Little break from the firewood! ( pic heavy )

[swagler85]

We've been wanting to build something to keep us dry between the house and garage. Snow tends to drift there and wanted to be able to walk into the house without getting rained on. So put ths up this past weekend!

 

[swagler85]

 

[heat seeker]

That'll make a world of difference!
Also, maybe a pellet storage area? Was that the "hidden agenda", maybe...

 

[swagler85]

That'll make a world of difference!
Also, maybe a pellet storage area? Was that the "hidden agenda", maybe...

I bring firewood into the garage by the skid. That stays just inside the garage door you see in the pics. So a big benefit to me is no more going outside in my undies to get a load of firewood. This will also be used as the mud room. I will be building lockers with a bench under them. Used for coats hats boots ect. Wife's Pinterest ideas coming to life.

 

[Flatbedford]

Is there are real foundation under that? And more importantly, what the heck were you doing with the chainsaw on the roof?

 

[Jags]

Yeah baby. I never have understood why unattached garages that were that close to the house, were never attached. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

 

[semipro]

Yeah baby. I never have understood why unattached garages that were that close to the house, were never attached. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

Fire safety is one reason. Insurance companies recognize attached garages as an increased fire risk to the house and typically charge accordingly.

OP, nice work. You've inspired me to get off my butt and do something to the house this weekend.
If you don't already have a steel entry door on the garage you should consider installing one. In most places a steel (or other fire resistant door) is required between garage and house.

 

[swagler85]

Is there are real foundation under that? And more importantly, what the heck were you doing with the chainsaw on the roof?

Yes there was a real foundation poured for the build.

Chainsaw was to trim the truss that was a too long. Others saws wouldn't reach.

 

[swagler85]

Fire safety is one reason. Insurance companies recognize attached garages as an increased fire risk to the house and typically charge accordingly.

OP, nice work. You've inspired me to get off my butt and do something to the house this weekend.
If you don't already have a steel entry door on the garage you should consider installing one. In most places a steel (or other fire resistant door) is required between garage and house.

Yes there is a steel door on the house side, also a second one going on the other side.

 

[Flatbedford]

Yes there was a real foundation poured for the build.

It was hard to tell in the picture.

 

[swagler85]

It was hard to tell in the picture.

The existing pad that was there was cut out for the footers and dug down. Also tied into the the existing footers on both sides. It is hard to tell from the pics.

 

[ScotO]

Nice job Swags. I've used my limbing saws many times for construction purposes......the Amish taught me that trick.

 

[swagler85]

Yes I tried a circular saw and it cut down to about 2 inches off the plate. Couldn't finish the cut so grabbed the chain saw. Worked like a charm, and had to throw a pic in there. Got the roof on now, gotta wait on electrician now.

 

[semipro]

How did you flash the interface where the new roof meets the sidewalls of the garage and house?

 

[ScotO]

How did you flash the interface where the new roof meets the sidewalls of the garage and house?

I was going to ask the same thing. Swagler, did you put some flashing up behind the siding on both the garage and house? I can see where you cut the siding out to get at the sheathing, but didn't see any flashing agains the house when you shingled it......make sure you have flashing there or prepare to be miserably mad at the water problems you're gonna have....

 

[swagler85]

Yeah it's flashed. Slid a piece of flashing under each shingle and up under the siding. Finished it at the bottom by cutting a slot in the siding and bringing that flashing out over the drip edge. Will also slide in j channel to finish off the siding. I roofed for 5 years so that part was a breeze.

Lower right corner you can see the flashing

 

[Freakingstang]

looks like a kick butt wood storage/dry area to me. I found out all about the insurance when I bought my place. My 48x40 is attached to the house the insrance said its a 12 car garage. I said no way, maybe 7-8 if i'm lucky. they way they see it, its 12 times the risk of 12 mini explosions that set off more... My rates are high beause of the size of the garage....I keep thinking about building some kind of shelted, covered breezeway off the back corner of the house for a little bit of wood storage. I have a huge concrete pad off the big living room where the stove is and don't have but a little bit inside.. The "undie factor is cool". Great work.

-Steve

 

[swagler85]

Got a little more work done on the mud room!
Leveled out the floor with treated studs, layer down the floor, insulated and drywalled. Also threw together a light made out of barn wood and mason jars. Next on the list is mud the drywall and get the pallet board ceiling up. Plywood wall will be the back side of the lockers I'll be building.

 

[Flatbedford]

I like the lights.

 

[begreen]

Did you lay down a vapor barrier before putting in the raised floor studs?

 

[ScotO]

I love the lights, swags. And like BG said, did you put a plastic VB on the cement before studding? I know it sounds like a PITA, but I'd be taking that subfloor back up and getting some kind of VB directly on the cement pad......if not, yer gonna get mold in that subfloor and eventually rot.....

That room is gonna be nice when you get it done....

 

[Defiant]

Nice job!! love the windows & lights

 

[swagler85]

Gona have to fix that vapor barrier issue

 

[woodgeek]

Gona have to fix that vapor barrier issue

If the floor spacers are pressure treated, meh, probably ok. I would only use vapor permeable flooring, or cut tiny button vents in the floor.

 

[ScotO]

Gona have to fix that vapor barrier issue

If the floor spacers are pressure treated, meh, probably ok. I would only use vapor permeable flooring, or cut tiny button vents in the floor.

I'm thinking like WG is here.....try to ventilate the underfloor. Maybe even vent it to the outside of the house....

Or you could use spray foam insulation and just fill the cavities full......that'd end the issue altogether....