I want to adjust my log splitter so it only handles up to 18" logs as that is the biggest I can use and to decrease the cycle time. Should I just make a steel block for the fixed end?
Log Splitter Stroke Adjustment
- Thread starter evilgriff
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swagler85
Minister of Fire
That would accomplish the goal but cause a problem. Your cylinder would push the wedge into that block. Splitters are designed to stop prior to the wedge and block coming into contact.
Butcher
Minister of Fire
Now that is genius. A lot better than welding another plate to the splitter. Plus, who knows when you might want to split longer for a friend or relative, or for yourself after buying a new stove/burner.
How do these work? I imagine they keep the ram from retracting all of the way. Tractor supply's link did not work for me. I found them at speeco, but no instructions.
Butcher
Minister of Fire
basod
Minister of Fire
Does the splitter have an auto-detent valve on it currently?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_472_472
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_472_472
One thing to remember if you use one of those gadgets, Evilgriff.......if you are going to be storing your splitter for a long period of time (especially if it's not in a conditioned airspace), make sure you take that device OFF during storage time and retract the ram the whole way into the cylinder. That way, the exposed ram does not get rusty and pitted, which will eventually lead to an 'effed up' seal and a leaky cylinder....
Butcher
Minister of Fire
Good point. I guess I failed to mention that since I have never left them on a cylindar very long. Around here they are mainly used if you have an implemt or 2 that needs a hyd. cyl. swaped between the 2 and cant make the necisary adjustments for depth control. I know of guys that got 5 gallon buckets full of them things.
Good call. I always return the cylinder when I am done using it. I guess the best thing would be to take these off when I am done.
swagler85
Minister of Fire
OK so I was in town tonight and stopped at TSC and picked up a pack of those stroke control segments. But they are too small, dont fit on the ram
swagler85
Minister of Fire
looking online at speeco they dont have any specs on size. And all the websites I have seen have the same segments size. Any thoughts
swagler85
Minister of Fire
Butcher
Minister of Fire
The ones TSC sells are for 1 1/8 OR 1 1/2. Maybe speeco's are for the ram on your splitter? In any case they are aluminum so they wouldnt be hard to drill out with a good hole saw of the right size.
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
swagler85
Minister of Fire
Hole saw would be pretty rough way to do that and if they are Alum. jam easy, boring out on a lathe would be a better choice, Course not everyone has a lathe to play with. Maybe an aquaintence with or access to or the local tech school, or local small machine shop. Might also check and see if any saw sharpening shops are equipped. Some of us are kind of crazy that way. You really do not want to mar up the ram, just like rust. nicks and such will wear your seals. These could also be made out of good solid hard rock Maple or oak blocks or several layers glued up and bolted together, bored out to fit ( real old school), gets the job done though and no worry of marring ram, still need to remove when not using)
velvetfoot
Minister of Fire
blades, you have the exact same splitter combo I have!
If splitting vertically, why not just cut a round to 4" or whatever and put it on the base.
I've used a piece of wood on the end of the electric splitter as well to good results.
If splitting vertically, why not just cut a round to 4" or whatever and put it on the base.
I've used a piece of wood on the end of the electric splitter as well to good results.
My HF splitter is modified quite a bit from its original condition. It does not go vertical ( tried that once or twice wasn't for me, but did make for more compact storage) It has an auxiliary hydro tank to eliminate the air entrainment problem caused by the location of the fill and return ports, Beam has been replaced with a much stronger structure, push plate on ram, thin wedge with a spreader behind. Wore the original valve out now sports a Prince unit. Cylinder, pump and Briggs motor are original along with the running gear and tank. All high pressure lines are now connected with High flow 45 deg. fittings, steel line was also replaced with hose. The unit can now be run all day in the summer without fear of overheating any components. In it's original configuration the cylinder would get so hot it would give you a second degree burn if you touched it. ( course in the winter you could warm your hands and dry your gloves at the same time on it) Now it can run all day and you can hold your hand on the cylinder at anytime.
velvetfoot
Minister of Fire
Wow, you went crazy with the mods. I don't have those skills, but I did take apart the cylinder because it was leaking; turned out the huge nut (with lock washer) was never tightened up at the factory. Some welds leaked on the tank and I had to have it welded, which is holding, knock on wood. Where did you put the auxiliary tank? I was looking around for a plan B if the welding didn't work. I mostly only split vertical. I have maybe 40 cords through it and otherwise seems to be working okay. I love the Robin engine.
Sorry for the hijack. I still will try cutting a large cookie and use that to save piston travel.
Sorry for the hijack. I still will try cutting a large cookie and use that to save piston travel.
Why not drill a 1/2" hole in the beam where you want the retract to stop and drop a half inch nut and bolt in?? Easy and you could even do a couple of holes if you wanted to adjust more incrementally.
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
I think the stop should be placed as close as possible to the centreline of the ram. Down on the beam might cause the base shoe to tip up, putting pressure against the seal on the cylinder. If I had my druthers, I would put my stop pin above the ram by notching out the ejector and welding collars to put the pin through. I got lucky in so far as the play in the shoe is such that it does not lift the ram.
Not all splitters have ejector arms. If you place the hole just to the side of the beam web it will work just fine. You would have to have a very loose fit shuttle for it to tip enough to cause trouble, but I suppose it could happen if it was very sloppy.
Note: most of the detente type valves are set at 600 psi (or around that) to release. Not a lot of force when compared to the "push" force.
Note: most of the detente type valves are set at 600 psi (or around that) to release. Not a lot of force when compared to the "push" force.
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