Lining a chimney

[brianbeech]

I've about decided for safety and ease-of-cleaning to put a liner in my old clay lined chimney.

I've got an old Jotul 118 and it is currently hooked up to the 8x8 clay lined chimney with 5" single-wall stovepipe. I basically have the chimney running from the basement through the roof and it has two flue pipes in it. One for the Fuel Oil burner and the other is used for the woodstove. As I said, it is 8x8 clay flue pipe. When the chimney sweep installed it, he simply busted a hole in the chimney in the basement and stuck a 'pipe' to hook up the stovepipe to. Then he used some mortar and made the pipe solid in the chimney. That pipe is 5" and has the single wall hooked up to it.

I'm thinking that a 6" liner would do quite a few things for me:
- make it easier to clean, since I would have a pipe that terminates outside the chimney to the stove.
- possibly make the stove a bit more efficient by reducing the draft?!
- make my home safer by having the correct equipment (I have one little girl and another on the way - can't be too safe)

My questions are - should I leave the 5" portion that spans the brick portion of the chimney to the flue? What kind of liner should I get, aluminum or stainless? The stove calls for 6" pipe, I'm assuming 6" liner as well? I was looking at something like this: (broken link removed) but I am not sure why I would need to pay for a Tee when I don't see how I can use it.

Also, I guess you just feed the flex liner down the chimney, attach it at the bottom somehow and also at the top somehow?

Any suggestions would be great - or links to 'correct' instructions. Don't really trust what I find online.

 

[begreen]

The liner will probably increase draft, especially if this is a 2 story home. You might consider going 5 or 5.5" liner instead. It should work fine. I believe the stove is designed for 120mm pipe. The bottom end of the liner terminates in a cleanout tee. That is what the connector pipe gets attached to.

 

[brianbeech]

I'm assuming I'd have to remove the connector pipe (yellowish color in pic) and replace with something else? I don't see how I can connect a flex liner with the current pipe, it is solid in the chimney. And the Tee goes outside of the chimney on the other side of the connector pipe?

If I hear you correctly, this should be a pretty simple job? With the flex pipe actually coming out of the chimney into the basement? Or will I replace the connector pipe with something else and the flex liner will stay IN the chimney completely?

 

[will711]

I've about decided for safety and ease-of-cleaning to put a liner in my old clay lined chimney.

I've got an old Jotul 118 and it is currently hooked up to the 8x8 clay lined chimney with 5" single-wall stovepipe. I basically have the chimney running from the basement through the roof and it has two flue pipes in it. One for the Fuel Oil burner and the other is used for the woodstove. As I said, it is 8x8 clay flue pipe. When the chimney sweep installed it, he simply busted a hole in the chimney in the basement and stuck a 'pipe' to hook up the stovepipe to. Then he used some mortar and made the pipe solid in the chimney. That pipe is 5" and has the single wall hooked up to it.

I'm thinking that a 6" liner would do quite a few things for me:
- make it easier to clean, since I would have a pipe that terminates outside the chimney to the stove.
- possibly make the stove a bit more efficient by reducing the draft?!
- make my home safer by having the correct equipment (I have one little girl and another on the way - can't be too safe)

My questions are - should I leave the 5" portion that spans the brick portion of the chimney to the flue? [ What kind of liner should I get, aluminum or stainless? The stove calls for 6" pipe, I'm assuming 6" liner as well? I was looking at something like this: (broken link removed) but I am not sure why I would need to pay for a Tee when I don't see how I can use it.

Also, I guess you just feed the flex liner down the chimney, attach it at the bottom somehow and also at the top somehow?

Any suggestions would be great - or links to 'correct' instructions. Don't really trust what I find online.]

It has to be stainless, 6" should be fine leaves some room for insulation around the pipe. The link you provided looks exactly like what I have . I had a chimney fire 2 yrs ago no harm no foul all is fine buy made the heart race till fire co. got here. Long story short insurance covered cost of having liner installed - deductible I'm a DIY guy but this was one that I was not going to tackle ( don't like climbing ladders). I watched how it was installed, it is fed from the top down . The Tee is what the flex liner is attached to and if you look at the picture the pipe with the birds mouth cut is what your single wall pipe from the stove goes in and it's all pulled together with a big hose clamp. Then the top plate fits over the top of chimney making water tight seal and finished off with a cap watched some video on line about the process Google or You Tube,can't remember which. With a new family member on the way this is a smart move. You may want to talk to some local stove installer, sweeps, for professional input. Hope this helps & Good Luck.

 

[will711]

Go to the advertiser on this page Rockford chimney supply pic's and video should answer a lot of your ??

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

I believe the Jotul 118 is the black bear, awesome stove. My set up sounds simular to yours except that I have 1- 8x8 flue running up. I'm not sure of the specs on the 118 but if I remember right it takes a 6" flue. I have a SS thimble running through the brick into the flue, a T just inside the flue and on the install I had the insulated liner dropped down the flue and the connections were made in the clay liner. It was a fairly simple install. My cap is a SS cover with a 6.25 in hole that is flared upwards. The cap and collar both extend from there. My run is about 32', I get an excellent draft as well. Good luck with your project!

 

[brianbeech]

I believe the Jotul 118 is the black bear, awesome stove. My set up sounds simular to yours except that I have 1- 8x8 flue running up. I'm not sure of the specs on the 118 but if I remember right it takes a 6" flue. I have a SS thimble running through the brick into the flue, a T just inside the flue and on the install I had the insulated liner dropped down the flue and the connections were made in the clay liner. It was a fairly simple install. My cap is a SS cover with a 6.25 in hole that is flared upwards. The cap and collar both extend from there. My run is about 32', I get an excellent draft as well. Good luck with your project!

How are the connections made in the clay liner? Do you make them while the T is out, make the connection to the flex liner, then push it all in the clay liner? The only access I have to the clay liner is the hole the pipe goes through and the top - struggling with the mechanics of that.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Depending on the kit and manufacturer, the T is made up of 2 parts, one part is flared to recieve the other. The snout or nose of the T is installed from within the house and while the insulated pipe is dropped into the clay flue is when they both will be connected. The inside of the nose of the T has a clamp which is tightened from inside the nose, the result is a T with it's nose coming through the thimble in the brick.

 

[brianbeech]

Depending on the kit and manufacturer, the T is made up of 2 parts, one part is flared to recieve the other. The snout or nose of the T is installed from within the house and while the insulated pipe is dropped into the clay flue is when they both will be connected. The inside of the nose of the T has a clamp which is tightened from inside the nose, the result is a T with it's nose coming through the thimble in the brick.

AH HA! An inside-the-hose clamp!

 

[Milton Findley]

Go to the advertiser on this page Rockford chimney supply pic's and video should answer a lot of your ??

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