Log splitter tank flange/fitting?

[tebenhoh]

(Sorry, trying to do this on my phone. Orange tank with blue arrow is what I’m looking for, black tank is what I found for sale. Splitter is what I bought to rebuild - no specific model info; has 5.5 BS with a 16gpm pump, and 4x24 cylinder. I know it needs a smaller pump (or larger motor), and a larger oil tank.)

Greetings all, and welcome to another wood burning season!
So I found this for sale for $50:

But I don’t know what goes here… I assume I need a flange like this (blue arrow) for a suction line to the pump? Any ideas where to get one? I’ve searched and searched online; seems I’d have to find a parts diagram from a model which uses this setup. Does your log splitter tank use this… make/model, or size matching for a noob, please? Any comments or suggestions greatly appreciated! Cheers, Tom

 

[rwhite]

Is the black splitter the one your rebuilding? Is the something wrong with the tank on there? I've always heard those called 6 hole fuel flange. Would be easy to fab one up and put a pipe fitting on.

 

[salecker]

Yup build your own would be the quickest
1/2 hour tops and you are on your way

 

[tebenhoh]

Is the black splitter the one your rebuilding? Is the something wrong with the tank on there? I've always heard those called 6 hole fuel flange. Would be easy to fab one up and put a pipe fitting on.

The picture of the entire splitter is the one I’m rebuilding. The black tank only with spindles is for sale; nothing wrong with the existing tank, except it might hold a gallon - seems too small? Thanks for your info about the fuel flange.

 

[Jags]

I believe you may be underestimating the size of the original tank. Get its dimensions and do the math. You may save yourself a bunch of unnecessary grief.

 

[Bad LP]

It’s a bulkhead fitting.
Air tight is required or the pump will be cavitationing .

 

[tebenhoh]

I believe you may be underestimating the size of the original tank. Get its dimensions and do the math. You may save yourself a bunch of unnecessary grief.

I do need to measure the existing tank, thanks. I’m working off of specs that may not be real-world accurate; for example, most 16gpm pumps recommend a motor larger than 5.5hp. And most of my online research shows a tank size equal to the pump - 16gpm = 16gal tank. I realize that isn’t necessary but I was working on finding a tank of at least 3-5Gal + system capacity, to get me closer with room for air to vent and oil cooling. Do you guys think I should just run it as is? There isn’t a filter on it anywhere, either.
I just measured, it’s a 1 gallon tank (4.5”x5.5”x10”).
6 hole Fuel flange returns the best possible options, but nothing definitive. I haven’t found a bulkhead fitting yet that doesn’t require inside tank access for installation. I’m also watching eBay, etc for something I can make work.
I do appreciate all of your help!

 

[Jags]

That IS a small tank. You are correct that a 16gpm pump should have at least an 8 hp engine. There is a good chance that the pump has been replaced at some point.
It makes me wonder if the awkward pairing might not "kinda" work. The reduced peak pressure (heat) from the under powered engine might be ok with the small hydro tank but at a cost of reduced splitting pressure.
But I do understand your concerns with the current component pairing.

 

[tebenhoh]

That IS a small tank. You are correct that a 16gpm pump should have at least an 8 hp engine. There is a good chance that the pump has been replaced at some point.
It makes me wonder if the awkward pairing might not "kinda" work. The reduced peak pressure (heat) from the under powered engine might be ok with the small hydro tank but at a cost of reduced splitting pressure.
But I do understand your concerns with the current component pairing.

My plan is to use the existing 5.5 motor and cylinder (labeled Speeco, but no numbers), replace the pump with an 11gpm (the current 16gpm is a John Barnes 2 stage if anyone needs one), and find a larger tank. It will split as is, and the motor runs fine; I just don’t trust the current setup. It was sitting outside, covered and unused, for a few years, and will need hoses, too.
(I won’t be splitting anything I can’t lift from the bed of my truck, it fits in the cellar for storage, and after the rebuild I might have $500 in it.)
The axle tank seems perfect for the price, but leaves me with also remounting the motor and beam. And it’s a 3hr drive to go get it. A new pump and tank would be simpler - I don’t have a welder, or metal fab tools besides a grinder and a drill. Thanks for your input!

 

[Jags]

I wouldn’t consider a semi major mod with only a drill and a grinder in hand. Just one dudes opinion.

 

[tebenhoh]

I wouldn’t consider a semi major mod with only a drill and a grinder in hand. Just one dudes opinion.

👍🏻 Agreed!

 

[Corey]

You might also search for 'blanking plate', 'block off plate' or 'inspection plate'. I found a couple of hits, but none of the sizes seem to be compatible. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...t_id=100/category_id=173/mode=prod/prd100.htm It might be sized by the OD of the plate, or the bolt circle diameter (BCD) and either of those may be called out in inches or metric. Conversely, at $50 for that tank, + your drive/gas to go get it + plate/fittings + time to modify everything, you might just look for a new/more suitable tank. For less than $150, you could probably get a tank delivered to your door that would just work.

On the pump, you might try running it and see how it goes. A 16 gpm 2-stage pump will likely still drop down to 3-5gpm on the second stage. So depending on exactly how tough the splitting is, and in your typical wood, that might be enough. If you go to 11 gpm, your cycle time will increase by about 45%.

 

[tebenhoh]

You might also search for 'blanking plate', 'block off plate' or 'inspection plate'. I found a couple of hits, but none of the sizes seem to be compatible. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...t_id=100/category_id=173/mode=prod/prd100.htm It might be sized by the OD of the plate, or the bolt circle diameter (BCD) and either of those may be called out in inches or metric. Conversely, at $50 for that tank, + your drive/gas to go get it + plate/fittings + time to modify everything, you might just look for a new/more suitable tank. For less than $150, you could probably get a tank delivered to your door that would just work.

On the pump, you might try running it and see how it goes. A 16 gpm 2-stage pump will likely still drop down to 3-5gpm on the second stage. So depending on exactly how tough the splitting is, and in your typical wood, that might be enough. If you go to 11 gpm, your cycle time will increase by about 45%.

Thanks, Corey… I’ve tried a number of different search combos also, but as yours, nothing definitive. I did find a Red Gum splitter out of Australia that used a very similar flange, but no manual or part info. I think I’ll find a new tank, and go from there. I have to double check my measurements, this is the closest I’ve found to fit between the cylinder/beam and tire:

Hydraulic Reservoirs | Agri Supply

Hydraulic Reservoirs

www.agrisupply.com

It will require a bracket/mount of some sort since it’s longer than the width of my axle plate, but I can handle that part.
I like you’re idea to run it and see with the current 16gpm pump; I didn’t know if it would hurt the pump or motor. We don’t burn 24/7, and I get my wood sporadically through the year, so it’s not going to see the heavy usage as some here.

 

[Jags]

I would run it as is and see if works. Outside of heating the oil too much, you ain’t gonna hurt anything. If you can hold your hand on the oil tank, it is within operating temp.

 

[triptester]

The old splitter looks like a Didier they have been running fine with the 1-gallon reservoir for 40 plus years.
The opening on the larger reservoir is for a built-in filter or strainer on some splitters.

 

[tebenhoh]

The old splitter looks like a Didier they have been running fine with the 1-gallon reservoir for 40 plus years.
The opening on the larger reservoir is for a built-in filter or strainer on some splitters.

Thanks! I think you’re correct; I did an image search with “older model Didier log splitter “, and that’s exactly what came up - even found a guy on Arboristsite who rebuilt one with about a 3 gal. tank.
Also, I did find filter/strainers with a similar bolt pattern, as you mentioned, in my searches. At this point I’m going to replace the hoses and add a filter (which I was told was removed), and run it and see how it goes. I have a 2.5 gal air tank from a small air compressor I may retrofit for a tank just in case. I’m still not sure about the 16gpm pump, but we’ll see. 👍🏻

 

[Isaac Carlson]

I started out with a john deere 5, which is almost identical to the didier. I have since replaced the beam, tank, axle, valve, motor, and pump. The only thing original is the wedge. It is a completely different machine now and is much easier to use and move around.

Those little splitters were tough stuff, but it was a pain working down on the ground.

 

[tebenhoh]

I started out with a john deere 5, which is almost identical to the didier. I have since replaced the beam, tank, axle, valve, motor, and pump. The only thing original is the wedge. It is a completely different machine now and is much easier to use and move around.

Those little splitters were tough stuff, but it was a pain working down on the ground.

Thanks, Isaac… it’s good to hear again that these splitters ran and worked well. I’ve also considered raising the working height (another reason for the “axle tank”?), but I’ve read pros/cons of both; less lifting for lower and easier on the back higher. I’ll be weighing my storage options also, if I change it too much it may have to stay outdoors - not terrible, but not preferred.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

I love the better working height. My back got screwed up about 20 years ago, so working bent over is not good for me.

Here is mine in current form.

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[tebenhoh]

I love the better working height. My back got screwed up about 20 years ago, so working bent over is not good for me.

Here is mine in current form.

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If mine will split that we’ll, I’ll be happy. I doubt I’ll ever split as much as you have stacked since we don’t burn 24/7, but enough to make good use of a decent splitter. I’ll have to see about fitting a 4-way wedge!

 

[Isaac Carlson]

If mine will split that we’ll, I’ll be happy. I doubt I’ll ever split as much as you have stacked since we don’t burn 24/7, but enough to make good use of a decent splitter. I’ll have to see about fitting a 4-way wedge!

There's about 20 cord stacked off camera and another 20 to cut/split/stack.

Most splitters will split pretty well if set up and adjusted right. Geometry is a big deal on a splitter. Those big clunky wedges are hard to push through anything and require high tonnage. My splitter does 90% of the wood at less than 7 tons. It will go to 20 tons, but it's rare to get above 12 tons.

 

[tebenhoh]

There's about 20 cord stacked off camera and another 20 to cut/split/stack.

Most splitters will split pretty well if set up and adjusted right. Geometry is a big deal on a splitter. Those big clunky wedges are hard to push through anything and require high tonnage. My splitter does 90% of the wood at less than 7 tons. It will go to 20 tons, but it's rare to get above 12 tons.

Yep, that’s a LOT of firewood! I may have 4-5 cord split, stacked, and tarped, but that’s easily 2 seasons worth for me depending on the weather.
Good to hear about the tonnage; I was going to be happy if mine would push 15-20 max, so I think I’ll be good.

 

[Ashful]

Now that you know the brand, it'd be interesting to see what size pump they originally put on the thing. 16 gpm is an awful lot of pump for a 5.5 hp engine, unless the engine has an extremely conservative rating. How many cc's and what configuration is the engine? Assuming a 160 cc flathead, you should probably downgrade it to 11 gpm.

Or... do what I did, and just replace the engine with something bigger.

 

[tebenhoh]

It just so happens I did; downgrade the pump… I just posted this today:

Log Splitter (Speeco?) Rebuild UPDATE

Original post here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/log-splitter-tank-flange-fitting.189420/ My rescued-from-the-woods (when I bought it, he said that’s where it had been sitting the past 3 years) splitter is finally finished! Our little portable air compressor crapped out; now it’s a...

www.hearth.com

Thanks for the insight, Ashful. I doubt the pump and engine are/were original parts when this was new. Possibly everything else is - beam, valve, cylinder, and axle plate.
The engine in a Briggs model 110412, Intek 190 is the sticker on the fuel tank; OHV single cylinder side shaft, 2006 by the date code. Previous owner stated the engine would stall out while splitting - bad valve, pump, or hard wood, I suppose. Either way, it seems to be running fine now; and we’ll, the stupid oil leak. Cheers!

 

[Isaac Carlson]

The kick down and relief pressure need to be set for the engine.