I want to adjust my log splitter so it only handles up to 18" logs as that is the biggest I can use and to decrease the cycle time. Should I just make a steel block for the fixed end?
Now that is genius. A lot better than welding another plate to the splitter. Plus, who knows when you might want to split longer for a friend or relative, or for yourself after buying a new stove/burner.
Good point. I guess I failed to mention that since I have never left them on a cylindar very long. Around here they are mainly used if you have an implemt or 2 that needs a hyd. cyl. swaped between the 2 and cant make the necisary adjustments for depth control. I know of guys that got 5 gallon buckets full of them things.One thing to remember if you use one of those gadgets, Evilgriff.......if you are going to be storing your splitter for a long period of time (especially if it's not in a conditioned airspace), make sure you take that device OFF during storage time and retract the ram the whole way into the cylinder. That way, the exposed ram does not get rusty and pitted, which will eventually lead to an 'effed up' seal and a leaky cylinder....
Yes, it has an auto-detent.Does the splitter have an auto-detent valve on it currently?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_472_472
One thing to remember if you use one of those gadgets, Evilgriff.......if you are going to be storing your splitter for a long period of time (especially if it's not in a conditioned airspace), make sure you take that device OFF during storage time and retract the ram the whole way into the cylinder. That way, the exposed ram does not get rusty and pitted, which will eventually lead to an 'effed up' seal and a leaky cylinder....
Good call. I always return the cylinder when I am done using it. I guess the best thing would be to take these off when I am done.One thing to remember if you use one of those gadgets, Evilgriff.......if you are going to be storing your splitter for a long period of time (especially if it's not in a conditioned airspace), make sure you take that device OFF during storage time and retract the ram the whole way into the cylinder. That way, the exposed ram does not get rusty and pitted, which will eventually lead to an 'effed up' seal and a leaky cylinder....
The ones TSC sells are for 1 1/8 OR 1 1/2. Maybe speeco's are for the ram on your splitter? In any case they are aluminum so they wouldnt be hard to drill out with a good hole saw of the right size.OK so I was in town tonight and stopped at TSC and picked up a pack of those stroke control segments. But they are too small, dont fit on the ram
Thanks, I like that mod better than the spacers!
I think the stop should be placed as close as possible to the centreline of the ram. Down on the beam might cause the base shoe to tip up, putting pressure against the seal on the cylinder. If I had my druthers, I would put my stop pin above the ram by notching out the ejector and welding collars to put the pin through. I got lucky in so far as the play in the shoe is such that it does not lift the ram.Why not drill a 1/2" hole in the beam where you want the retract to stop and drop a half inch nut and bolt in??