Look what I found when I tore my old fireplace out.
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![[Hearth.com] Look what I found when I tore my old fireplace out.](/talk/data/attachments/9/9093-1092950b48f833b623919a683fe07a47.jpg?hash=deHeDYLAU8)
ricardo loma said:
Thats what I was tyhinking. The triple wall and the 2 foot of air void around the pipe all the way to the top.....I think I can get away without doing the insert and still be safe. I'm going to use a century stove, the small one they sell at home depot.
Hogwildz said:
It's a century stove (see above) and I plan on maintaining all the clearances the manf. recommends. I plan on putting down some pressure treated plywood (1" thick) then 2 layer of durock, then morter and hearth stones that are about 2" thick. The walls will be the same except for the lack of plywood.
I called a few places around here to ask them about it and they all turned on the sales pitch. I don't doubt a liner is a great thing, but I'm starting to think I can get by with this and still be plenty safe, get a good draft also. Do you guys agree?
What kind of liner could you put inside a 6" pipe? Aren't the liners basically 6" pipes themselves?
Jay777 said:
Thats true and my stove says it must have a 6" flue so I don't think liner is in my future. Thanks!
well two other vendors told me I would be ok if I used a double wall pipe to connect the stove to the chimney pipe. But they did both say it might be hard to find the right sized parts to connect everything as it should be. Whats the gurus opinions on that? Thanks again guys.
If you knew the fireplace manufacturer, you could try and research what piping they spec'd, then you could see if that piping manufacturer is still around and then get the remaining components to finish at top & below to stove.
Or do the same if pipe manufacturer is known and still around. Technically, the problem lies here....... each pipe manufacturer is tested to code with a system made of their components connected together to complete the system. To add another manufacturers components to another's, most likely voids the code compliance because it was never tested that way.
But, if you can find the right components that fit to get it run to the stove, it could be done. Not sure how a double wall would match up to a triple wall.
You could always tear that stuff out and run a complete proper set up. Its your house and family, your decision.
Sometimes when thinking dollars, you have to stop and think is any potential hazards worth a few hundred dollars?
Note* The comments & suggestions in this post are not necessarily condoned nor the views of Hearth.com
UGG UGG
Or do the same if pipe manufacturer is known and still around. Technically, the problem lies here....... each pipe manufacturer is tested to code with a system made of their components connected together to complete the system. To add another manufacturers components to another's, most likely voids the code compliance because it was never tested that way.
But, if you can find the right components that fit to get it run to the stove, it could be done. Not sure how a double wall would match up to a triple wall.
You could always tear that stuff out and run a complete proper set up. Its your house and family, your decision.
Sometimes when thinking dollars, you have to stop and think is any potential hazards worth a few hundred dollars?
Note* The comments & suggestions in this post are not necessarily condoned nor the views of Hearth.com
UGG UGG
That's pipe which is proprietary to the manufacturer who made your fireplace. I would be VERY hesitant to line a chimney like that.
Also, what is referred to as triple wall pipe, generally is triple wall class A. If in fact, that's a class A (HT) chimney, it will be marked as such. Simpson Duravent makes triple wall pipe, but has a ceramic blanket insulation and then an air space.
Also, what is referred to as triple wall pipe, generally is triple wall class A. If in fact, that's a class A (HT) chimney, it will be marked as such. Simpson Duravent makes triple wall pipe, but has a ceramic blanket insulation and then an air space.
Corie said:
Get back to work
All this time to be wasting on the www, don't you have a design to make, like a 7CF fireboxed stove?????????
Hogwildz said:If you knew the fireplace manufacturer, you could try and research what piping they spec'd, then you could see if that piping manufacturer is still around and then get the remaining components to finish at top & below to stove.
Or do the same if pipe manufacturer is known and still around. Technically, the problem lies here....... each pipe manufacturer is tested to code with a system made of their components connected together to complete the system. To add another manufacturers components to another's, most likely voids the code compliance because it was never tested that way.
But, if you can find the right components that fit to get it run to the stove, it could be done. Not sure how a double wall would match up to a triple wall.
You could always tear that stuff out and run a complete proper set up. Its your house and family, your decision.
Sometimes when thinking dollars, you have to stop and think is any potential hazards worth a few hundred dollars?
Note* The comments & suggestions in this post are not necessarily condoned nor the views of Hearth.com
UGG UGG
Valid points. The stove was a pre way and they filed bankruptcy in 89 I think. I could hardly find any info on the fireplace let alone the pipe. I do want to be safe, but what is frustrating is that the salesmen I run into aren't usually straight forward unless I press them. They always try and "up sell" and it's hard to get an unbiased answer. I just wish a guy would come out and say, "the liner would be better, but you would be fine (or not fine) with what you have". I found a reducer of sorts on the current fireplace that takes it from a 10 to the 6 so I saved it in case I may get to reuse it. Thank you for your reply.
Corie said:
What do you mean "hesitant to line a chimney with that"? You lost me there. I'm not wanting to line anything if I don't have too and this can be connected with a double wall chimney pipe to the stove. I will look for the ht mark. Thanks!
Triple wall Class A pipe usually has one pipe insulated from the other on the inner 2 pipes. In other words: 6" pipe, insulation, 8" pipe, 10" pipe (or what ever the actual diameter of the pipe is). I'm guessing (and it is just a guess) that the pipe you have is not class A. It should say on it somewhere.
it was made by preway and it is "made for residential and buildings" whatever that means. I am trying to get a part number. It says UL on it of course and it says that you must maintain a 1 inch clearance from combustibles if that helps anybody?
It must be listed to UL103, which is the standard for high temperature, all fuel chimney pipe to even consider hooking it to a solid fuel room heater (new wood stove). Also, I wouldn't drop a liner, even an insulated liner down a proprietary chimney system like that. In my humble opinion, that pipe should be pulled out and replaced with new, class A chimney pipe.
And Hogz, I'll have you know I work 8 - 5 and made that post, technically, after work was over. (Although I was at work, waiting for an emissions test to conclude).
Corie said:And Hogz, I'll have you know I work 8 - 5 and made that post, technically, after work was over. (Although I was at work, waiting for an emissions test to conclude).
How's the backyard burn lab coming along?
Right now it's the Harley repair and upgrade shop, the Jotul rebuild area, the Gravely Model L repair area, and the Savage 99 checkering region.
Hahah
Hahah
Corie said:
Don't gimme excuses, just get my jumbo sized stove built damnit
!Looks like your shed needs an addition or two.
You still riding that girliy bike,,, er I mean sporty?
tlhfirelion said:
i think what corie meant was you need to first off find out if the pipe you have is ul 103 or ul 103 HT it must be ul 103 HT in order to properly vent the fw240007 century you referred to the simpson he referred to is triple wall with a blanket between the inner and middle walls. thats HT pipe , what you have may be the ul-103 which is rated at 1700 degrees , not the required 2100 degree rating of a ul listed epa unit like the century
stoveguy2esw said:
OK, I'll look for that number tomorrow and see if I can find it. I've been tearing out my old fireplace and stone wall all day and I'm frigin wore out. I'm hittin the hay. Thanks guys talk with you tomorrow!
Hogwildz said:Corie said:
Don't gimme excuses, just get my jumbo sized stove built damnit
Looks like your shed needs an addition or two.
You still riding that girliy bike,,, er I mean sporty?
Ya know it's a good thing I'm not sensitive about it! haha
Actually......I just added a bunch of stuff to the sporty but really, if the wife (in 16 days) would start making some real money, I'd buy a friggin Night Train or Street Bob tomorrow. Money is just too tight right now...
Trust me, you don't want to hook anything up to that preway garbage pipe. Your ONLY safe and legit option is to tear all that out and replace it with a UL listed Class A system UL103HT.
You might be able to sell the preway pipe on eBay, it is a hot item and hard to find.
You might be able to sell the preway pipe on eBay, it is a hot item and hard to find.
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