Looking for advice on fireplace insert installation

[esh21167]

I am beginning the process of looking for a wood burning fireplace insert for an existing masonry chimney and came across this forum. Lots of great info on many topics! Can anyone out there offer some input on the following topics.

I am going to use flexible SS liner in the existing chimney. The fireplace is located on an outside wall so is wrapping the SS liner in insulation a necessity?

The damper opening is only about 4.5 inches wide. Is it acceptable to 'ovalize' the 6 inch diameter liner to fit through the opening or should an adapter be used? That would create two more joints, 6 from the insert to oval through the damper and back to 6 and up the chimney.

What about insulating around that damper opening? I've seen a hi-temp insulation. Do you just lightly pack it in the gaps?

My hearth currently only extends 13" from the fireplace opening. With an insert there would only be about 4-5" of hearth in front. I was reading a thread about hearth pads, extensions, etc. and someone suggested placing a stoveboard type extension in front of the insert. I like that simple idea, but is that acceptable per code since it is not permanent?

Thanks to all for any input.

Eric

 

[webbie]

As to the hearth extension - I think it is prudent to attach even a temporary board. This can be done in some ways which make it less than permanent, but yet make certain you don't kick it out of place.

As to the extension - also keep in mind that the R-value of this is affected by whether your hearth is raised or not. If it is raised, then you usually don't need as high of an R-Value, meaning any non-combustible may do (stone piece, etc.). If the hearth if flush to the floor or close to that, then you should consult the stove manual for R-value required.

As to the lining and insulation, the basic story is this. If the chimney is already up to code then you don't need the insulation. But it never does any harm and always does good (warmer flue, better draft, etc.). If the flue has problems, then the insulation is usually needed to bring it up to proper spec.

The biggest reasons not to use insulation are that it sometimes does not fit properly (smaller flues) and, of course, budget reasons. Otherwise it is certainly the best job, especially in cold climes.

You can easily ovalize the pipe through the damper - in my experience it works fine down to about 4" or so.

As to the damper block-off, please see the article about making a sheet metal block off - it is in the "popular" article links in my sig.