I asked the guy who runs the saw shop if he offered a military discount and he said he could. We then agreed that he would upgrade to the 20" bar/chain for no increased cost. As he was filling out the warranty paperwork I noticed his last name and realized he was the guy with the grapple truck that I am hiring to truck some logs to my house. We talked about that, and he said he would give me a sweet deal since we were going to be doing some business together. The MSRP on the saw was $599 with 18" bar, I ended up getting the 20" bar/chain, a spare chain, and a gallon of bar oil for $606.66 after the governor gets her 6% cut. I call that a pretty sweet deal.

That is sweeet deal sthil dealership are very hard to budge on price

 

[chad3]

As above, I try and drop in a wedge as soon as I can when I will not hit it with the saw. If nothing else, it should allow you to get the saw out if you need it. Another hint. Make sure you cut the back cut about an 1" plus above the face cut. If nothing else, it will make sure the tree doesn't spring back at you as it gives a wedge that will not let the tree bounce back off of. A logger friend of me gave me another great tip. Make sure the face cut is very deep (cut down more than you think) and almost undercut the bottom cut. This will allow the tree to continue to fall before it separates from the trunk and the tree really falls in almost slow motion. When you do it right, you will know and think it was pretty cool.
Hope that bit helps.
Chad