Let's talk Jotul door gaskets....again

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Going into my fourth year burning my Jotul Castine, I decided to check all the gaskets again. I know there are previous threads about this but I want some current thoughts as this is my first 'modern' stove.

Everything seemed nearly impossible to pull a dollar bill out of except at the observer's right side of the main door and right bottom side of the main door (hinge side). This still required mild to moderate force but I decided to replace the door gasket anyway just to see if it improved it. It did not and it remained exactly the same.

Jotul recommends low density gaskets, based on the manual. The 3/8" gasket is the correct size. All this has been confirmed with the dealer. I used Rutland graphite treated gaskets and installed them correctly ensuring not to stretch the gasket.

My question is:

I have heard competing thoughts on low density, high density, and graphite treated gaskets. Is this ok that it takes a little bit less force to remove the dollar bit from that one spot? My stove dealer did not seem concerned.

 

[begreen]

I have heard competing thoughts on low density, high density, and graphite treated gaskets. Is this ok that it takes a little bit less force to remove the dollar bit from that one spot? My stove dealer did not seem concerned.

If there is slight tension then the gasket is still making contact and should be sealing there.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

If there is slight tension then the gasket is still making contact and should be sealing there.

Thanks, begreen. I appreciate the confirmation, especially since you have experience with the Castine.

I am burning the stove right now and all seems well.

 

[begreen]

When the gasket starts to fail you may note yellow flame and a soot deposit inside the door at that location.

 

[Manly]

I have been burning with my Jotul 3 for 20 years. I can usually tell buy the stoves performance, i.e., ability to regulate air, when the gaskets are going. I have been regasketing about every 5 years. The door glass gasket would begin to leak a bit more frequently. Last changeout I used a wider flat gasket for the glass. It looks like it will holdup better than the thin rope style gasket originally used. These older Jotul #3s have a lousy bracket setup to hold the glass in place. It is workable though. One thing about this stove, you can control the air and burn with excellent procission. I've read the newer stoves damper won't allow the stove damper to be closed completely. Not good in my book. Jim

 

[RAZZ]

I think you are over thinking this. I just did my gaskets first time after three years of heavy use.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

When the gasket starts to fail you may note yellow flame and a soot deposit inside the door at that location.

I've noticed that from day 1 on the stove. There is definitely a tendency to have more yellow flame and deposit on the hinge side of the stove. Looks like it's going to be that way no matter what. I guess it is just attributed to irregularity in the cast iron construction.

 

[ddddddden]

I've noticed that from day 1 on the stove. There is definitely a tendency to have more yellow flame and deposit on the hinge side of the stove. Looks like it's going to be that way no matter what. I guess it is just attributed to irregularity in the cast iron construction.

Warped door, perhaps?

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Warped door, perhaps?

That's what I think. It's not enough of a problem for me to try to get my dealer to see if Jotul will replace it under warranty. I don't get runaway fires and I can easily control the air. It would just be nice to have a top of the line stove that burns evenly on both sides.