Lesson Learned... Again

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Augie

Feeling the Heat
Nov 8, 2012
468
North Of Canada
Tossed in a few pieces of bark slabs off of some maple I split the other day to warm the stove back up. Dialed back air, then phone rang, went to office, 5 min later smelled the new stove paint i applied this summer curing.... ran back stove was at 800ish but temp gage only goes that high, so was prob over 900.... flue was only at 700 though.... Flung the door wide open and everything was good to go in 2min or so. LOL little lessons.
 
I have been considering building something that I can network and access from the web, was thinking of using a raspberryPi unit and a couple of thermos.... maybe it is time...
 
I have been considering building something that I can network and access from the web, was thinking of using a raspberryPi unit and a couple of thermos.... maybe it is time...
Sounds good if you have the skills.
But if you are at work or wherever would you be able to do anything about it without going home?
My problem is sometimes I leave the air open all the way to get a reload going and I walk away thinking I'll check on it in a few minutes but forget about it for more like 15-20 mins..not good.
I have only done it a few times ..but that's a few times too many!
 
ran back stove was at 800ish but temp gage only goes that high, so was prob over 900.... flue was only at 700 though.... Flung the door wide open and everything was good to go in 2min or so
I'm know expert and maybe its fine to do this but it seems to me like you could possibly do some kind of damage by causing a sudden temperature drop not to mention possibly shattering the glass.
 
I'm know expert and maybe its fine to do this but it seems to me like you could possibly do some kind of damage by causing a sudden temperature drop not to mention possibly shattering the glass.

Nope. Temp doesn't drop fast enough to do anything but to get your heart out of your throat. And you can throw a glass of ice water on the neoceram glass with the stove going at full tilt and all you get is a wet floor and a face full of steam.
 
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That's what I thought. Like I said i'm not an expert and 99% of the time I know nothing about anything:p
 
Nope. Temp doesn't drop fast enough to do anything but to get your heart out of your throat. And you can throw a glass of ice water on the neoceram glass with the stove going at full tilt and all you get is a wet floor and a face full of steam
That's good to know Ive wondered the same thing. Thanks Brother Bart.
 
I developed this highly scientific method one night when the 30 was headed to the moon and wasn't gonna stop lately. I knew that just cracking the door open would make it a rocket ship so I just flung the door wide open. Sucker settled down in a few minutes, closed the door on a stove two hundred degrees cooler stove and it settled in and burned just fine. I hesitated to advise it back then but have now a time or two a year.

You do have to be careful of popping embers when the cold air hits the blazing splits.
 
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I developed this highly scientific method one night when the 30 was headed to the moon and wasn't gonna stop lately. I knew that just cracking the door open would make it a rocket ship so I just flung the door wide open. Sucker settled down in a few minutes, closed the door on a stove two hundred degrees cooler stove and it settled in and burned just fine. I hesitated to advise it back then but have now a time or two a year. You do have to be careful of popping embers when the cold air hits the blazing splits.

I believe it was one of your posts on this last year that taught me the method. It works like a charm, settles down in just a couple of short min. Secondaries stop almost immediately, that is where a secondary stove is generating most of its heat. Works really well, that first time though it takes Big Cojones. If you want to practice this just in case you ever need it, get the stove running like normal when you are into the secondaries stove top 600 -700 fling open the door all the way, watch everything as it cools down. After that first time you wont be too worried.
 
Yeah it breaks the vacuum in the firebox created by the chimney draft so all air is coming in through the door. Not through the secondary air or the booster EPA holes built into every EPA non-cat. So nothing but the cooler air is in the game and pulling the heat right up the chimney and out along with the un-burned combustible gases coming off of the wood.
 
the Real thing to have would be a small unit that had thermos and would adjust the air based on the temp of the flue, stove top and a probe put into the area of secondary burn. Still trying to decide how everything should go, Ill prob find some small motors and rig something up this year. Then the stove would be set and forget, since you alread would have the themos you could rig an alarm pretty easy as well
 
the Real thing to have would be a small unit that had thermos and would adjust the air based on the temp of the flue, stove top and a probe put into the area of secondary burn. Still trying to decide how everything should go, Ill prob find some small motors and rig something up this year. Then the stove would be set and forget, since you alread would have the themos you could rig an alarm pretty easy as well

A member here has a unit to handle the stuff in the competition in DC in about a week.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...right-ideas-for-a-better-wood-stove-9#slide-9
 
I am aware of that unit, I figure his unit will be a few hundred or more all up, I'm looking for a diy type thing that I will opensource the design when I get it programmed. a raspberrypi unit would be able to handle all of the processing needed they are $50 thermos, maybe $10 per then a servo motor for another 50ish and it would be networked and you could upload to a website automatically
 
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