Liner chimney cap

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holtsvillefd69

New Member
Dec 9, 2016
14
Brookhaven
Hello all just had my stove Recently installed was up on the roof today and noticed the cap with a gap on top have read that it is important to have it sealed can anyone on here please help me so I can have this issue resolved. Included is a pic of my cap and what I have found online tia [Hearth.com] Liner chimney cap[Hearth.com] Liner chimney cap


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Yes, that is a sloppy job. Maybe it got lifted up when the insert was installed. The old goop needs to be cleared off with a knife and then, the top plate reset with a fresh layer of silicone, and the top cap down tight onto the flue tile. Weigh it down with a couple bricks if necessary for a day to assure a good seal.
 
Yeah that is a real hack job. I am a big fan of those deluxe top plates like in your picture. At the very least they need to cut those wings off of that thing and seal it flat on the flue tile with silicone.
 
Not with a liner. What problems are you having with the burn? It takes a while to become one with a new stove.
 
Not getting the burn time I was hoping for, can't really get a good secondary burn, and when I put in a large split at night I wake up to find that it really didn't even burn and the stove went out!


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It's a jotul c550 it also seems like the damper is not functioning correctly if the wood burns to a bed of embers and I through new wood in I have to leave the door cracked open for it to restart


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How did the top of your chimney look while you were up there?
 
Yah, that sounds like wet wood. have you checked a fresh split at room temp with a moisture meter? What sort of wood/supply do you have?
 
The wet wood is burning so cool, so secondary combustion is never achieved. Also the chimney never gets warmed properly so never draws hard enough to get the nasty wet, cool, creosote laden exhaust from the wet wood up and out of the chimney. So it condenses, mostly near the top where the chimney is coolest and the exhaust has lost all its heat/momentum.
 
I mean unless there's some other major awful screwup done on your install that is negatively affecting performance. Feel free to post photos. We all love photos.
 
And you need a variety of splits for a burn. One big'un is gonna just sit there and smolder. Cracking the door on a reload isn't anything unusual. Just don't leave the room until that door is closed again.

But wood that isn't dry enough, like Squisher says, is the usual cardinal sin. Especially with first time burners.
 
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Idk what the moisture content is I bought the wood locally advertised as seasoned wood I am a complete noob to wood burning so I guess I have to check that


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Stick with us. Lot of wood burning experience here to get ya rocking that thing.
 
Yah the wood is the likely suspect.

But that's a good thing. Means when you get that sorted everything should work fine.

Room temperature fresh split. So warm a piece up inside, take it out, split it, bring it back in and read it with a prong moisture meter(they're cheap) going with or along the grain on the freshly split face. You're looking for sub 20% not really over 22% or so IMO, but the drier the better for the most part.
 
bring in a piece let it warm, then split again and test. You want to know the moisture in the wettest part.....that being the center.
 
If you didn't re-split them and check the freshly exposed face, then your reading is worthless.
 
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