Log Splitter Engine Damaged???

[maple1]

If I was a shop I don't think I would send something out the door without running it a bit first.

 

[fire_man]

I was thinking the same thing, especially since there was damage involved.

 

[johneh]

How can you say it is fixed if you do not test it ?

 

[KenLockett]

I agree to All above. Like a lot of things just another life lesson learned. This is one of the reasons I prefer to do things on my own whenever possible. I actually had to drive to the shop. He never returned my call. We discussed and he offered the possibility that maybe the timing is off and that the flywheel key was sheared. Of course my first thought and I didn’t say it was well why didn’t you at least try to start the engine to confirm the repair and at that point would have know whether the key was sheared. Strictly speaking I didn’t ask him to do that but if he would have simply tried to start the engine and in doing so determined that the key was sheared I would have paid him to repair that as well and confirm engine timing. I suspect he probably tried and when it wouldn’t start didn’t go any further either because he didn’t want to mess with it or suspected I wouldn’t pay for it. I just don’t know. Either way I’ll just complete the repair myself. Now to pull a flywheel. Never done it but looking at a video looks relatively easy to confirm if key is sheared and remove flywheel to replace as needed. Any thoughts on whether is should invest in the pulling tool? Is it really necessary? I don’t want to break anything further. When all is said and done I’ll probably be a small engine expert. Lol.

 

[blades]

pulling tool yes , because trying to knock loose with a mallet almost always breaks something.

 

[maple1]

I think the first thing I would do, if carrying on myself, is check compression to try to verify the valve replacement got done right. Him sending it out the door without firing it up to test, then what happened after, just complicates the whole thing. Also sounds to me like the oil never got drained at the shop if it was as black as it sounds. Just all around sounds like a shop not to take anything back to.

Also, not sure if this applies to these B&S engines or not, but with some small engines if you crank it over with the spark plug wire not hooked up & the plug not grounded, or the on/off switch not turned off if it has an on/off switch, you can fritz the coil. That switch is likely incorporated into the throttle linkage - when your turn throttle all the way down it kills the fire.

If you have compression how you should have it, and have spark - then I would check the key.

 

[Ashful]

Folks, let’s not lose sight of how we got here. Put otherwise, I don’t see how installing the wrong spark plug would cause a sheared flywheel key.

A damaged valve is very likely to have damaged the valve seat, leading to a compression problem. I’d be doing a compression test, before chasing any possible new problems.

 

[maple1]

I'm doubtful of a key problem also - but you never know. If the engine had come to a sudden stop at some point, maybe. But I don't recall it did.

The needless extra chain of events that arose out of sending it out the door without firing it up first still boggles me a bit...

 

[Ashful]

I suspect they did try to fire it up, and just fed him some BS when saying they didn’t. They put oil in the crank case and tried to run it, but it wouldn’t start. Rather than digging into why, they figured they’d done the job they were hired to do (replacing the valve), and sent it on its way.

If they dig in and find other problems, they have a customer confrontation on their hands before being paid. This way, the customer pays first, confrontation later.

 

[rox3406]

You don’t have to pull the flywheel to check the key. Just remove the flywheel nut and washer and look at the end of the keyway. It the slot on the crank lines up with the slot in the flywheel they key is intact. On a different note if it came back with the old oil still in it then all they did was slam a new valve in it and didn’t do the lash. You have to split the case to do it. Old oil no case split. Compression test should show if the valve is hanging open do to improper lash.

 

[KenLockett]

Okay guys did compression test with my thumb over plug hole. I feel a bit of pressure but with hard crank not even enough to push my thumb off. Is this enough to confirm the compression is not there and no need to even take off the flywheel cover even at this point?

 

[KenLockett]

So just to be clear, I was told he lashed the valve (using lashing compound) and that it went in cleanly and that he had to file it a bit as he was inclined to explain to me how it is done. He also said everything else looked fine including the valve seat. Furthermore he said that compression was checked and was good. The more I think about it the more I’m thinking I was hood winked and starting to get really pissed off. When I went in last night to talk to him I asked him point blank if he did the repair or if his helper did. He said a bit of both then proceeded to tell me his helper didn’t come in Monday and hasn’t been in since. So you guys think my thumb test is sufficient to prove compression is not there? If so I am going to take the engine back in and give him to chance to make it right or simply just give me my money back. Bennington is a small town. If he chooses to do business this way I will make a point of letting everyone in town know and/or will report his practices to the Better Business Bureau. Amount probably not enough to take to small claims court. So disappointed as he seems like an honest person. I of course try to give everyone the benefit of the doubt. Guess I’ll see what kind of person he truly is.

 

[KenLockett]

Oh yeah and one more thing. He told me he only had to take the head off and the breather to access the cover required to get to the valves for replacement. Is this what you mean by splitting the head??

 

[johneh]

You got it no compression no start
I think your so called mechanic took you for a ride
When I was in the trade your engine would have got a complete diagnoses
A repair estimate then with your OK an overhaul including a test run and set up
Have I been out of the trade so long that this is not done ?

 

[KenLockett]

He told me that they had to drain the oil to do the repair. He also told me that it was empty when I picked it up. I think the helper did the repair (maybe not correctly) and the owner was simply told things were done. Again will see.

 

[KenLockett]

He told me that they had to drain the oil to do the repair. He also told me that it was empty when I picked it up. I think the helper did the repair (maybe not correctly) and the owner was simply told things were done. Again will see.

 

[brenndatomu]

Chances are the compression is low...but the thumb test is unreliable at best. Go to one of the national auto parts store chains, they will loan you a compression tester...well, "sell" you one that you can use and then bring back if you want...they are not that much money either.
I don't know what the compression specs are on this engine, but some are low enough (normally) at cranking speeds that a person with strong hands could hold normal compression...I have been able to do it before on an engine that ran.

 

[KenLockett]

The mechanic is the guy who told me to do the thumb test and said the compression should definitely push my thumb away at around expected 60 Psi of pressure. And the plot thickens.

 

[brenndatomu]

60 PSI is easily held by hand...I've done it on 90.
If he is saying that 60 PSI is the spec, then this engine must have an auto compression release...which kinda surprises me on an engine this small.
No engine will fire on actual 60 psi...many will fire on 90, but start kinda hard...100 will start easier...120 will start easily on most engines...this is actual cranking compression, not auto compression release #s.

 

[rox3406]

Bring it back give him a chance to make it right. Just my 2cents.

 

[maple1]

This has gone on way longer than it should have. You need to check compression. With a gauge. Get real numbers.

No you don't have to drain the oil to take the head off and the access cover. And no that is not splitting the case. That would lose the oil. If you're having trouble figuring this out there are likely all kinds more YouTube vids out there.

 

[Ashful]

Bring it back give him a chance to make it right. Just my 2cents.

This.

If I didn’t own a compression tester myself already, I wouldn’t bother. Take it back and get him to start his repaired engine. It’s that simple. If repaired correctly, he should be able to start it. Period.

From everything you’re saying, it sounds like you may be dealing with an honest business owner with a bad employee. At least give him one chance to make it right.

 

[brenndatomu]

If repaired correctly, he should be able to start it. Period.

Yup, just as simple as that...

 

[KenLockett]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Just got back from Advanced Auto and picked up a compression tester. Just for my peace of mind and as a matter of fact before I go back in going to check the compression.

 

[Highbeam]

To use it, full throttle and keep pulling to max out the reading.