Looking to go Chisel..............

[WoodMann]

Well, semi- chisel actually- might go full blown chisel ultimately. Thing is, when I look around on internetland I find things like 50 guage, so much pitch, this and that. What does all this mean? And how do I know what I have? BTW I'm packin' a 42cc Craftsman with 18" bar...............
Thanks

 

[computeruser]

Your craftsman probably is running 3/8" pitch Low Profile chain, which means that you're more or less stuck with the semi-chisel variety. There aren't any true round- or square-filed chisel chains in 3/8"LP. Pitch refers to the spacing between the rivets, and gauge refers to the width of the chain drivers and, therefore, the width of the groove in the bar. Take a look at the Oregon chain website for more thorough, illustrated information on chain types, pitch/gauge/etc., and whatnot.

Assuming that you're running 3/8"LP, Oregon makes some faster cutting chains of this type. 91VX is a good choice, as it dispenses with the bumper tie straps between the cutters. It will cut a bit faster, but will clear chips much better than the 91VG "safety" chain. Ditto on Stihl PM, and Bailey's WP stuff.

 

[WoodMann]

Thanks- I'll check that out..............
Edit- oh yeah, I sharpen with a 5/32 file. And I stumbled upon the 72LGX as well...........

 

[savageactor7]

^ doesn't that require a 7/32? regardless I wouldn't be afraid to try different chains..if you talk to a dealer he'll probably ask the kind of wood you cut...do you drag the logs through the mud etc. And they can make a good recommendation...but it all depends on what you're cutting and conditions you apply the chain....

...just happen to see you're in NM... just guessing but if there's a lot of sand in the wood you cut that's a factor too. Now I drag logs out to cut in the spring and they get full of mud...but I cut 'em that way cause I want to make production...but that requires that I'm always touching up my points..but I can live with that cause it's way easier than hosing the mud off the trunks.

But if you're dragging logs and picking up little pebbles as well as sand there is no chain made for stones...you're just going to have to re sharpen the chain when it requires it. Mud and sand will dull a chain...just like cutting wood will but stones and little pebbles will wreck havoc with a chain and it will start cutting crooked <------ that work looks F-ed up. What I'm trying to say is that the chain won't cut square.

 

[WoodMann]

Don't drag'em, just cut down the dead standing which I'm told that this veritable seasoned wood is hell on saw chains. And that's what I'm finding out; it seems that the chain dulls all too quickly. So I wonder if there's a better chian/ blade out there for this environments as prolly the stock chain I have is for everything but good for nothing........................

 

[savageactor7]

^Woodman I cut dead wood all the time in the winter...so what, dead may be a tougher cut that the naturally lubricated living trees but you should still be able to make good production.

You may have a 'safety chain'...which is what you'll get at a big box store. That's OK for a home owner removing trees that are threatening the eaves but that's not a chain for a serious wood cutter.

Talk to a dealer and get his recommendations for a serious wood cutting chain... and bring your chain saw cause it's important to know how many grooves in the drive sprocket...and do yourself a time saving favor and buy a couple of chains with the correct sharpening file. the operating manual will tell you everything you have to know.

Also if you have those spiked bumpers on the bar if I were you I'd take 'em off...with a sharp chain you should be making good, square cuts with half a trigger pull. Those spiked bumpers add up to saw abuse real quickly...most operators use them incorrectly to leverage their cut's...that's not what there for.

 

[jebatty]

To my knowledge a 5/32 file is for 3/16 chain and a 7/32 file is for 3/8 chain.

 

[WoodMann]

Hmm- maybe that's why Im not getting the results I think I should...........

 

[oilstinks]

So what are the dawgs for then? I cut all dead stuff also and have trouble keeping the chain sharp. Those low kick-back chains i have found dont cut the dead oaks real well.

 

[savageactor7]

Jetbatty you're probably correct sorry to confuse things when I saw the chain it sounded like a # I used years ago that required a 7/32.

Anyway woodman can check the box his next chain come in and that will tell him the correct file to use.

aandabooks knows all about the different chains if he stops in he'll recommend a good cutting chain for ya.

 

[aandabooks]

Woodman, while they are both referred to as 3/8 chain there is actually a difference of .010 between the rivets. What you will be running on your saw is lo-pro chain. The width of the drivelink is .050. So therefore, you need to run 3/8 lo-pro on that saw. If you were to put 72LGX on that saw and run it, you will destroy the bar. (I know this because I have done it and then I did the research) So, what you need to buy is Oregon 91 series chain, Stihl PMN or WoodlandPro (Really Carlton) from Bailey's 30LP. Those are your choices. They all sharpen with 5/32 file.

7/32" files sharpen full 3/8" chain. In the case of Stihl chain, they recommend 13/64" files.

I run full 3/8" on my Stihl, Oregon 91VX on the Craftsman and 20LP on the Poulan. The three places I order all of my chain from are: Bailey's, Amick's, asc_auto_parts on ebay.

When I add the MS180 I'm planning to get in August, I'll have to add 90VS which is 3/8" lo-pro .043 gauge with 45 drive links to the lineup. I'll be getting that saw with a 12" bar.

 

[WoodMann]

10-4, thanks guys. Y'all been a huge help....................

 

[jtb51b]

When I add the MS180 I'm planning to get in August, I'll have to add 90VS which is 3/8" lo-pro .043 gauge with 45 drive links to the lineup. I'll be getting that saw with a 12" bar.

I have the Stihl MS192 and love it, that little bitty chain is extremely fast cutting due to the narrow kerf.. Good luck with yours, I imagine you'll be as satisfied as I am..

Jason

 

[aandabooks]

I've got a bunch of ATV/deer trails to clear out on some property I bought in the spring. Get rid of some of the small stuff, so I can get the ATV in to cut up the big stuff and haul it out. The MS180 seems like just the right small saw for that kind of work. Small, light and nimble.

 

[Ken45]

I've got a bunch of ATV/deer trails to clear out on some property I bought in the spring. Get rid of some of the small stuff, so I can get the ATV in to cut up the big stuff and haul it out. The MS180 seems like just the right small saw for that kind of work. Small, light and nimble.

Yes, the small Stihls are great for trail work.

I do a lot of trail maintenance on state bridal trails and the small saws are much better than hefting the bigger ones around.

Ken

 

[jebatty]

I operated a Stihl 026 Pro for years with an 18" bar -- a little too much for this saw, but that's all I had. After buying a Husky 372 with an 18" bar, I switched the Stihl to a 16" bar. Then I had fun shortening all of my 18" chains to 16" chains. Got a chain breaker and rivet setter from Bailey's. The cost of that was much less than buying new chains. The Stihl on the 16" bar is now a great, handy saw for limbing and small work.

 

[WoodMann]

To be honest with ya, when the saw is sharp it cuts almost too easy. Just wish it would stay sharp longer..............