Loading against the glass.

[Warm_in_NH]

So, between the two stoves, (Oslo and Shelburne ) I am tempted to load them (particularly the Oslo) with splits gently laid against the flass.

Life, being as imperfect as it can be, has resulted it me seeing both stoves with burning logs against the glass, no negative results, makes sense.

Question.
Can I load the Oslo with wood placed against the glass? (Loaded by side door) or the Shelburne in a similar manner, knowing it may / most likely will end up shifting towards or leaning against the glass?

I get that it's "okay" when the burning load shifts and logs end up against the glass. No issues. But what about loading fresh fuel against the glass? Goes against common sense, but seems like it should be okay....

Thoughts?

 

[phatdonkey]

I load to the tubes and on occasion have logs against the glass. Gently laid as you said. No issues so far. I have also had numerous logs shift and fall against the glass with no negative effects.

The only thing I have seen with loading against the glass is that when the leaning log starts to offgas, it really soots up the glass. If it burns up before the airwash is done, no problem. If not, youll have to burn it off on the next load, or clean the glass dur8ng the next cool down.

 

[begreen]

From the F500 manual:
5.0 Operation
Important:
Never build or allow the fire to rest directly on the glass. The logs should always be spaced at least one inch from the glass to allow for proper air flow within the stove.

 

[pdxdave]

It seems like from the break-potential perspective, you'd be better off starting with the logs against the glass. Less chance of impact from log rolling into it.

 

[firefighterjake]

I've thought in the past that sometime I should experiment and build some andirons for this stove . . . just so I can load things up a bit more.

 

[mass_burner]

My morso has a huge glass section, one of the reasons I bought it. The bottom inside, front lip has a good flat surface to support a pair of thin metal spikes. The question is, how to attach them. Strong magnet would be easiest.

 

[firefighterjake]

My morso has a huge glass section, one of the reasons I bought it. The bottom inside, front lip has a good flat surface to support a pair of thin metal spikes. The question is, how to attach them. Strong magnet would be easiest.

I was thinking making them in a L-bracket shape with the bottom being heavier weighted and have it rest on the flat bottomed firebox, right on the ash grate of the Oslo. Not sure if this would work for the Morso.

 

[heavy hammer]

They need to offer a version of the Oslo with no glass just a solid cast iron front door. I know a lot of people like to be able to see the fire, but a solid door would be nice to then you could load it up more without worrying about wood on the glass. You would not have to ever clean the door either. Just a thought.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

This is one of the reasons I'm going to trade my Castine in for the Rangely TL. The Rangely appears to come equipped with andirons to protect the glass.

 

[claydogg84]

I load my Oslo with wood against the glass for nearly every overnight burn. The manual states not to do so for operational reasons, not safety. If the stove runs fine with wood up there, go for it.

 

[begreen]

This is one of the reasons I'm going to trade my Castine in for the Rangely TL. The Rangely appears to come equipped with andirons to protect the glass.

Rangeley can also be loaded N/S. In the meantime try loading the Castine so that the split forms a wedge sloping to the rear of the stove. Then put the next split with the thin edge to the front so that it mates with the slope of the bottom split. Now there is a relatively level top surface on which to place another split with the thin edge toward the back of the stove so that it slopes inward. Loaded this way I was able to run full loads in the Castine.

 

[iluvjazznjava]

So, between the two stoves, (Oslo and Shelburne ) I am tempted to load them (particularly the Oslo) with splits gently laid against the flass.

Life, being as imperfect as it can be, has resulted it me seeing both stoves with burning logs against the glass, no negative results, makes sense.

Question.
Can I load the Oslo with wood placed against the glass? (Loaded by side door) or the Shelburne in a similar manner, knowing it may / most likely will end up shifting towards or leaning against the glass?

I get that it's "okay" when the burning load shifts and logs end up against the glass. No issues. But what about loading fresh fuel against the glass? Goes against common sense, but seems like it should be okay....

Thoughts?

Just don't use a glass door to try and jam that extra split into the stove. That's what will crack the glass.

 

[jatoxico]

I've thought in the past that sometime I should experiment and build some andirons for this stove . . . just so I can load things up a bit more.

With my shallow firebox I think about the same thing. E/W loading prevents me filling the firebox fully for fear its all going to fall forward. Something that could I swing down out of the way to load and then back up to retain the load as it shifts while burning down would be an improvement.

 

[mass_burner]

With my shallow firebox I think about the same thing. E/W loading prevents me filling the firebox fully for fear its all going to fall forward. Something that could I swing down out of the way to load and then back up to retain the load as it shifts while burning down would be an improvement.

Or maybe a telescoping rod, like a car antenna.

 

[jatoxico]

Or maybe a telescoping rod, like a car antenna.

Whatever is used would have to hold up to a rough environment so heavy, simple and few moving parts.